Quarantining shrimp

CarterJ

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I’ve read about quarantining inverts for 72-78 days, and that is the practice I use. My understanding is this number is based on the life cycle and the encysted form of ich. However, if a shrimp molted during this time, would he be safe to move into the DT before the full quarantine time? Assuming the shrimp appeared otherwise healthy
 
The last time I qt shrimp it was 2 cleaner shrimp, a week apart. I kept transferring them from Tupperware container to container over the course of a few days feeding them and waiting for them to melt. I put them in after they molted. I think it was about 3 days, then one more day just to be sure it was a successful molt.
 
boiled-shrimp-recipe_d43.jpg
Best way to QT shrimp
 
Jim, you have a very strange sense of humor...
 
I’ve read about quarantining inverts for 72-78 days, and that is the practice I use. My understanding is this number is based on the life cycle and the encysted form of ich. However, if a shrimp molted during this time, would he be safe to move into the DT before the full quarantine time? Assuming the shrimp appeared otherwise healthy

I don't QT inverts. IMO its just not practical.

When I buy them, I make sure NONE of the water from the LFS goes into my tank. After I am sure of this, they all go inside.

I QT fish (with hyposalinity for 90 days), and corals.
 
I don't QT inverts. IMO its just not practical.

When I buy them, I make sure NONE of the water from the LFS goes into my tank. After I am sure of this, they all go inside.

I QT fish (with hyposalinity for 90 days), and corals.

If you QT corals, why not QT inverts? I’m asking seriously, couldn’t it be done in the same set up?
 
If you QT corals, why not QT inverts? I’m asking seriously, couldn’t it be done in the same set up?

Snail shells can theoretically harbor Ich cysts for up to 72 days. However, if you obtained them from a supplier who keeps the inverts separate from fish, it's unlikely the inverts will be carrying fish diseases. None of the water from the store goes into the tank. I make sure of this.

Yes there is a risk, but then again you can also get diseases like ICH from added chaeto to your system. I don't think I have ever heard of anyone putting chaeto in QT, but yes, adding anything 'wet' to your tank without QT and you run the risk of introducing something unwanted.
 
Snail shells can theoretically harbor Ich cysts for up to 72 days. However, if you obtained them from a supplier who keeps the inverts separate from fish, it's unlikely the inverts will be carrying fish diseases. None of the water from the store goes into the tank. I make sure of this.

Yes there is a risk, but then again you can also get diseases like ICH from added chaeto to your system. I don't think I have ever heard of anyone putting chaeto in QT, but yes, adding anything 'wet' to your tank without QT and you run the risk of introducing something unwanted.

Your logic here doesn't make sense to me. I don't think it's unlikely at all for a separate invert system at a supplier to carry fish diseases. Unless they practice rather strict biosecurity measures to ensure water from a fish system never comes into contact with their invert system, wet hands and non sanitized equipment will instantaneously contaminate all systems. But even beyond that, these inverts collected from the wild inevitably come in with numerous possible pathogens anyways, so the separate invert system would already be full of those contaminants. Unless you're completely drying every exterior exposed surface of whatever you add to your tank, you're absolutely adding water from the supplier to your system. Furthermore, some of the most common pathogens attach to a substrate, so not adding any contaminated water won't even be that much of a benefit.

P.S. You can now say you know of someone who quarantines chaeto (or anything else living for that matter)
 
Your logic here doesn't make sense to me. I don't think it's unlikely at all for a separate invert system at a supplier to carry fish diseases. Unless they practice rather strict biosecurity measures to ensure water from a fish system never comes into contact with their invert system, wet hands and non sanitized equipment will instantaneously contaminate all systems. But even beyond that, these inverts collected from the wild inevitably come in with numerous possible pathogens anyways, so the separate invert system would already be full of those contaminants. Unless you're completely drying every exterior exposed surface of whatever you add to your tank, you're absolutely adding water from the supplier to your system. Furthermore, some of the most common pathogens attach to a substrate, so not adding any contaminated water won't even be that much of a benefit.

P.S. You can now say you know of someone who quarantines chaeto (or anything else living for that matter)

There is no logic really to not get lol.

I don’t QT inverts because in my system I deem the risk to be acceptable compared to the effort of running a QT with them inside for the 72 days.

I also don’t QT chaeto.

You aren’t wrong, anything wet that’s contaminated could spread a disease, but then where do you draw the line. For me, it’s inverts and chaeto.
 
There is no logic really to not get lol.

I was referring specifically to the part of your post where you suggest that if a supplier keeps inverts in a separate system and you don't add any water from the bag, it is somehow lessening the risk.
 
I was referring specifically to the part of your post where you suggest that if a supplier keeps inverts in a separate system and you don't add any water from the bag, it is somehow lessening the risk.

Oh no I’m well aware that no stores properly QT’s anything in there, and your absolutely right technically anything and everything wet should be in QT.

There is just a line that I deem lesser of a risk than others and with my job, it’s just not realistic to QT inverts, chaeto, etc. For sure there is a risk in taking but it’s reasonable enough for me to allow it.

Fish absolutely go into QT and same with corals.
 
The best practice is to quarantine everything in a separate QT tank until it dies, without ever adding it to your display tank in order to have 0% risk. If you never add anything to your display tank it can never be contaminated. It's best to add dry rock and dry sand and nothing else ever. Then, simply run multiple quarantine systems for the entirety of your life. To prevent all forms of algae, it's also a best practice to avoid adding water. 100% isopropyl alcohol will ensure a disease and algae free system for life.
 

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