QT Best practices

  • Thread starter Thread starter arvind
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Thanks to both of you @melypr1985 and @Humblefish. I called Andy and left him a VM. Didnt return my call. Guess he is too embarassed to to call me back.:D

Back to my QT. I am having a hard time keeping the ammonia at zero in one of the QTs. Even after a large water change, the ammonia alert doesnt change color. I also verified it with API testing kit. I also added Bio-spira in this tank and it didnt make a dent either. Should I try 100% WC? Can I remove the fish, replace it with freshly mixed saltwater, add bio-spira and then add the fish? As a reminder, I have put the copper treatment on hold trying to make the tank stable on Ammonia.
 
Which QT is having the ammonia issues? What is the bio-load in the tank and what filter(s) are you running on it?
 
QT 1 is stable on ammonia - Proceeding with copper today.

QT 2 is not stable. Changing water every day but the ammonia is still present. I have a hang on filter. I do have two large tangs+2 small tangs+3 wrasses. High Bio-load potential. I am feeding every other day. Feeding just what they can eat in couple of minutes. This the tank that I want to do 100% WC, if that helps. Here is a pic:

wbuGRDd4omCpH0u29cHwoGJwF9l2MZ9vv5F_BFpQYrDrxrNWV3PeXNA54NVliA2NHAC4l_W4gzWI2xPgbKQMEGf9kOC_8iJi7TNO19n2LOpafAXfQzoI5N6ZPcjAixRMmRJlLvlEg6N9v-LAqHJIbNLGRz9L5jrXH6pXZQ9cNEG0zCSesTiwdHd5Xjk8lq07STTd0UPpEU84kJ5CY2O9mx9kVMMCtz48e527Aro1m0b7Bf7Vn9nO3Hrrcf15rm4tbdi09VRWjokvcs96nk-xOqTdORo9LzvoioR0Y1szaQ2OerHjChHg51iC2a0k57KMYFmXd6rshW8jijxJwcOvv10tJplJeNy3UKVqNoLeMjD4c4nc39jq7Xtb_u7aC_mQ1Epf1smPmqWKgJGIi-yVcI0kVTbWjHU5xklhReEtDGt_TEiqYsNyyhYEI5aQimMvzURSkGreq2aQ6ghn7HFlZFM31vzZG5MZrIJK2hB5qNjGODZ1vPHYZ6Pdx95PV40z1cWY3EYieIvBBDnQeWK4L6NneyczSrtvraW8fcu3TpVw2exrFRksvjQ6z-lSoEv_NCEnCysDglvg4h0SS_N1e87yKdflKZV5=w1741-h980-no


I know you suggested I remove that rock. Planning to do it before I begin Copper. Leaving it there because the hippo likes to hang in there (you can see it).
 
QT 2 is not stable. Changing water every day but the ammonia is still present. I have a hang on filter. I do have two large tangs+2 small tangs+3 wrasses. High Bio-load potential. I am feeding every other day. Feeding just what they can eat in couple of minutes. This the tank that I want to do 100% WC, if that helps. Here is a pic:

Is QT2 the 30 or 40 breeder? I'm assuming the 40 due to the high bioload. Exactly what HOB are you using? Make & model?
 
It is a 30 breeder. I am using Aquaclear Power filter. I just realized it is only rated upto 20 gallons. Should I replace it with a bigger filter?
 
It is a 30 breeder. I am using Aquaclear Power filter. I just realized it is only rated upto 20 gallons. Should I replace it with a bigger filter?

I would use at least an AC70 on a 30 or 40 gal QT. You can always turn it down if it's too much flow, but the larger sponge provides more space for the nitrifying bacteria to colonize. I only use AC50 on a 10-20 gal QT.
 
I would use at least an AC70 on a 30 or 40 gal QT. You can always turn it down if it's too much flow, but the larger sponge provides more space for the nitrifying bacteria to colonize. I only use AC50 on a 10-20 gal QT.

Got a AC70 and I added it to QT2. Now I have both filters running. I will remove the smaller one once the second one is colonized. Did another WC. I will wait for one more day and see if ammonia drops.

Btw, Andy from Fritz called back today. Extremely nice guy. Profusely apologized for the mix ups. One thing I didn't appreciate was that he is still thinking this is a Test kit issue. Anyway, guess the issue is settled for me now.
 
