Q&A - water chemistry & additives

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Guys, we want to invite you to contribute in creating our product guide! If you have any questions on our water chemistry (https://aquaforest.eu/en/product-category/water-chemistry/) products feel free to join our "Questions & Answers" thread.
We'll update the thread regularly and create here a knowledge base for all the reefers!

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During preparing Component 1+, after a day or so I often get a brown residue on the bottom of the container. Is it ok?
Brown residue is the excess of iron, there’s no need to remove it from the container.

When making my own Component 1+ 2+ 3+ with the dry Calcium, Magnesium and KH Buffer, I was wondering if the homemade mixed solution is exactly the same as the premade solution.
You can mix your own Component 1+2+3+ using:
Solution 1: Calcium + Strong A + Strong B
Solution 2: KH Buffer + Strong C
Solution 3: Magnesium + Reef Mineral Salt + Strong K

Anyone having issues raising alkalinity with aquaforest kh plus? Or does it just gradually rise? Its at 7 right now was told that is on the low side or is it ok?
We recommend to keep KH levels between 6,5-8,0. Please, do not raise KH more than 1.0 dKH/day.
 
Why can't i buy Life Source in Australia?
(That's the place next to new zealand)
 
Why have I read instructions for Af balling that I must have 3 containers:
1. Ca + Mg;
2. Kh
3. Reef Mineral Salt
Plus Strong components
And know at certain places (ex: previous post) Mg it’s being mixed with Reef Mineral Salt?
 
The earlier recipe for components used to have Mg in component 1 but now the current method recommends it to be mixed in component 3. This gives you more freedom to control all major 3 components individually if needed.
 
I’m dosing much more Kh than from Ca and Reef Mineral Salt thus emptying Strong C way before all the remaining Strongs (A, B and K)
Since AF don’t sell only Strong C, can I add to the Kh container AF Iodum and AF Fluorine instead of Strong C?
 
Question about calcium reactor vs balling. The AF balling process includes mineral salts as the third dosing part. I use a calcium reactor and was wondering if I am missing out on anything by not dosing the mineral salts.
Reef Mineral Salt is required to use with Calcium Chloride and Sodium Bicarbonate. If you are running Calcium reactor there is no need to use Reef Mineral Salt.

I just started to use Components 1+ 2+ 3+, but Ca readings are 519. Should I still dose all three Components equally or reduce the dose of Component 1+ which says it is Calcium?
We advise you do keep on administering equal doses and in order to raise one of the parameters use the needed additive: Calcium, Magnesium or KH Buffer.

Can I dilute your Calcium, KH Buffer and Magnesium with less water in order to make stronger solution? If yes, what is the limit? The reason is my tank doesn’t evaporate much, and if I use your recommended dosage, I will add much water to my tank.
Yes, it’s possible to make stronger solutions of Calcium and Magnesium. In order to keep it safe, we recommend preparing doses maxiumum 2 or 3 times stronger. Solution of higher concentration may clog the pump. KH Buffer is a saturated solution, therefore you can’t get higher concentration.
 
I'm am dosing the ABV&E on alternating nights. Ex: A&V Monday and B&E Tuesday. When dosing, should I wait in between each product to insure each product will be effective or does it matter?
 
I’m dosing much more Kh than from Ca and Reef Mineral Salt thus emptying Strong C way before all the remaining Strongs (A, B and K)
Since AF don’t sell only Strong C, can I add to the Kh container AF Iodum and AF Fluorine instead of Strong C?

Bump
 
I'm am dosing the ABV&E on alternating nights. Ex: A&V Monday and B&E Tuesday. When dosing, should I wait in between each product to insure each product will be effective or does it matter?
As long as you can determine that polyps are extended and the corals are in normal feeding response, I would stay the course. This too is determined by coral size, as well as nutrient levels tested in the aquarium. Adding supplements when nutrient levels are already available is redundant to dosing, that said, these additions are designed for aquariums running low nutrient levels, supplying foods, aminos, and vitamins. Dosing when nutrients are already available could cause issues, so not advised when algae is present. The products are quite concentrated, so go easy, 1/2 dose for young aquariums and smaller corals, up to recommended dosing for more established aquariums and larger corals. Hope that makes sense :) Cheers
 
Thanks but what I'm asking is if after dosing the first product of the night should I wait a few minutes before I dose the second product or does it matter?
 
Thanks but what I'm asking is if after dosing the first product of the night should I wait a few minutes before I dose the second product or does it matter?
You don't need to but if you wish you can.
 
Thanks but what I'm asking is if after dosing the first product of the night should I wait a few minutes before I dose the second product or does it matter?

it doesn't matter, sorry for any confusion :) I dose right after one another.
 
1) With a new tank with mixed frags, at what point should you start dosing equal amounts of 1+, 2+, and 3+? Right now, I just dose Alk to maintain 8 dkh, as Cal and Mg are consistent with 10% weekly water changes. Stated differently, what change in Alk are you looking for in order to begin dosing in equal amounts? My concern is that my Cal is already high at 490.

2) Can you dilute the -NP pro with RODI to enable dosing? I have the doser ready version but I have only been able to find one seller, BRS and it is often out of stock (it is right now and has been for awhile). Is there another seller I can use? I note that others who sell -NP pro don't sell the doser ready version (Premium Aquatics, Dr. Foster Smith). Is there a reason it is so hard to find?
 
TessGlo,
1. The balling system is designed to be dosed in equal parts, the Reef Mineral Salt is what helps to balance the minerals. Each part plays it's role. Please address your system so that each of the 3 bottle set are dosed equally. This balance will be achieved, but takes some time, please be patient and it may be useful to purchase and side dose KH Plus, along side of equal part dosing to help keep alk stable, that or use only it until you can get the CA in normal range. With 8 alk, I would shoot for 420 CA, and 1300 MG.

2. Yes, you can dilute with RODI, this will work. I do not however have the formula others have used, perhaps taking that question to the FB page would render more response. The main reason why it is so hard to find is due to popularity and sales. Most users of the program prefer controlling themselves, as you still have to dose Pro Bio S daily, which is able to be automated, but not easily. Pacific Sun makes a drop by drop doser, as well as magnetic stirrer, which would both be required, and depending on ambient temperature, you could also require refrigeration. That said, if you have to daily drop one, most at this point are not inconvenienced by the other bottle having to be dosed.
Cheers
 
I’m dosing much more Kh than from Ca and Reef Mineral Salt thus emptying Strong C way before all the remaining Strongs (A, B and K)
Since AF don’t sell only Strong C, can I add to the Kh container AF Iodum and AF Fluorine instead of Strong C?

Bump!
 
Thanks for the answer!
I know you recommend equal dosage and I’m trying to get there. But in the mean while I still have unbalance to compensate.
 

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