Quarantine Questions

[Erin O]

Hi all! I'm working on setting up my first SW tank, so I've been doing a LOT of reading. Right now, I'm reading about QT. The threads by @Humblefish are SO helpful! But I have a few questions. First, and maybe I'm having trouble with this because of my freshwater roots, and I know that comparing FW and SW is like comparing apples and oranges, but should I really medicate all of my stock prophylactically? How do you suggest QTing a goby/shrimp pair? Should I get them separately, QT them separately? I've seen that inverts need to be QT'd for up to 76 days. Should I get my inverts now and have them QTing while I'm getting my DT set up and cycling? (No corals inverts at this time, just shrimp, crabs and snails). In the thread "How to Quarantine", it says to use either a small powerhead or an air pump and sponge filter for circulation and gas exchange. Would and air pump produce enough flow? I would think it would be too light, considering that the flow in the DT will be much higher, wouldn't it?

Thanks for your help!

 

[LAReefer4Life]

Hi there!

To answer your questions:

I really medicate all of my stock prophylactically? The short answer is all fish should be medicated in separate tank from all inverts.

Check out this article for standardized QT process of all my fish.

Best Practices: 4 Step Process to Help Prevent Fish Disease Outbreaks

This article highlights on establishing a 4-step streamlined process that in my experience has proven to be beneficial in preventing fish disease outbreaks.

www.reef2reef.com

How do you suggest QTing a goby/shrimp pair? They should be QT in separate tanks. One tank for QT of fish that you can easily administer medications if disease breaks out and the 2nd just for inverts that are held for the 76 day fallow period. However, shrimp molt and after this process occurs they are technically good to add into your display.

Would and air pump produce enough flow? I suggest a properly sized HOB filter and/or small powerhead in addition to airpump/sponge filter inside aquarium.

 

[mfinn]

I medicate all my fish prophylactically .
In my 20 gallon quarantine tank I use a air powered sponge filter that was seeded by running in my sump of my display tank. I also have a small powerhead, a heater and I use a small Aqua Clear back filter.
I use pvc fittings and a small plastic freshwater cave for cover for the fish.

 

[Idoc]

I prophylactically treat all fish... and no diseases have snuck through yet. So it's a risk thing... depends how much risk you want to take.

If you buy the goby/shrimp already paired, then that poses a problem. If you buy them separate and hope they will pair after you put in the DT, then fully quarantined each. The shrimp only needs to be quarantined for 76 days or until it molts... whichever comes first.

I don't use a powerhead in my fish quarantine tanks. I have an oversized HOB filter that actually creates decent flow. I add a regular airstone when I'm using antibiotics in the water column, which does create more flow.

 

[mike550]

Hi there!

To answer your questions:

I really medicate all of my stock prophylactically? The short answer is all fish should be medicated in separate tank from all inverts.

Check out this article for standardized QT process of all my fish.

Best Practices: 4 Step Process to Help Prevent Fish Disease Outbreaks

This article highlights on establishing a 4-step streamlined process that in my experience has proven to be beneficial in preventing fish disease outbreaks.

www.reef2reef.com

How do you suggest QTing a goby/shrimp pair? They should be QT in separate tanks. One tank for QT of fish that you can easily administer medications if disease breaks out and the 2nd just for inverts that are held for the 76 day fallow period. However, shrimp molt and after this process occurs they are technically good to add into your display.

Would and air pump produce enough flow? I suggest a properly sized HOB filter and/or small powerhead in addition to airpump/sponge filter inside aquarium.

Thanks for your summary as I continue to try and develop an efficient quarantine process. Couple of quick Qs

1. How long should the fresh water dip last, and how do you adjust pH of RODI water?

2. How long (total) does your copper regime take? It looks like about five days to reach the desired level. Then how long do you stay there?

Thanks in advance.

 

[TheShrimpNibbler]

Yes, you definitely need to treat fish just in case. Freshwater dips should last about two to three minutes, or until the fish becomes extremely stressed. After copper has reached therapeutic levels, the copper level cannot drop below that level at any point. If you are using two tank method, treat with copper for two weeks and then immediately transfer to the new, clean tank. If you only have one tank, treat with copper for 30 days.

 

[Terri Caton]

I just posted this. My clown blenny in QT. Not dead, just sleeping!

Every time I see it do this it freaks me out!

For me, if the fish comes from a very trusted source that already quarantines I do a short 5 day QT with copper. If no problems it goes in the DT. If the fish can’t handle copper they get 14 days with Metro.

I really don’t buy fish from sources other than those described anymore.

 

[LAReefer4Life]

Key Points to Conducting a Successful Fresh Water Dip:

Fresh water dips can be frightening for all parties involved the first time around. I steered away from them for many years because I was too scared to perform one. It's quite simple and is NOT as stressful as one would think, but it must be conducted properly.

• Use a dark 1-5 gallon bucket.
• Use RODI water that matches the same PH and temperature of the shipper water perimeters.

*Note: Retrieve water sample from bag the fish was shipped in and test the PH and temperature. Keep PH buffer or baking soda on hand if you need to raise the PH of the RODI to match the water sample. 1 teaspoon of baking soda per 5 gallons of water is a safe amount for small incremental increases. Dissolve the baking soda in water and add this mixture slowly and test PH to ensure correct PH match.

• Add air-stone into the bucket to produce more oxygen and agitate the water surface.
• Use Prime or Amquel to ensure ammonia doesn't rise in the bucket during fresh water dip (FWD)
• The duration of the dip should last anywhere between 5-10 minutes.

*Note: This timeframe is dependent on the health and behavior of the fish during the dip.

 

[Erin O]

I thought I read that Prime isn't a good choice because it will react to copper. That Amquel is the better choice. Is that correct? I'll try to find where I read it, but I'd like your thoughts in the meantime

 

[Sashaka]

I thought I read that Prime isn't a good choice because it will react to copper. That Amquel is the better choice. Is that correct? I'll try to find where I read it, but I'd like your thoughts in the meantime

The Amquel or Prime is not for the Q tank. It's for the freshwater dip water. I've never put it in the freshwater dip before though it can't hurt I wouldn't think. I usually add a couple of drops to the bag the fish comes in when I open it because after shipping the ammonia will have risen in bag.

 

[Erin O]

The Amquel or Prime is not for the Q tank. It's for the freshwater dip water. I've never put it in the freshwater dip before though it can't hurt I wouldn't think. I usually add a couple of drops to the bag the fish comes in when I open it because after shipping the ammonia will have risen in bag.

Ok, I misread then. I thought I had read that it was to be added to the QT tank. Thanks!