So...
You have 3 objectives which call for 3 different setups, only one of which is actually a quarantine tank,
per se.
For the fish, just to ease them into the tank and minimize stress.
This is an acclimation tank. It is not really a quarantine tank unless you do more with it for the purpose of minimizing the likelihood of introducing parasites or diseases into your display tank. It probably is set up the same way you would set up a proper quarantine tank. You should be able to use only ambient lighting from the room the tank is in. You might even shield the fish in the acclimation tank from direct light for the first few days.
It is also important how you clean and disinfect it between uses if your objective moves from acclimation to proper quarantining.
For the corals, to inspect them and make sure they're safe and parasite free before they go in the DT.
This is getting more toward the purpose of a quarantine tank. You will need the appropriate and different water velocities and light intensities for your different corals. 6500K will possibly make algae grow and take over your tank.
You might be able to produce different water velocity zones in a single tank by putting up a few low baffles that are below the main"blast" of currents. That will spoil the flow pattern, providing low speed currents deep in the tank between the baffles and high speed currents high in the tank above the level of the baffles. This will also produce turbulent currents in the deeper areas.
You should consider dipping your corals before you put them in their QT. Also remove them from the plugs they are on when you acquire them. Do not put the original plugs in the coral QT. Remove and discard those plugs. Use new ones if you want them on plugs.
I also would like to have a QT handy in case of any disease.
This would actually be a hospital tank in which you can administer chemical treatments, medications.and various snake oils. It sets up similarly to your fish acclimation tank or a quarantine tank. Never use previously used media of any kind on this tank. No sand bed, no rock, new PVC fittings for privacy, new filter materials.
Discard theses items between uses. If you use an HOB filter, pre-seed a new sponge for it; e.g., in your sump. If you are medicating check on the inappropriateness of using things like carbon in your filtration. Expect to do a lot of water changing to remove ammonia and other bad stuff.
Be sure to have enough salt mix on hand to maintain a hospital tank. Provide a means to reduce light exposure for this tank, possibly even to it being nearly dark.
Very importantly is thorough cleaning, disinfecting the tank and its support equipment between uses.
Everything you use with the hospital tank should be dedicated to the hospital tank, never shared with any other tanks. This includes the tank, its plumbing, fixtures, pumps, filters, heaters, thermometers and other sensors, even nets and such. In my book, even a refractometer must be dedicated for use only with the hospital tank if you use it for refraction measurements of water that comes from the hospital tank.
fab
