QT min size and other questions

[siniang]

Hi,

I'm still learning, so please forgive me if my question is stupid. I'm currently having a 40GB with two fish, I do not have a QT. I was planning to get a smaller tank which can function as a QT if needed (e.g. before adding new fish), but don't really know what to look for. Within the next few months I'm hoping to add two more small damsels to my DT and upon recommendation from forum members, I want to quarantine them first (which I did not do with my first two fish). Would 10QT be enough? I don't want to spend a fortune and am checking craigslist, but availability is fairly limited where I live. Or should I have a 20G for QT?

Also, do QT need constant and cycled water or can I fill it on a need basis? Substrate?

Thanks

 

[vector824]

No stupid questions here! It's actually a very good question, QT is a must. Last week my Wrasse developed parasites and is in my QT right now.

I have a 20g that's just bare beside a HOB filter and cheap little heater. Got most of it from Facebook. Get an ammonia badge and Prime water conditioner and just watch it close. I do leave it full when not in use, and do a 50% water change if I have to dump a fish in for an emergency. You can add a sandbed if you want and/or LR from the display to help with biofiltration.

Here's the heater I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OvwnBb6JA41PM

Seachem Prime 500ml: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00025694O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0ywnBb7FBQXGK

Seachem Ammonia Alert: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255R5G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KzwnBb3KNW71S

 

[Gools]

My Q tank is a 10g that I found with a free sign on the curb! After the fish come out of it, I clean/disinfect it and put it away. I leave a small sponge or filter floss in my main tank sump for when my next new addition comes, then pull out the sponge and throw it in my hang on filter. When I'm done they go in the garbage as they are very cheap!

 

[Instigate]

Here is a great write up on QT process: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

A 10 is fine for most small fish but more is better, the more water the easier it is to maintain water quality. A couple small damsels would be fine in a 10 gallon. I generally use a 20g long for most fish(I buy small). But I do have a 40G for larger fish or fish that just need more room. It would be best to QT in a cycled tank but you can get away with adding some sponge that has been sitting in your DT for 2+ months, using water from your DT and adding live bacteria(I recommend Dr. Tim's or Bio-Spira). But regardless be on top of your ammonia readings and it's always a good idea to double check your ammonia alert badge with a regular test kit. More than once I've had the ammonia alert badge say all is well then get a reading with the red sea kit. If I get any amount of detectable ammonia I do a large WC. Substrate depends. I tend to prophylactically treat with copper and prazi so no substrate in my QT tanks as it can absorb and release the medications. If you're doing just observation then rock and sand would be fine.

Meds to keep on hand: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/medications-to-keep-on-hand.213574/
Dos and Don'ts: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-dos-and-don’ts-of-quarantine.203898/
Disease Index: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-disease-index-pictorial-guide.285708/
Treatment Options: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/treatment-options-index.247573/

And if you have questions about possible symptoms you're seeing there are many extremely knowledgeable people that can help you in this subforum: https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/fish-disease-treatment-and-diagnosis.771/

 

[lion king]

A properly sized and cycled qt is paramount. If you try the instant cycle tricks some advise, you'll find it doesn't work. Properly cycle your qt as if it were your display. A 10g would be fine for a couple of damsels, but a 20 long would give you more flexibility.

 

[Instigate]

A properly sized and cycled qt is paramount. If you try the instant cycle tricks some advise, you'll find it doesn't work. Properly cycle your qt as if it were your display. A 10g would be fine for a couple of damsels, but a 20 long would give you more flexibility.

There is no question that a cycled qt is ideal but you can't say a skip cycle doesn't work. You definitely need to watch the ammonia especially the first week but there is no doubt that the bottled bacteria products help to reduce cycle time.

 

[PatW]

I have seen people use 5 gallon qt. Ok for one or maybe two small fish. Obviously, the bigger the better. I have a 29, but I have a much larger display tank than you have. A 10 should be good for any fish that is appropriate for a 40.

 

[USMC 4 LIFE]

A 10g QT in your case would be fine since your DT is only 40g and wouldnt be appropriate for larger fish, hence no need for a big QT. However, as it was mentioned once before having a larger QT allows you to keep parameters in check and allows for more wiggle room when dosing medications.

Cycling a QT is incredibly easy. Simply take a seeded sponge from your DT and place it in a HOB filter in your QT. You can also use DT water for the QT.

Oh and DO NOT use Prime in your QT when performing water changes. Someone in the second or third post incorrectly recommended it. Doing such will make your water toxic when mixed with medicines like copper.

 

[lion king]

There is no question that a cycled qt is ideal but you can't say a skip cycle doesn't work. You definitely need to watch the ammonia especially the first week but there is no doubt that the bottled bacteria products help to reduce cycle time.

I say it doesn't work because of the high percentage of people who end in disaster; when they pull a sponge from a sump and put a fish in a qt tank thinking it's a auto -cycle. Time and time again I see fish die in qt because of improperly cycled qt. I wish people would stop these quick and simple solutions that don;t work. Cycle the darn tank and you'll be much happier, the fish will be much happier. So much more work and chances for failure when you have to so carefully monitor ammonia, being ready or even make daily water changes or more.

2nd to @USMC 4 LIFE, prime plus copper equals death.

 

[Instigate]

I say it doesn't work because of the high percentage of people who end in disaster; when they pull a sponge from a sump and put a fish in a qt tank thinking it's a auto -cycle. Time and time again I see fish die in qt because of improperly cycled qt. I wish people would stop these quick and simple solutions that don;t work. Cycle the darn tank and you'll be much happier, the fish will be much happier. So much more work and chances for failure when you have to so carefully monitor ammonia, being ready or even make daily water changes or more.

2nd to @USMC 4 LIFE, prime plus copper equals death.

No doubt you have to pay close attention if you don't properly cycle the tank. I wouldn't suggest just relying on a sponge but the sponge with the DT water plus adding Dr.Tim's(for a few days would be great) along with close attention can get you through without hurting the fish. But I suppose there are plenty of people that wouldn't be able or just wouldn't be proactive enough.

/Here's a thread I should have had in my first post: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ammonia-control-in-a-hospital-tank.296119/