QT in reverse order?

JoJosReef

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Current QT protocols start with copper, followed by Prazi. Is there a reason you could not do prazi/metro/focus first, then copperpower? Just wondering, because I'd like to QT in a tank with full rocks and sand first, then perhaps transfer to another tank for copper or just use copper in the same tank with sand/rocks (understanding that the sand/rocks are throwaway afterwards). Thanks!
 
Current QT protocols start with copper, followed by Prazi. Is there a reason you could not do prazi/metro/focus first, then copperpower? Just wondering, because I'd like to QT in a tank with full rocks and sand first, then perhaps transfer to another tank for copper or just use copper in the same tank with sand/rocks (understanding that the sand/rocks are throwaway afterwards). Thanks!
You can go prazi but unless you see significant signs of flukes, the most important thing you want to avoid is ich and velvet, why we start with copper
 
I have just always started with copper because that is what was suggested to me but don't know why you couldn't do it the way you stated
 
Current QT protocols start with copper, followed by Prazi. Is there a reason you could not do prazi/metro/focus first, then copperpower? Just wondering, because I'd like to QT in a tank with full rocks and sand first, then perhaps transfer to another tank for copper or just use copper in the same tank with sand/rocks (understanding that the sand/rocks are throwaway afterwards). Thanks!
The trouble is that protozoan diseases can kill fish much faster than flukes will. If you dose prazi first, you risk letting a protozoan disease get started. Then, it is much more difficult to cure it once it gains a foothold.
 
The trouble is that protozoan diseases can kill fish much faster than flukes will. If you dose prazi first, you risk letting a protozoan disease get started. Then, it is much more difficult to cure it once it gains a foothold.
How about wrasses, particularly sand sleepers? I'd wager more die in the first couple of days from failed acclimation than protozoan disease, but then again, that's just a wild bet. It wasn't until I set up a "landing pad" tank with natural scape and sand before I could get (per-QT'd) leopard wrasse to survive long enough to make it into my DT. So I suspect getting them comfortable and eating is a critical step for increasing their odds of survival.

Would giving them a week of observation and feeding before starting copperpower make sense, or is the risk of parasites just too high? Uronema also has me worried with wrasses.

Thanks!!
 
You are likely right that shipping kills more wrasses than ich. Although, medicated or not, the fish still has to get shipped and acclimated.

I've had good luck QTing halichoeres wrasses with a cycled 20 gallon that's bare bottom with a Tupperware of sand.

Letting fishes start eating before medicating isn't a bad idea. I have done this on my last couple of additions.

As for Prazi or copper first, it would matter if you are dealing with velvet. Otherwise, probably not a difference either way. I like to go from full strength copper into the display. So Prazi followed by copper works for that. Now, copper in a qt with sand or rocks is difficult. You don't have to throw out the rocks afterwards, but you would have to measure the water's copper concentration daily, if not more often, as those will absorb copper.
 
How about wrasses, particularly sand sleepers? I'd wager more die in the first couple of days from failed acclimation than protozoan disease, but then again, that's just a wild bet. It wasn't until I set up a "landing pad" tank with natural scape and sand before I could get (per-QT'd) leopard wrasse to survive long enough to make it into my DT. So I suspect getting them comfortable and eating is a critical step for increasing their odds of survival.

Would giving them a week of observation and feeding before starting copperpower make sense, or is the risk of parasites just too high? Uronema also has me worried with wrasses.

Thanks!!
Wrasses generally don’t tolerate copper well but some are ok at 2.0 level, however the issue often is copper starts to take effect at 2.0
An alternative to copper for wrasses is chloroquine phosphate or hyposalinity which can be stressful to certain fish
 
Wrasses generally don’t tolerate copper well but some are ok at 2.0 level, however the issue often is copper starts to take effect at 2.0
An alternative to copper for wrasses is chloroquine phosphate or hyposalinity which can be stressful to certain fish
I thought about chloroquine phosphate, but no way to measure levels like copper and I'm imagining some will get absorbed by the rocks/sand. Risk of over or underdosing. Happy to hear alternative ideas!
@Jay Hemdal do ylu know about CqP in a tank with sand and rock?
 
Current QT protocols start with copper, followed by Prazi. Is there a reason you could not do prazi/metro/focus first, then copperpower? Just wondering, because I'd like to QT in a tank with full rocks and sand first, then perhaps transfer to another tank for copper or just use copper in the same tank with sand/rocks (understanding that the sand/rocks are throwaway afterwards). Thanks!
The copper is started first since the diseases treated with copper are or can be more lethal than lets say flukes.
 
I thought about chloroquine phosphate, but no way to measure levels like copper and I'm imagining some will get absorbed by the rocks/sand. Risk of over or underdosing. Happy to hear alternative ideas!
@Jay Hemdal do ylu know about CqP in a tank with sand and rock?

Here is my article on chloroquine:

It will not cause any issues in regards to being absorbed by sand and rocks like copper does, but it will be deadly to all invertebrates, as well as algae.
 
Here is my article on chloroquine:

It will not cause any issues in regards to being absorbed by sand and rocks like copper does, but it will be deadly to all invertebrates, as well as algae.
Thanks Jay, I'll look into it and see if wrasses are more or less sensitive to Cq than to copper.
 

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