Ammonia continues to creep up to 0.25 and I am still doing daily WC. Should I try 100% WC and see if it improves? Thinking of removing all fish from QT2, use freshly mixed saltwater and add the fish back again. What do you all think?
 
Ammonia continues to creep up to 0.25 and I am still doing daily WC. Should I try 100% WC and see if it improves? Thinking of removing all fish from QT2, use freshly mixed saltwater and add the fish back again. What do you all think?

I would dose one of those "bacteria in a bottle" products (Bio-Spira, Seachem Stability, Dr Tim's Nitrifying Bacteria) to give your bacteria levels a boost. Pour it directly over the sponge of your new AC70, and let it settle for an hour or so before turning the HOB back on.
 
An update. Second Week in QT. I started copper treatment (coppersafe) only on Saturday. I used half the dosage on Sat and the remaining half yesterday.

Today I found this on my blonde naso:

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Any idea what this is? Should I be worried?
 
Could be black ich. Which is treatable with prazipro. A freshwater dip would confirm and provide relief. Of course, if you plan to treat for flukes anyway, doing that will cover this as well.
 
Could be black ich. Which is treatable with prazipro. A freshwater dip would confirm and provide relief. Of course, if you plan to treat for flukes anyway, doing that will cover this as well.

I did treat him with Ruby Reef Rally (75 minutes) before adding him in the QT. Should I do that treatment again after a freshwater dip? Or there a different treatment for flukes?
 
I did treat him with Ruby Reef Rally (75 minutes) before adding him in the QT. Should I do that treatment again after a freshwater dip? Or there a different treatment for flukes?

I haven't tested acriflavine (Rally's primary ingredient) on worms; so for now prazi or formalin is the treatment to use for black ich. However, I'm not so sure that is indeed black ich on your naso. A FW dip would confirm, as exposure to that should cause some of the black dots to drop off. Also, why does the area around his pectoral fin look red?
 
I dont think the fins are red. Probably due to the shake during the picture was taken. Here is a video:


I will do a FW dip. It is in copper already. I am reading that copper and prazipro doesnt go well together. I also have Kanaplex handy. Not sure if that would help.
 
After the FW dip, he looks much better to me:

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W6-KDNb-AoTdE5CBvEFQHsG8urs-_wGcMi6q9yk8oXvqaBQS9l9tbiaVLd4vP1c60RLV-nwI3ldysRdvNDdxsClAod0d3eTV5OC57olS1Aeyh_NOV85bmLJ8bTPDTMK3ayYRaplscX0XB81SqSFCJswYET3exUR90wKdXLyxCPfeG5k6BB1UaRRPenXTAy7973cNUsLC__aSaHF7ySFolrodPKSgExBDgQCZq3UEgbt-xyBddREL1hf6c5C6ggIcD-u402Zf0v3C9ixVfs7c_NOHv2oRKWh72aeguQt7P0yDtoN__tAETH-WT-PBuvZ6xnIW1fXnvpzst5Gu2ZRtyC2RZLMpJxq17hMDCC8lX25VX-vROgfO7_4tmSkAe1kV_lxibtMlIBkpHLpq_xCL2_vXDNd5CT2FSlIiLEZ-3ydx1K-C8hiofXGE7IPEHSQ8Ph7M06OK74TlAnIRbzlc0hmg9y9O5mLQ4gxxjykViwLQBQ5tXKh5HqgO9Z0Va4hBQbXArRFEz6OJBksGGCyldCtZzHxvgjrNypfVB8h2WYmepQgh1GLfNuPnWv2nyaXomVvmnEwh73Gfi8lMSN8IPIcWp9itSyNK=w1741-h980-no


Some spots still remain it looks like. What can be the next best step?
 
Yes it did.

I would go ahead and mix Prazipro with copper then. The main thing you need to watch out for is a bacterial bloom (cloudy water). If this happens and you notice the fish's respiration rapidly increase, be ready to do a large WC/run carbon. Most of the times it doesn't happen, but better safe than sorry.
 
I added Prazipro as per the directions. The marks are still visible on the Blone Naso. How long it takes for it to disappear? Or this is something else?

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I added Prazipro as per the directions. The marks are still visible on the Blone Naso. How long it takes for it to disappear? Or this is something else?

Are you referring to the dark areas over his ventral ribs?
 

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