QT questions from a first timer

[FishyFish]

Hi, I have a tang being shipped that will arrive tomorrow. I have a QT set up already and I thought I knew what to do but now that I have a fish coming I'm feeling less confident. If anyone could help me out with a few questions I'd be forever grateful!

1: My QT was set up and fully cycled about a month ago. It has never had anything in it, it's just been running empty and I add ammonia every once in a while to feed the bacteria. Other people seem to use fresh saltwater though. Do I need to mix fresh water and add some live bacteria or do you think the water that I have is okay?

2: My QT is 10g and the bristletooth tang that's coming is listed as medium size so 2-4". Is 10g too small for just a few weeks? I can go out and get a bigger QT if necessary. He'll be going into a MUCH bigger DT eventually, I'm only worried about the QT size.

3: Assuming he comes in looking perfectly healthy, should I still give him preventative meds? And if so, how long should I wait before starting them?

4: Are there any other meds I should have on hand? Here's what I have:
Copper powder
Seachem Cuppramine copper
Seachem Prime
API General Cure
I ordered Kanaplex but it won't be here until next week
Also have API copper test kits and a Seachem ammonia alert badge

 

[ngoodermuth]

1: My QT was set up and fully cycled about a month ago. It has never had anything in it, it's just been running empty and I add ammonia every once in a while to feed the bacteria. Other people seem to use fresh saltwater though. Do I need to mix fresh water and add some live bacteria or do you think the water that I have is okay?

The water is fine, a water change never hurts but not really necessary as long as ammonia is 0 and water is clear, and not murky.

But, have you asked the supplier for the shipping salinity? Often comes lower than the standard 1.025-1.026 we keep our tanks. It’s best to match your QT to the salinity the fish is arriving in, and avoid any type of drip acclimation with shipped fish.

Regardless of what the supplier tells you, when he arrives take a small pin or needle and poke a tiny hole in the bag below the water level, to collect a few drops of water to double-check. I’ve been told a fish was coming in 1.018... and arrived in hypo 1.009!

After you’ve gotten a few drops to test, put a little piece of tape over the hole and float the bag to temp acclimate while you adjust your QT as needed. Once it’s all set and temp matched, just remove the fish (colander works well to remove the fish without getting it caught up in a net) and drop it in!

2: My QT is 10g and the bristletooth tang that's coming is listed as medium size so 2-4". Is 10g too small for just a few weeks? I can go out and get a bigger QT if necessary. He'll be going into a MUCH bigger DT eventually, I'm only worried about the QT size.

Should be ok for the duration of QT, especially if it’s only 1 fish.

3: Assuming he comes in looking perfectly healthy, should I still give him preventative meds? And if so, how long should I wait before starting them?

This is open to debate. Personally, I do treat all fish. Tangs are probably “safer” to run observational only since they tend to present symptoms of parasites fairly quickly... but remember depending on the fishes immune system, could harbor parasites in the gills un-noticed.

It just depends on how much risk you are willing to take... meds can be tough on some fish, but parasites can be devastating to an entire tank so that’s why I choose to treat everyone.

4: Are there any other meds I should have on hand? Here's what I have:
Copper powder
Seachem Cuppramine copper
Seachem Prime
API General Cure
I ordered Kanaplex but it won't be here until next week
Also have API copper test kits and a Seachem ammonia alert badge[/QUOTE]

If you are planning to treat with copper, I’d use Copper Power since you have the API test kit. Cupramine would need a different test kit as it is ran at lower levels than the API will read.

Therapeutic is 2.0 with copper power, but should ramp it up slowly over several days to avoid sensitivity. In a single QT, you’ll want to run it for 30 days at therapeutic. If you have a second QT, you can transfer him to the other tank after 14 days (without lowering the copper first).

PraziPro is another good one to do preventatively, after copper, for flukes. You’ll dose twice, 5-7 days apart. It CAN be done with copper, but I generally try to keep them separate since dosing together can cause bacterial blooms which can become problematic.

I’d also consider de-worming with General cure + focus soaked food. This can be done while copper is running. 1 scoop to 1 scoop of focus per 1 tablespoon food, fed for 10 days at least twice daily.

