Quarantine tank help

[Saaqib_Ansari]

I’ve had what looks to be ich in my tank since I introduced the regal tang a few weeks ago the white spots on the tang disappeared in 2 days and had no problem for a week. Then 2 days ago they reappeared on 3 fish. 2 of which died the next day.

I want to start up a quarantine tank I have a 70L tank to spare, I just wanted to know if my DT while fallow could house the cleaner shrimp and 5 turbo snails I own? Or does being fallow mean they can’t be in there either ?

 

[Mudder]

Yes you can leave your CuC in tank just make sure all your fish are out during the fallow period

 

[DancingShark]

Inverts and corals can stay in the display.

 

[Big G]

That fast of a life cycle and the deaths sounds more like the behavior of Velvet.

 

[HotRocks]

That fast of a life cycle and the deaths sounds more like the behavior of Velvet.

Agree +1

Yes all coral and inverts can stay in the tank so long as you remove all of the fish.

 

[Saaqib_Ansari]

That fast of a life cycle and the deaths sounds more like the behavior of Velvet.

What’s the best treatment for this?

 

[Big G]

Here's the link to the complete treatment for marine velvet:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/#post-2499437

The short version:

• 5 minute freshwater dip
• Immediately afterwards, perform a chemical bath (in saltwater matching SG/temp the fish came from). You have two options:

1. Acriflavine (preferred) - Do the bath for 75-90 minutes, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain acriflavine: Acriflavine-MS and Ruby Reef Rally. DO NOT mix acriflavine with any other chemicals. IMPORTANT: THIS STEP HAS GREATLY INCREASED THE SURVIVIAL RATES OF BADLY INFECTED FISH.
2. Formalin - Do the bath for 30-60 minutes max, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain formalin: Formalin-MS, Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus. Use protection (rubber gloves, face mask, eye protection, etc.) whenever handling formalin as it is a known carcinogen! However, you can add Methylene Blue to the formalin bath (1 capful per 2-3 gallons of bath water.)

• After the bath, place the fish in a QT pre-dosed at 80mg/gal using Chloroquine phosphate. In theory, copper (exs. Cupramine, Coppersafe, Copper Power) should work just as well as CP. However, due to how fast velvet can reproduce you don’t have the luxury of slowly ramping up the copper level as is normally advised. Therefore, the fish needs to be placed in a QT with copper already at minimum therapeutic levels. This is the advantage CP has over copper in this particular situation.

Copper Power (NOT COPPERSAFE) is easy to obtain and should be dosed over 24-48 hours up to the therapeutic level of 2.0 ppm
The directions on the bottle are pretty accurate. But a test kit or the Hanna Copper Checker HL is the best most accurate to
measure the copper concentration.

• While in QT, use a wide spectrum antibiotic (exs. Seachem Kanaplex, Furan-2) for the first week to ward off any possible bacterial infections. Secondary bacterial infections are very common in fish with preexisting parasitic infestations such as velvet.
• Keep the fish in CP or copper (at therapeutic levels) for one month. However, you can transfer the fish into a non-medicated holding tank for observation after just two weeks (explained below). DO NOT lower the CP or copper level before transferring.