PVC required for sump plumbing?

Antegon

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 19, 2018
Messages
57
Reaction score
86
Location
Chicago
What state or country do you live in
Illinois
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I am in the first 1/3 of a 75g build. Single corner overflow with herbie set up, return over the side of the back and out the corner flow (only two holes drilled, changed durso to herbie and gonna rerun return.) 29g that I’m making into the sump.
I’m gonna have enough pvc to run down the main drain to the gate valve, and to run up the back of the tank and elbow down to the lock line return, but is there a huge benefit I’d be missing out on if some of the rest of the plumbing was done with tubing instead? Thanks!
 
The issue with tubing is it can get pinched or kink. It can even suck itself closed.
 
I have used tubing of different varieties for many years.
Depending on where it is used depends on what type.
Permanent locations of changing temperatures, i use semi rigid washing machine tubing.

For a sump you are going to want something colored. The leaking light from the fuge, display, ambient window light; can grow algae in a clear tube. Not the most attractive sight on a tank. I like corrugated tubing like eshopps uses on their sumps.
Always use clamps on every connection.
Now you do lose some control with flex tubing. Harder to clean everything, if you install a valve it restricts flow as well as creates a tight spot for detritus to collect, nature of tubing connections. With pvc, unions are easy to take apart, clean one section reattach. This is not the case with tubing. Where a barb connection can be a pain or nearly impossible to dissemble after long periods of time depending on tubing type.
 
"is there a huge benefit I’d be missing out on if some of the rest of the plumbing was done with tubing"

No.

As long as the tubing is appropriately sized, it's fine. Many people have been using tubing of various sorts for this purpose for many years. It works. In some situations, it works far better than trying to hard line everything. My latest system includes a short piece of 1.5" silicone tubing, from the return pump to a barb in my hard return line assembly. It's there to insure ease of pump maintenance, and to help isolate any pump vibration. It sure wasn't done to save money... larger diameter silicone tube isn't cheap.

I try and avoid running clear tubing through lit areas, it tends to grow algae. Don't use stainless or other metal clamps, even where it should always be dry. Clamps are a must, but buy the ratcheting plastic ones. BRS sells them, but it's one of the products that they're overly fond of... Amazon has them for far less.

I wish the aquarium industry would catch up to the plumbing industry, and start selling equipment fitted for PEX pipe. Stronger and more flexible than PVC, easy to work with, available in a rainbow of colors. Push connect fittings that make disassembly a breeze, and are certified for behind wall construction... One day, perhaps.
 
Good to know, thanks!

My overflow lines are 1” from below the bulkheads, and was thinking a 3/4” return line. I’ll keep up the research on the tubing options y’all mentioned.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top