These are my minimum recommendations... there’s also brook and uronema to consider (I treat with metroplex in the water during copper treatment to account for these) but again, there’s different opinions regarding prophylactic QT so it’s ultimately up to you.

 

[ngoodermuth]

This is a process very similar to mine... except I generally give a few days of acclimation before beginning treatments. But, many have been successful following this routine:

My Current QT Process
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...ds/My-Current-QT-Process.483371/&share_type=t

 

[AcroNem]

As long as you have places for it to hide (PVC pipes, T's, elbows) a 10 should work if it's around 2". It's small but it'll be in there about a month. As long as your ammonia is reading 0 you're good. As for treatment, I'd recommend copper as well, copperpower is going to be the easiest for you to use out of the types available, but I'll still recommend you purchase the hannah checker for copper testing. Treatment period for copper should be 21 days, making sure it doesn't drop below therapeutic level (1.75-2ppm for copperpower) but make sure it's eating and doing well once it's in your quarantine before starting any treatment. I think you're good to go, just make sure you ramp up copper slowly over a couple of days and don't be afraid to stop treatment and go with a different medication if it doesn't respond well.

 

[ngoodermuth]

Just had another thought, looking at your med list... If you don’t know already, DON’T use Prime with copper.... it will kill the fish.

 

[FishyFish]

@AcroNem Thanks! I went by the hardware store and picked up a few pieces of PvP just in case the decorations that I have now are too small for him. I'm really hoping he's closer to the 2" mark but unfortunately they weren't able to tell me when I called earlier. Thanks for the advice on the copper too, I'll look into a Hannah checker.

@ngoodermuth Thank you SO much for taking the time to answer all of my questions! It was really helpful, I feel much more confident about the whole process now.

I picked up some focus, Prazipro, and Metroplex today. I did contact the store that's shipping my tang before I posted, he'll be in salinity much lower than what I had it set at so it's a good thing I called! I have a fresh RODI bucket on hand and I'll also be making a smaller bucket of very high salinity just in case. I'm going to do some tests on the QT in a few minutes just to double check parameters, I'll do a water change if they're off. Pretty sure I'm all set so thanks again!

I have one more related question if you don't mind. The fish in my DT were never QTd or medicated, unfortunately I didn't think it mattered when I started in the hobby. I'll be upgrading my DT within the next month and I'm wondering if it would be worth removing the inverts/rock/sand from my current DT and treating it before I move the fish to the new DT. Everyone is perfectly healthy, they've never had any issues but I can't be sure that I don't have something like uronema in the tank. The last fish was added to my DT almost 2 months ago. Do you think it would be worth treating the DT while I have an opportunity to do so?

 

[ngoodermuth]

What's your current fish list?

It wouldn't necessarily be a bad idea, if the plan is prophylactic treatment of all fish going forward. Then again, QT is not without risk either so I think it might depend on what fish you have now, and what fish you hope to have in the future.

For example, if you would like to have a group of chromis in the new tank... probably don't want uronema coming over with the current fish. But, if you have chromis or anthias in your tank now, doing well... it's unlikely that uronema is there.

This is an option as well:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/freshwater-black-mollies-vs-marine-fish-diseases.312166/

 

[FishyFish]

What's your current fish list?

My current stock is just two clowns and a longnose hawkfish. I have no plans to add any more clowns chromis or anthias, but I do plan on adding some wrasse. I think I read somewhere that they were more susceptible but I could be wrong.

And thanks for linking the molly thread, I hadn't heard of that before. Neat!

 

[FishyFish]

@ngoodermuth @AcroNem or anyone else who can help!!

Well my fish is here, but the salinity in his bag is higher than my tank. Luckily I had some fresh 1.035 water on hand so I can fix this. How long should I wait to test again after adding new saltwater to give it a chance to mix? Also how long can he safely stay in the shipping bag? It's still unopened, but I did prick it to take a water sample and tape it back up. Right now he's been temp acclimating for about 20 minutes.

 

[Frtdrmrose7]

@ngoodermuth @AcroNem or anyone else who can help!!

