PVC joint fix? or redo plumbing?

[afuel]

I ran into this issue when I discovered leaks from my UV sterilizer fittings. I found a YouTube video showing how to use a shop vac to apply suction to the PVC plumbing which can then help draw in primer and cement to fill the gaps.

I documented this in my build thread here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/s...eefer-xl-425-build.358990/page-4#post-4631292

I’ve also done this with success after having one leak in the middle of a completed section that I didn’t want to completely redo

 

[Douglas grace]

so I hard plumbed my RS reefer 750XXL on my main return after a month to 6 weeks of figuring out how to do this and ordering parts I have 2 leaks...SIGH

i'll admit I did not use primer as it gets all over and I though for low pressure systems like we have its not needed. but now I have a cpl leaks and have yet to test my manifold.

I tell you plumbing this it turning it to a big PITA .

i know the BEST way would to redo the whole thing, and I prob. would if I did not have to order parts online not much of anything where I live. HD is 200 miles away RT.

~so my questions is do you really need primer? I applied to both side put in and twisted.

~any way to fix the leak with out redoing the whole thing?? I did apply some silicone between a union and an elbow that was leaking every small space gonna look like crap but I have spent more $$ and time on this plumbing that I care to admit.


thoughts I am bummed and over this dang plumbing...

Use a no hub or firm coat it a rubber sleave with stainless steel bands that tighten around pipes. Just make sure you get the right size. Since the pressure of the pump is so low campered to actual house water lines it should work np

 

[George Lopez]

I would just redo the leaks there are ways to remove glued joints with heat so that you can reuse the fittings

 

[George Lopez]

 

[Douglas grace]

I would just redo the leaks there are ways to remove glued joints with heat so that you can reuse the fittings

What I'm saying is make up the sections that u need to replace glue them let them cure for 2 hours then cut out the bad sections that u made the replcements for then use then no hub to attach the new pieces. Since you dont need glue for a no hub the down time on your tank would be like 10 minutes

 

[Mjrenz]

Just my 2 cents on pvc pipe (I work with pvc and cpvc pipe daily in my line of work) . Building codes don't require the use of primer on air conditioner condensate drains or cpvc pipe when yellow cement is used. The trick to a leak free joint is to swipe the dauber several times around the pipe and inside the fitting, if the pipe has writing on it you should see it smear just from the glue. Make sure to fully seat the pipe in the fitting and hold it until it stays together, I like to wipe off excess glue with a paper towel for a neater job as well. If done like that it should hold at least 60psi of pressure in as little as 30 minutes

 

[Philip Chin]

at home depot or lowe's, there a product for pvc for wet applications. i believe it is blue pvc pipe cement. good luck

 

[Mjrenz]

at home depot or lowe's, there a product for pvc for wet applications. i believe it is blue pvc pipe cement. good luck

It works, I use it often. It does set quicker though so you have less time to reposition a fitting

 

[afuel]

Most building codes do require the use of primer hence the purple color so the inspector can tell it was used. However there is a clear primer that I use for personal stuff like sump plumbing

 

[Mjrenz]

I haven't had a single building inspector in 18 years require primer on a condensate drain, drain pipes and flue pipes yes, but not condensate drains. Using primer will help but it's not necessary

 

[jeffberens]

I had a small leak in a fitting that was out of stock from Red Sea when I was doing my plumbing and researched and found a product that worked perfectly to stop the leak.

I intended to use it as a temporary fix until the part shipped and I could redo my manifold, but I haven't bothered because it has worked perfectly.

Here is a link to what I used. It is called plast-aid. I would suggest watching a video of how it works on youtube before you order it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DFHLUA/ref=pe_385040_215884960_TE_dp_i1

 

[AlexG]

I have a method that I have used once to fix a PVC joint leak on a drain line. I used a router with a straight bit to chop up some PVC sheet into PVC shavings/dust. I then poured PVC cement over the PVC shavings/dust and mixed it together to form a thick paste of melded PVC. I then applied this mixture to the PVC joint that was leaking (make sure the PVC joint area is clean and primed first). It is a messy method but it did work at stopping the leak. I would not use this method on a pressure line but it did work great for my drain line which is 3"PVC.

 

[Devaji]

I had a small leak in a fitting that was out of stock from Red Sea when I was doing my plumbing and researched and found a product that worked perfectly to stop the leak.

I intended to use it as a temporary fix until the part shipped and I could redo my manifold, but I haven't bothered because it has worked perfectly.

Here is a link to what I used. It is called plast-aid. I would suggest watching a video of how it works on youtube before you order it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DFHLUA/ref=pe_385040_215884960_TE_dp_i1

interesting I am assuming once dried its inherent and reef safe?
how many joints did to do with the 1.5 OZ pkg?

 

[xaflatoonx]

How about getting this? primer and glue in one - AND clear

 

[Devaji]

How about getting this? primer and glue in one - AND clear

That was my original plan but I just went to ACE and go some cement there. there good reviews on amazon for the stiff tho. with waiting weeks for all the plumbing parts to come in I just wanted to get it done,

 

[jeffberens]

interesting I am assuming once dried its inherent and reef safe?
how many joints did to do with the 1.5 OZ pkg?

To be honest, I have no idea if it is reef safe. I assume like an epoxy, that once it cured and it was rinsed, it would be fine. I could be wrong. I used it to fix a small leak, so I'm not sure there would be any significant exposure anyway.

I only needed to repair 1 joint, but I only used a portion of the 1.5 oz package. It doesn't take much.

I was very skeptical that it would work and remain intact long term, but after I saw the finished repair which kind of looks like plumber's putty but really hard, I no longer have any concerns.

 

[Sleepydoc]

Plus one on the clear primer. People seem to grab that purple crap for some reason.

Purple primer is the most common, primarily because if you are working commercially and having the work inspected they inspector uses the purple to know that the joints were properly primed. It’s hard to say for sure what happened. I’ve actually never had a joint leak and had plenty of joints that I didnt’ prime. PVC cement is essentially the same as primer, jsut with some solids dissolved in it as such, I’ve never understood what ‘primer and cement in one’ meant. Like flipper said, the primer helps soften the surface of the PVC. Typically priming isn’t necessary for our purposes.

One trick I’ve read about (but haven’t used myself) was to take the pipe, seal the exits and hook up a vacuum to one end so you create a vacuum inside, then apply pvc cement to the leaking joint. The vacuum will suck the cement into the leaking joint (at least that’s the theory.) Like I said, I haven’t done it myself, but it’s worth a shot.

 

[shoggoth43]

There is also JB Water Weld or one of the reefsafe underwater coral epoxy products. Roll it out into a long strip and then mash into the spot to be repaired. It probably won't look good but is another option.

 

[Devaji]

There is also JB Water Weld or one of the reefsafe underwater coral epoxy products. Roll it out into a long strip and then mash into the spot to be repaired. It probably won't look good but is another option.

yeah I thought about JB water weld.

 

[Devaji]

so my options are the vacuum fix method, plastic -aid or jb water weld or just redo the whole dang manifold siphon line for a few leeks.
I can put the RS pipes that came with it back on for now, but I have a leaky bulk head I gotta figure out 1st...sigh