Quarantine tanks to be acquired first before display tank?

[Subsea]

It atomizes with water into the air and travels I'm not sure if it was ich velvet or both. Someone else will have to elaborate. Like I said I'm in no way an expert in this.

I find that dubious. Introduction would be more likely with a drop of infected water on finger nail or net to introduce the ich parasite.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

If I am going to get started in the saltwater aquarium hobby, should I first buy a small tank to be the quarantine tank? And then after 70 days I can buy the final display tank?

Set both tanks up at the same time. The display tank can house hardy invertebrates while you are using the quarantine for the new fish.

Jay

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Edit: per Jay Hemdal's recommended quarantine, copper treatment PLUS Praziquantel PLUS an additional 10 day observation is around 70 days.

It usually ends up being about 60 days, unless a third prazi treatment is needed.

Jay

 

[Dom]

If I am going to get started in the saltwater aquarium hobby, should I first buy a small tank to be the quarantine tank? And then after 70 days I can buy the final display tank?

My recommendation is to decide which fish you want to keep and then configure your system around those fish.

It is refreshing to see new hobbyists thinking quarantine right off the starting line, and I feel it is a a good practice.

I typically do a 90 day quarantine. Yes, it is more than recommended time. But I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

[Daniel@R2R Verified Admin]

This discussion went off topic at this point. The off-topic conversation has been moved here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/a...ents-of-prophylactic-treatment-in-qt.1008856/

 

[Cichlid Dad]

I find that dubious. Introduction would be more likely with a drop of infected water on finger nail or net to introduce the ich parasite.

Quote from @Humblefish


The study that was done on aerosol transmission involved Amyloodinium (Marine Velvet disease). It proved the dinospore stage of velvet was transmissible up to 3 meters (or 9.84 feet) with dynamic systems. Well, any aquarium with flow/bubbles breaking the surface can be considered “dynamic.” The dinospore stage of velvet is similar in nature to the “free swimming” stage of other external parasites. Cryptocaryon irritans (aka Marine Ich) has a theront stage, for example. Therefore, it is logical to conclude that these are transmissible via aerosol as well. More info available here: https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/fish-disease-treatment-diagnosis/190292-aerosol-transmission.html

Technically, a theront has 48 hrs to find a fish host or die. However, it's infectivity is greatly reduced 6-8 hours after it leaves the cyst.
Like

 

[RRA]

Sorry for not reading the entire post, but here is my answer to the OP

Personally I would want to get a good cycle on my display, the longer you can have that up and running before introducing any man HPR animals the better. Even if you quick cycle it with fritz or something riding out the 70 days without slamming it with a bio load will only benefit you, even a light off for those 70 days would be great.

 

[Spare time]

Because copper treatment for possible Ich takes around 70 days. If my FOWLR is only 10 gallons do I need to quarantine the first new fish in a separate tank?

It should only be about 30 days needed + 14 for flukes at 81F

 

[Spare time]

I'm not the expert, but this stuff will get into the air and travel a good distance from what I have read. Again I don't qt so I'm not sure how far it should be

Maybe running a hepa air filter next to the qt tank would work?

 

[Spare time]

How do I get beneficial bacteria for a 5 gallon quarantine tank if I can't have any live rock/sand or biological filter media in it? Will bacteria in a bottle work okay?

Dump a whole bottle of bio spira in

 

[The_Paradox]

Maybe running a hepa air filter next to the qt tank would work?

If you tented it and ran positive pressure.

 

[7of9]

Or what about if just make my 10 gallon saltwater tank just have invertebrates and no fish? Invertebrates don't develop Ich or diseases, right?

So, it all depends on how you decide to handle risk, like most things in life.

I have a small tank. I don't plan on many fish in it. So, for me, thinking through the risk versus benefit, I've decided NOT to quarantine. Yes, I have a risk of a disease entering my tank. I'll do my best to reduce that risk by choosing where I get my fish from, but if, at worst, I did get a diseased fish, I'm not risking losing many other fish.

Obviously, this would be a LOT different if I was planning a large tank with a lot of fish. In that case, it would make sense to me to run a quarantine tank because if the worst happened, I could lose a whole bunch of fish.

You can make this hobby as simple or as complicated as you want to make it. Of course, there are best practices that will reduce your risk of something bad happening the most. You're also far better off never speeding on the highway, too.

 

[Spare time]

PS You can also have someone QT fish and inverts for you too.

 

[Spare time]

It is quite popular actually. There are several companies that do it (Dr Reefs, TSM, etc.).

 

[7of9]

Sometimes, it's things like this that make the hobby seem too complicated or costly for people to even begin. Sometimes, I think it's important to start with the very basics rather than be rigid in thinking that you have to do everything perfectly.

Is it good to quarantine? Of course. Is it absolutely necessary? No.

Don't let perfect be the enemy of good.

 

[Treefer32]

If your first fish added to the display have ich, you now have ich in your display and need to remove the fish to QT and let display sit for a fallow period without any fish. If you're going to QT, then build out your display tank, get it cycling and then build out the QT and start your QT regimen with the fish you want. By the time the display is cycled your first fish will be ready to introduce and you can start your next round of fish.

 

[Subsea]

If I am going to get started in the saltwater aquarium hobby, should I first buy a small tank to be the quarantine tank? And then after 70 days I can buy the final display tank?

Well Homer, my bad for the hijacking. The thread has addressed conflicting viewpoints:
Welcome to Reefing.

 

[The_Paradox]

Kinda on topic… maybe. I’ll confess I’m generally a walk it off guy for some diseases and parasites. In last ten years I only remember have Marine Ich out break once. It had to have come in on a coral because nothing else had been added in months if not years. Guessing about ten fish in the tank at the time. Once I was sure it was Ich I let them ride it out. Only fish I lost was of all things a Pajama Cardinal. That being said, I’m 99% positive I’ve killed a fish by chasing it with a net and throwing it in a hospital tank. I know this is relevant to a hospital tank not a quarantine tank, but there is merit to both sides of the debate. Stress does weaken fish, but so does not treating Velvet. Like most things, it usually depends on the situation.

 

[Rickster1334]

Because copper treatment for possible Ich takes around 70 days. If my FOWLR is only 10 gallons do I need to quarantine the first new fish in a separate tank?

30 day for fish, 76 days for inverts

 

[Rickster1334]

This is how I will setup my quarantine tank:

The 10 gallon display tank will be on top and my quarantine tank on the bottom.

You risk cross contamination and disease transfer