Quarantine Tank Help

[jscampbell4]

We are relatively new to reefing and have gone all in with a Waterbox 220.6. We've decided moving forward to set up our own quarantine tank. My question is about the size/dimensions. In others experience, what is the best size/setup? 20 gallon? 29 gallon? Long vs tall? Any other tidbits of knowledge would be helpful! We plan to get our fish small, but want flexibility in the event that an older fish down the road needs to be quarantined. Thanks!

 

[Gablami]

I have a 40breeder as my QT tank, but I think that’s on the bigger side. For most sized fish, a 20g tank is just fine. If you have room, long is better than tall. A good lid is important unless you’re filling the tank partially to prevent jumping.

 

[lapin]

Since I do the 36 hr TTM method this might not pertain to you.
I use 2ea 20 gallon long tanks. Will do 3 fish easy.

 

[Uncle99]

At least 20g.
Glass, sponge filter, heater, desk lamp, plastic pipe fittings.
I do not cycle, I keep it simple, I don’t medicate unless I have a reason to do so.
If they eat well, behave well, look good, 14 days and in they go.
I can’t count the number of fish which die in excessive QT time and multi meds.
Feed well, feed high protein, feed frequently but in small quantities, feed variety.
This results in fish strong and more resistant to disease.

Also, I am a huge fan of @lapins method.

 

[DaddyFish]

IMHO, when it comes to QT, less is more.

20-gal has worked best for me. I tried working with a 10-gal, but some species like Niger Trigger don't do well at all in a small tank. I feel anything over a 20-gal and you're spending too much money on meds and water changes. Since QTs tend to be new(er) setups, you wind up doing fairly frequent water changes to keep ammonia in check, or at least I do. Plus, you can't run carbon, can't run UV, often times must frequently toss the filtration media, and absolutely positively MUST keep everything isolated because it will probably have absorbed copper.

Bare bottom is good. I use black ABS panels underneath and behind to limit light and it definitely helps calm the fish to have a mostly blacked-out environment.

Heavy aeration is essential.

Cheap submersible LED light off Amazon with basic timer.

HOB filtration most definitely. I prefer a controllable big HOB in a 20, like the Seachem Tidal-110. Love that filter and I can dial it up or down to suit my intentions with particular fish.

 

[jscampbell4]

IMHO, when it comes to QT, less is more.

20-gal has worked best for me. I tried working with a 10-gal, but some species like Niger Trigger don't do well at all in a small tank. I feel anything over a 20-gal and you're spending too much money on meds and water changes. Since QTs tend to be new(er) setups, you wind up doing fairly frequent water changes to keep ammonia in check, or at least I do. Plus, you can't run carbon, can't run UV, often times must frequently toss the filtration media, and absolutely positively MUST keep everything isolated because it will probably have absorbed copper.

Bare bottom is good. I use black ABS panels underneath and behind to limit light and it definitely helps calm the fish to have a mostly blacked-out environment.

Heavy aeration is essential.

Cheap submersible LED light off Amazon with basic timer.

HOB filtration most definitely. I prefer a controllable big HOB in a 20, like the Seachem Tidal-110. Love that filter and I can dial it up or down to suit my intentions with particular fish.

Thanks! Can you explain the submersible light? Vs some people say a desk lamp or an actual aquarium led light?

 

[Fezbearer]

I have a 10g with a HOB, and powerhead. For lights I use a 'fuge light.

 

[Paulie069]

Best advice I can give you is skip the QT tank and toss away any meds you wasted money on and let Mother Nature do her thing. Good luck

 

[ShepherdReefer]

Here is a good article to read.

Quarantine Setup Made Easy

Introduction: This article covers the equipment that I utilize in my current quarantine tank. I address commonly asked questions for newly cycled and existing QT setups. In addition, I touch upon the trusted medications that I keep on hand...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Reefrats]

At least 20g.
Glass, sponge filter, heater, desk lamp, plastic pipe fittings.
I do not cycle, I keep it simple, I don’t medicate unless I have a reason to do so.
If they eat well, behave well, look good, 14 days and in they go.
I can’t count the number of fish which die in excessive QT time and multi meds.
Feed well, feed high protein, feed frequently but in small quantities, feed variety.
This results in fish strong and more resistant to disease.

Also, I am a huge fan of @lapins method.

My LFS quarantines and medicates. I still ended up with ich. I “treated” with polyplab medic. Haven’t had an issue in about 6 months. Tank is 10 months old and my first salt/reef tank. I am contemplating getting some tangs but I know the can be ich magnets. I’m concerned about adding fish and having an ich outbreak. I’ve been told to get a quarantine tank and let my tank go fallow by some and others say get a UV sterilizer. Your comment says 14 days and in they go... what about ich?

 

[DaddyFish]

Thanks! Can you explain the submersible light? Vs some people say a desk lamp or an actual aquarium led light?

El cheapo submersible aquarium LED (Nicrew or similar). They just work, easy to mount, easy to aim, not powerful enough to grow algae, simple.

Submersible Nicrew Aquarium Light on Amazon