QT tank nitrate level

[Red2143]

I'm Two weeks into a QT tank with copper safe. Ammonia looks fine according to the seachem badge but nitrates are starting to increase. How high can they safely go? Can I go the full 30 days without a water change? It's one mccosker wrasse in a 10 gallon.

 

[sc50964]

I'm Two weeks into a QT tank with copper safe. Ammonia looks fine according to the seachem badge nut nitrates are starting to increase. How high can they safely go? Can I go the full 30 days without a water change? It's one mccosker wrasse in a 10 gallon.

Don’t worry about WC unless you have an uptick on ammonia, since nitrate is the byproduct after ammonia is already broken down.

 

[fishyjoes]

but nitrates are starting to increase. How high can they safely go?

Nitrate doesn't really harm fish. I think there is some debate that high levels (like 60+ ppm) over long duration can cause problems, but I don't know if it's true.
The main problem with too much nitrate is that it can lead to algae or affect coral growth, but you don't care about that in a relatively short lived QT tank.

Can I go the full 30 days without a water change?

When I QT I still do weekly water changes just to help make sure the tank is clean. It may not be needed, but I like to know I'm doing everything possible to have a healthy environment.
If the fish's health declines and I haven't been doing water changes I have an extra variable to factor in - is it poor water quality or disease?
If I'm doing water changes, the chance of poor water quality is less likely to be a factor.

 

[exnisstech]

Ammonia and copper level are the only thingd I have ever tested in QT. Never really even thought about testing anything else.

 

[sc50964]

Ammonia and copper level are the only thingd I have ever tested in QT. Never really even thought about testing anything else.

Also got to check ph.

 

[exnisstech]

Also got to check ph.

Probably not a bad idea but I don't even check PH in my displays. It's something that I can't really control without it being a hassle and I don't need another thing to fret over. Everything seems happy so I guess it's good

 

[threebuoys]

Increase in nitrate is not a problem. Ammonia is, but given the increasing nitrate, your QT appears to be cycled. You should use a test kit to confirm ammonia, the badges are often not as reliable.

Unless some other compelling reason such dirty water occurs, you should be able to go the full 30 days copper without water change. If you do change the water, be sure the water you add has the same copper concentration as the water you remove. Also, do not use any chemicals to combat nitrate. That will lead to false readings for your copper testing.

 

[sc50964]

Probably not a bad idea but I don't even check PH in my displays. It's something that I can't really control without it being a hassle and I don't need another thing to fret over. Everything seems happy so I guess it's good

I’ve read low ph could cause copper to be more toxic than the level that we intend to set it at. Let’s ask the expert @Jay Hemdal

 

[Indymann99]

Always test QT for pH, Ammonia, and copper/other if using. Ammonia is the most important as QT bio filter is generally not established or compromised with meds. I like the SeaChem badges for this. Like said above I would not bother testing NitrAte in QT.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I'm Two weeks into a QT tank with copper safe. Ammonia looks fine according to the seachem badge but nitrates are starting to increase. How high can they safely go? Can I go the full 30 days without a water change? It's one mccosker wrasse in a 10 gallon.

It is essential to monitor ammonia in quarantine and with a reliable kit. The badge is great when new but is also for freshwater and loses its accuracy in a medicated environment sitting in water full time.
If unsure, simply take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
Ive suggested to many and they are shocked at what readings actually are at.

 

[sc50964]

Always test QT for pH, Ammonia, and copper/other if using. Ammonia is the most important as QT bio filter is generally not established or compromised with meds. I like the SeaChem badges for this. Like said above I would not bother testing NitrAte in QT.

I’ve experienced the scenario where the seachem badge shows safe but the API ammonia test kit shows anywhere from 0.25 to 0.50 ppm. Wonder if someone else has experienced this and can chime in.

 

[exnisstech]

I’ve experienced the scenario where the seachem badge shows safe but the API ammonia test kit shows anywhere from 0.25 to 0.50 ppm. Wonder if someone else has experienced this and can chime in.

I'm far from an expert but I believe the api always read high. My understanding from reading is they test more than one type of ammonia? I've been using salifert for ammonia.
My badges have been reliable in my experience but I normally start with a new one. My QT is only set up when needed.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

I’ve read low ph could cause copper to be more toxic than the level that we intend to set it at. Let’s ask the expert @Jay Hemdal

That's true for ionic copper in freshwater systems, but not in marine systems. I don't think it is the pH per-se that causes the toxicity, but rather, low pH freshwater is low in carbonate hardness, and that is what de-toxifies copper.

Jay

 

[sc50964]

That's true for ionic copper in freshwater systems, but not in marine systems. I don't think it is the pH per-se that causes the toxicity, but rather, low pH freshwater is low in carbonate hardness, and that is what de-toxifies copper.

Jay

Great so it is okay to not have the ph dialed in and 7.8 is okay.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Great so it is okay to not have the ph dialed in and 7.8 is okay.

Yes, and I like a slightly lower pH in the case there could be an ammonia problem in the system.

I've heard vague rumors that ionic copper is more toxic to marine fish during low hyposalinity treatments, but coppersafe is fine.

Jay

 

[sc50964]

Yes, and I like a slightly lower pH in the case there could be an ammonia problem in the system.

I've heard vague rumors that ionic copper is more toxic to marine fish during low hyposalinity treatments, but coppersafe is fine.

Jay

Low ph and ammonia problem? Pls elaborate.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Low ph and ammonia problem? Pls elaborate.

Ammonia exists in two states when dissolved in water, and the ratio between those is governed by the pH of the water. Test kits typically measure total ammonia. Total ammonia is comprised of two components: un-ionized ammonia (NH3) and ionized ammonia (NH4+). Un-ionized ammonia is extremely toxic to fish whereas ionized ammonia is not. At lower pH levels, there is very little NH3 present in the water, so the fish are not as adversely affected. That's why overall, ammonia is more toxic to marine fish (higher pH). 7.8 is safer than 8.2 in terms of toxic ammonia present, but it can still be an issue with there is lots of total ammonia in the water, even down to a pH of 6.5

Jay

 

[sc50964]

Ammonia exists in two states when dissolved in water, and the ratio between those is governed by the pH of the water. Test kits typically measure total ammonia. Total ammonia is comprised of two components: un-ionized ammonia (NH3) and ionized ammonia (NH4+). Un-ionized ammonia is extremely toxic to fish whereas ionized ammonia is not. At lower pH levels, there is very little NH3 present in the water, so the fish are not as adversely affected. That's why overall, ammonia is more toxic to marine fish (higher pH). 7.8 is safer than 8.2 in terms of toxic ammonia present, but it can still be an issue with there is lots of total ammonia in the water, even down to a pH of 6.5

Jay

Should’ve paid more attention in chemistry class. Thanks