Quarantine Salinity

[StPatrick89]

Where should you keep your QT salinity? I hear it should be lower than 1.020. Like 1.018-1.019. Now would it be okay to get a fish from a store without drip acclimating it since from what I hear a decrease in salinity is better than an increase.

 

[Rmckoy]

Where should you keep your QT salinity? I hear it should be lower than 1.020. Like 1.018-1.019. Now would it be okay to get a fish from a store without drip acclimating it since from what I hear a decrease in salinity is better than an increase.

Most lfs keep their fish only setups at Lower salinity .

 

[Uncle99]

Yes, 1.018-1.020 is perfect. This QT is at 1.018.
Remember, you can put a fish in from high to low salinity, but when (and if) you need to increase to match DT, try to increase upwards, no more than 0.002 per day, or you’ll really stress them out as they need time to adjust to higher salinity.

 

[StPatrick89]

Yes, 1.018-1.020 is perfect. This QT is at 1.018.
Remember, you can put a fish in from high to low salinity, but when (and if) you need to increase to match DT, try to increase upwards, no more than 0.002 per day.

Well how much salt will increase the salinity by .02?
Also what size tank do you have?

 

[Ghost25]

I would keep it the same salinity as the display. In my opinion quarantine should really be observation not prophylactic treatment. Many people quarantine with an empty tank with some pieces of PVC with hyposalinity and prophylactically treat with prazipro or copper.

I think this causes a lot of stress and results in a lot of fish death. I would say try to keep your quarantine as similar as possible to your display, observe the fish carefully and only if you see signs of illness transfer it to a hospital tank where you can treat it with hyposalinity or medication.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I don't understand the point of getting fish used to much lower salinity for a few weeks then get it used to higher salinity....
Personally I don't believe the LFS thing, if it was true, people's fish would regularly die during acclimation. I acclimate 15-20 minutes and then get in the tank, I've never lost a fish. If the salinity was so different my fish would die. I buy from quality LFS that offer 24 hours stay alive guarantee, it makes no sense to offer this guarantee if the salinity is so different than the customer. Just to save a few dollars on salt? That would be a terrible business decision if its true, but I doubt it.
Just my 2 cents...

 

[mdb_talon]

I don't understand the point of getting fish used to much lower salinity for a few weeks then get it used to higher salinity....
Personally I don't believe the LFS thing, if it was true, people's fish would regularly die during acclimation. I acclimate 15-20 minutes and then get in the tank, I've never lost a fish. If the salinity was so different my fish would die. I also buy from quality LFS that offer 24 hours stay alive guarantee, it makes no sense to offer this guarantee if the salinity is so different than the customer.
Just my 2 cents...

You dont have to believe it, but it is extremely common for LFS to keep their fish systems at a lower salinity then we keep our reef tanks. Often between 1.021 and 1.023. have even seen some that keep their fish systems at 1.018. Should always ask the LFS the salinity of their systems.

 

[StPatrick89]

I don't understand the point of getting fish used to much lower salinity for a few weeks then get it used to higher salinity....
Personally I don't believe the LFS thing, if it was true, people's fish would regularly die during acclimation. I acclimate 15-20 minutes and then get in the tank, I've never lost a fish. If the salinity was so different my fish would die. I buy from quality LFS that offer 24 hours stay alive guarantee, it makes no sense to offer this guarantee if the salinity is so different than the customer. Just to save a few dollars on salt? That would be a terrible business decision if its true, but I doubt it.
Just my 2 cents...

I bought a fish from a LFS for the first time and asked them what their salinity was and they said 1.018. I thought that was interesting. That’s the first time I’ve encountered that. They have a good collection of fish so since the QT is where the fish will go first thats where I have mine currently

 

[Uncle99]

It’s corals that need 1.025-1.026, not fish.
Lower salinity waters have been proven to be less stressful on fish, and less stress leads to stronger immune systems and less disease.
A good LFS will run their systems in that range, and, in a fish only system it can run that way, but, if we have corals, they demand 1.025-1.026

 

[Spare time]

Most lfs keep their fish only setups at Lower salinity .

That is for 2 reasons

1. It is cheaper for the lfs

2. Fish sometimes come in at lower salinities because it is cheaper for the wholesaler

 

[Spare time]

It’s corals that need 1.025-1.026, not fish.
Lower salinity waters have been proven to be less stressful on fish, and less stress leads to stronger immune systems and less disease.
A good LFS will run their systems in that range, and, in a fish only system it can run that way, but, if we have corals, they demand 1.025-1.026

1. I highly doubt decreased salinity is less stressful on a marine fish. From an evolutionary perspective, that doesn't sense.

2. The salinity you see at a lfs is to be cheaper. It has absolutely no effect on disease. I can assure you this having worked at 2 LFS. The salinity has to be VERY low to help with certain diseases and accurately kept there.

 

[Ghost25]

It’s corals that need 1.025-1.026, not fish.
Lower salinity waters have been proven to be less stressful on fish, and less stress leads to stronger immune systems and less disease.
A good LFS will run their systems in that range, and, in a fish only system it can run that way, but, if we have corals, they demand 1.025-1.026

Where has that been proven? Please provide a research paper that comes to this conclusion.

 

[chema]

I set my quarantine to match the salinity the fish and corals come. Then I slowly modify it to match the salinit of my tank (35-35,5)

 

[Waters]

I set up my QT to whatever salinity the fish is given to me is at.....then I can take as long as I want to increase salinity to match my DT. I do this by just using saltwater as my top off and monitoring levels.

 

[StPatrick89]

It’s corals that need 1.025-1.026, not fish.
Lower salinity waters have been proven to be less stressful on fish, and less stress leads to stronger immune systems and less disease.
A good LFS will run their systems in that range, and, in a fish only system it can run that way, but, if we have corals, they demand 1.025-1.026

Does this go for soft corals as well?

 

[Rmckoy]

That is for 2 reasons

1. It is cheaper for the lfs

2. Fish sometimes come in at lower salinities because it is cheaper for the wholesaler

Lower salinity apparently helps keep parasites and diseases at bay

 

[Spare time]

Lower salinity apparently helps keep parasites and diseases at bay

Yes but only very low (hyposalinity) and much lower than what lfs keep their fish at. I think 1.009 is considered hypo. Also, depending on the setup at the store, it may be difficult to maintain that exactly.

 

[dkeller22]

Like some others have said I keep my QT tanks matched to my LFS (1.020) and he keeps them at what the wholesaler uses. When the QT period is over I do 20-25% water changes using DT water until they match. That also kind of sneaks in a water change on my DT tanks.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Just be careful - lower salinity in a QT, combined with uneaten food and bacteria can become a breeding ground for Uronema.
Jay

 

[dkeller22]

Good to know.