Question about acrylic

LitlBailey

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
May 20, 2009
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hello, I'm trying to start working with acrylic, but all that I can find locally is plexi-glass. My question is, will Plexi-glass work for a sump, or would I need the actual acrylic that I can find online? Not to thrilled about paying shipping charges, but I will if I have to.
 
Plexi is acrylic for a sump it will be fine as long as it is 1/4" or more and the baffles will help add support once they are welded. Weld-on has many different varieties I use #4 which is water thin for osmosis dispersion into the joints. It also dries fast, they have much thicker stuff but it dries slow and I think you don't get as clean and clear joints with it.....Also if the edges of the plexi or acrylic is laser cut you will have to sand them down as weld-on will not weld a laser cut edge.


Welcome to R2R.....
 
I agree, but I would recommend going with a thicker 3/8" thickness. It can be a bit stronger and more forgiving. I find it easier to work with too since its a bit more rigid.
 
Alot depends on size and how your setting up the sump. As Azurel says, Weld-on #4 works just fine on a good flat edge. For the outside edges I prefer the 2-part mix and use the #4 for the internal pieces. I use Caseway 2-part PS30. Weld-on equivelant is #40.

Cell cast acrylic is more durable in the long run. But regular plexi should be fine for a sump. Just a bit more brittle.
 
Agree with both posts.The only problem you might find is getting plexi thicker then
1/4" local . I looked every where here in Kalamazoo and nobody stocks it thicker at most places that don't deal or use plexi or acrylic. If it was a tank I would even think about it, but a sump you have a little bit more freedom depending on size like Genius said.....But thicker would be better for sure....The thicker stuff( chemical welder) also works best for edges that are not cut exact. So it gives you a little bit of error, to use the thin welder you really have to have a true edge for it to work and give you the best strength in the joint. For my tank I built I had it cut on a CNC at the place I bought the acrylic. I didn't use plexi but museum grade UV resistant acrylic. So I didn't take the chance of my shaky cutting skills cutting it. The thicker you go the more it is going to cost especially now after gas skyrocketed last year....
 
I have no problems with being able to cut a straight and true edge, so that's not a problem. Just mainly wondering if the plexi will stand up to the use. Getting 1/4 inch locally isn't a problem either. I also have Lexan available if that would be a better choice.
 
Well to use the thin stuff you can't be much more then a .001 off, at least the place here in town that makes acrylic tank told me.....Lexan would be better in my opinion....
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top