QUARANTINE TANK?

[Gary Ellis]

I plan on setting up a 10g tank temporarily when I purchase a new fish and then dismantling it when I'm finished . Is it OK to use water from my main tank or should I use fresh RO/DI water. As far as I know it is free of disease.

 

[Oldsalt01]

It's fine either way. The tank water will be a bit more stable, but if ur thinking it will help with any potential cycles, it won't. Bacterial colonization of the water column is minimal, at best. What I would do is put a filter sponge in my DT filtration area with good flow, leave it there for at least a couple of weeks, and then transfer it to the QT to help kick start the cycle. Or, you can use a product like Dr Tim's, among others, to move the cycle in the QT along. I just leave my 5.5 QT set up. It's easier that way.

 

[Gary Ellis]

I don't think I will have the tank setup long enough to cycle anyways. Like I said once I know the new fish is OK I will take the 10g down. I just think the water from my main tank will be better. I have a bag of ceramic bio rings in my main tank media rack will that be OK instead of a filter sponge? Thanks

 

[Big G]

HOB filter with both the sponge and either Biomax or Matrix or bio rings that have been soaked in Dr. Tims/Biospira. And a bubble air filter with the sponge also soaked in Dr. Tims/Biospira. Pour the Dr. Tims/Biospira into the tank after soaking the previous items. A small powerhead aimed up at the surface where it ripples the surface water also helps add O2. Do you have a Seachem Ammonia Alert Badge?

 

[Gary Ellis]

Yes on the Seachem Ammonia Alert Badge. I have a HOB filter and bio rings in my main tank that I plan on taking out and using. Is that OK? I also have this HYDOR KORALIA EVOLUTION 240 wavemaker.

 

[Humblefish]

I have a bag of ceramic bio rings in my main tank media rack will that be OK instead of a filter sponge? Thanks

Yes, but test your copper level to check for absorption.

 

[Gary Ellis]

Well now I'm confused...What copper?

 

[Oldsalt01]

Yes, but test your copper level to check for absorption.

I'm thinking he's not planning on medicating, just a quick dip in a QT and if nothing shows up, popping the fish right into the DT. What could go wrong?

 

[Gary Ellis]

I'm thinking he's not planning on medicating, just a quick dip in a QT and if nothing shows up, popping the fish right into the DT. What could go wrong?

Yes that's my plan. Keeping the fish in the QT for a week or two and seeing if any thing shows up. If all is well into the DT it goes. I've read if the fish is healthy,the copper can stress them out more then necessary. Is it OK to do it this way?

 

[User]

Well, you could, but most things take about 4-5 weeks to present themselves. 2 weeks really isn’t enough.

Any new fish I get go into TTM (4 rounds of 3 days) with Prazipro on rounds 2 and 4, then into an observation tank (40b) set up with an aqua clear 50 hob cycled with biospira (during the TTM period) for 4 additional weeks. Any issues that crop up get dealt with appropriately in a 10g, then back to observation for 2-3 weeks more

 

[Humblefish]

Well, you could, but most things take about 4-5 weeks to present themselves. 2 weeks really isn’t enough.

^^ This

 

[Gary Ellis]

^^ This

OK Thanks

 

[Oldsalt01]

My schedule is about 4 weeks, just to be sure. Plus it gives the fish time to chill from shipping stress, get on a regular feeding schedule, and ensure nothing pops up. I don't generally medicate for the first week, just observe unless something shows up. I always assume the fish has something, and in 3 years have never had a disease issue. My last fish had flukes show up 3 weeks in and I was able to eradicate them before intro into the DT.

 

[Gary Ellis]

If a fish has been in a LFS for 4-5 weeks and is eating and healthy looking. Can I assume it is disease free?

 

[4FordFamily]

Certain fish like wrasse and gobies can mask symptoms of even velvet for several months and even forever. You don’t want to create a Typhoid Mary situation, just my .02.

 

[jrill]

I know folks will go ape crazy, but been keeping fish for over 50 years and never quarantine. Never had a problem. Dumb luck I suppose.

 

[User]

OK Thanks

Lol, you’re welcome

 

[User]

If a fish has been in a LFS for 4-5 weeks and is eating and healthy looking. Can I assume it is disease free?

Unfortunately, no.

Incoming fish can bring in a parasite at any point. Like, the day before you bought it, before symptoms start.

Sub-therapeutic copper will mask symptoms but not kill the parasite. In fact, it can make them resistant making treatment options limited. Not all lfs use copper- but one of mine that swore blind he didn’t changed his tune when I used my Hanna checker and it came up positive. I no longer use that store.

The only way to really be sure 100% is to do your own QT, and to be meticulous.

 

[User]

never quarantine. Dumb... I suppose.

Yep [emoji12]

 

[Oldsalt01]

I look at it this way. If I don't QT a new fish, or don't QT it long enough to be fairly sure there are no disease issues, add it to my DT and it starts to show symptoms, I'll probably have to tear the tank apart to catch it (unless I'm very lucky). By the time I notice symptoms there is a high probability my other fish have been infected. If I'm lucky enough to get the sick fish(es) out, my tank has now been infected with parasites and I'll have to wait a minimum of 75 days of a fish-less DT to ensure the disease cycle has ended and the parasites have died from a lack of hosts. It's a general rule NOT to medicate an established DT as it can/will kill many innocent bystanders and probably nuke the tank. While establishing and maintaining a QT is a bit of a pia, in the long run it is much less stressful to both me and the fish. My 5.5 QT was set up the same time my 14g DT was. After 3 years they're both running well, and now that I'm no longer acquiring fish, I use the QT as a holding tank for settling in and observing for hitchhikers on new corals.