Well my fish is here, but the salinity in his bag is higher than my tank. Luckily I had some fresh 1.035 water on hand so I can fix this. How long should I wait to test again after adding new saltwater to give it a chance to mix? Also how long can he safely stay in the shipping bag? It's still unopened, but I did prick it to take a water sample and tape it back up. Right now he's been temp acclimating for about 20 minutes.

What is the salinity in his bag vs your qt?

 

[FishyFish]

What is the salinity in his bag vs your qt?

Bag was 1.022 and my tank was 1.017. I added some saltier water so I think I have that corrected. Unfortunately I rechecked the nitrites in the tank and they're around .25-.50, blegh. I've replaced like 60% of the water between last night and today I was sure that would fix it, but no. There's 0 ammonia but the nitrites worry me. Think I should add some Prime to the tank before I let him out of the bag? Or should I leave him in the bag for a while longer and do another 20% water change?

 

[ngoodermuth]

@ngoodermuth @AcroNem or anyone else who can help!!

Well my fish is here, but the salinity in his bag is higher than my tank. Luckily I had some fresh 1.035 water on hand so I can fix this. How long should I wait to test again after adding new saltwater to give it a chance to mix? Also how long can he safely stay in the shipping bag? It's still unopened, but I did prick it to take a water sample and tape it back up. Right now he's been temp acclimating for about 20 minutes.

As long as you haven’t opened the bag you are good. But, as a general rule it’s much easier for them to go down and salinity then up so if yours is only a few points lower than the bag it won’t hurt him.

 

[Frtdrmrose7]

Bag was 1.022 and my tank was 1.017. I added some saltier water so I think I have that corrected. Unfortunately I rechecked the nitrites in the tank and they're around .25-.50, blegh. I've replaced like 60% of the water between last night and today I was sure that would fix it, but no. There's 0 ammonia but the nitrites worry me. Think I should add some Prime to the tank before I let him out of the bag? Or should I leave him in the bag for a while longer and do another 20% water change?

I would do a larger WC if possible

 

[Frtdrmrose7]

As long as you haven’t opened the bag you are good. But, as a general rule it’s much easier for them to go down and salinity then up so if yours is only a few points lower than the bag it won’t hurt him.

Did you see his Nitrites? .25-.50

 

[ngoodermuth]

My current stock is just two clowns and a longnose hawkfish. I have no plans to add any more clowns chromis or anthias, but I do plan on adding some wrasse. I think I read somewhere that they were more susceptible but I could be wrong.

And thanks for linking the molly thread, I hadn't heard of that before. Neat!

I think your biggest question is going to be whether those clowns and hawk are managing ich without symptoms. I expect you’ll find out pretty quickly when you add the tang...

 

[FishyFish]

I think your biggest question is going to be whether those clowns and hawk are managing ich without symptoms. I expect you’ll find out pretty quickly when you add the tang...

Yeah that's exactly what I'm worried about But I do have the option of adding the tang to my new DT after he's out of QT, medicating the current DT, then moving my clowns and hawk over after they've been medicated.

I'm considering trying the mollie thing but I want to do some more research first to make sure that mollies are happy in saltwater long term, and that they'll mix well with the other fish I plan on adding in the future. I have at least a month to research all of this and decide though. Thanks again for your input!

 

[ngoodermuth]

Did you see his Nitrites? .25-.50

Just caught up, yes I would do as close to 100% change as you can. Do you have bio Spira or Dr. Tims?

 

[FishyFish]

Just caught up, yes I would do as close to 100% change as you can. Do you have bio Spira or Dr. Tims?

No but I can go get some. How long do you think the tang will be okay floating in the bag?

 

[FishyFish]

I ended up replacing like 70% of the water in that tank. The nitrites are still around .1 which I don't like but I thought at that point it would be better to get him out of the bag. Added some Fritz bacteria to the tank, I'll keep monitoring ammonia/nitrite and do another water change tonight if need be.

Unfortunately he is a lot closer to 4" than he is to 2". I'm going to need bigger PVC pipes for him to hide in... Gorgeous fish though, he's swimming around and seems healthy so far. As far as I can tell the extra hours temp acclimating didn't hurt him at all. Phew! Think I'm going to give him a day or two to get used to the tank before I start chunking meds in there.