QTing Zoas

[DracoKat]

I have a nudibranch infestation in my 28g tank. I am trying to figure out the best course of action for me.. my zoas will be going to my 75 tank soon.

Bayer is illegal here in NY, so I can't get it as a dip.

I have Coral RX and Revive. If I dip, I am hesitant to stick them back in the 28 gal where the nudibranches are still probably in the rocks.

I have an empty 10 gal tank I can convert to QT where I can keep an eye out for nudibranches.. However, I do not have proper lights for coral- and I do not want to spend extra money on lights. Would the zoas be OK for a week or so without proper lighting?

I can't find any flatworm exit locally, so I'll have to order some if people suggest it.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I have a nudibranch infestation in my 28g tank. I am trying to figure out the best course of action for me.. my zoas will be going to my 75 tank soon.

Bayer is illegal here in NY, so I can't get it as a dip.

I have Coral RX and Revive. If I dip, I am hesitant to stick them back in the 28 gal where the nudibranches are still probably in the rocks.

I have an empty 10 gal tank I can convert to QT where I can keep an eye out for nudibranches.. However, I do not have proper lights for coral- and I do not want to spend extra money on lights. Would the zoas be OK for a week or so without proper lighting?

I can't find any flatworm exit locally, so I'll have to order some if people suggest it.

You are correct on all points and all are fine ideas.
Yes they will be ok without light.
Not sure of the logistics of your transfer but why not keep the 28 and nuke it with fwe.
The fwe treatment is a nuke in the tank and is a lotta work too. So read up on it at Melevs reefs. Might be easier in the qt hospital tank.
That also would be a question of how many Zoas do you have. And is it worth it.
Nudi's hatch cycle is about ten to fifteen days FYI.
And contrary to popular opinion you can grow corals with a shop light. Get a 5600 daylight full spectrum is all.
Use as much lr as you can afford to in the qt and create a stable skip cycle and the Zoas will survive the transition better.
Nuking the hospital qt would be easier. And you can repeat the dosing after the egg cycle time.
IMO your looking at close to a month before you put the Zoas in new tank safely either way. Dip or dose.

Do look Into natural predators of the Nudi's too. Wrasses.

Fwiw. I'm pretty darn sure a whole heck of a lot lot of people have Nudi's too. But they don't know it. They have wrasses.

 

[DracoKat]

thanks!

I was thinking of getting a yellow coris wrasse when I am ready to get another fish.
I don't have a lot of zoas, maybe about 5 or 6 frags.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

thanks!

I was thinking of getting a yellow coris wrasse when I am ready to get another fish.
I don't have a lot of zoas, maybe about 5 or 6 frags.

With that many don't freak too hard. It's a bummer. But dip egg removal and qt should be fine.

Does this change your plans for the rock and sand from the cube?
I would be nice to have in the new tank yea?

 

[KlynnUK]

H2O2..!! If you need a dip....( available anywhere but seriously affective... what you want to use for depends in time plus % of concentration )... normally this is not use for getting rid of nudiss but for dipping its great.. My best proven solution was wrasse yellow coris. but for flat worm in LPS and it took almost 2 month ish starving this *******..I did started feeding evening time for all fish only during blue led lights timing when they(wrasse) rest under sandbed.. but when he developed a taste, it was gone within weeks...
Lights should not be any dramas. for limited time you might get away with a curtain wide open...

 

[DracoKat]

I am dumping the sand in the cube.. the rocks I will be putting into the 75 and into QT after a good cleaning- I will be breaking some up to smaller pieces for the refugium in the sump too. I did all new rocks in the 75g to ensure it's pest free.

Right now I have a sea urchin, several tiny brittle stars and an emerald crab in the 28g, waiting for the new tank to be more established before moving them over. I don't have enough algae yet for them. I am hesitant on treating the entire tank for nudi's because of them.

 

[DracoKat]

H2O2..!! If you need a dip....( available anywhere but seriously affective... what you want to use for depends in time plus % of concentration )... normally this is not use for getting rid of nudiss but for dipping its great.. My best proven solution was wrasse yellow coris. but for flat worm in LPS and it took almost 2 month ish starving this *******..I did started feeding evening time for all fish only during blue led lights timing when they(wrasse) rest under sandbed.. but when he developed a taste, it was gone within weeks...
Lights should not be any dramas. for limited time you might get away with a curtain wide open...

I have 2 wrasses in QT now- exquisite and red head solon wrasses. Once they go into the main tank, I will get a yellow coris. I hear good things about them and it puts my mind at ease a bit!

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I am dumping the sand in the cube.. the rocks I will be putting into the 75 and into QT after a good cleaning- I will be breaking some up to smaller pieces for the refugium in the sump too. I did all new rocks in the 75g to ensure it's pest free.

Right now I have a sea urchin, several tiny brittle stars and an emerald crab in the 28g, waiting for the new tank to be more established before moving them over. I don't have enough algae yet for them. I am hesitant on treating the entire tank for nudi's because of them.

yup wise move. Good luck...