Question about Kelvins

MohrReefs

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If I drop or raise the kelvins will it stress the corals? Right now I'm at 20k, but I may jump to 23k or drop to 15k. If I did that, should I match my current blue and white intensities that are currently on the 20k or will they need to change based on the kelvins? Or is that completely unrelated?
 
If you're dialing in a warmer Kelvin (more red or less blue) do so very slowly and observe corals/anemones/clams closely. Red light is known to regulate (lessen) zooxanthellae densities/chlorophyll. In extreme cases, too much red can bleach a coral. In experiments I conducted with a meter that reports chlorophyll content, it became apparent that the human eye is a very poor judge of loss of zoox/chlorophyll. A coral can be technically bleached while still having a light brownish coloration.
 
If you're dialing in a warmer Kelvin (more red or less blue) do so very slowly and observe corals/anemones/clams closely. Red light is known to regulate (lessen) zooxanthellae densities/chlorophyll. In extreme cases, too much red can bleach a coral. In experiments I conducted with a meter that reports chlorophyll content, it became apparent that the human eye is a very poor judge of loss of zoox/chlorophyll. A coral can be technically bleached while still having a light brownish coloration.
In that case would it be better to go up towards a cooler 23k?
 
There was study done using Acropora specimens and metal halide lights - the authors reported 14000K was best. Not sure how that paper got through peer-review, but it did (there were holes in it big enough to drive a truck through.) I had some issues years ago when I went with only actinic fluorescent lamps - there were growths of nuisance algae/diatoms within a day or two. Don't know for sure if the change in lights was responsible but I do know I didn't like the look of the tank. Personally, I like a crisp bluish-white light....
 
Fiddling with blue / white LED ratios of such a trivial amount will not make corals grow better or worse because a cool white LED *is* a blue LED with just a bit of green spectrum mixed in and even lesser amount of red. The white LED technically blocks a bit of blue light due to the phosphors, but a blue and a cool white LED in the same family put out roughly the same PAR.

I do agree with Dana that suddenly dialing in a lot of red can cause some weird response issues because red/orange is a mostly foreign spectrum to an organism accustomed to growing underwater unless it's very shallow. However, 23-15k is mostly just fiddling with blue LEDs vs cool white LEDs and green light is mostly what;s constituting the kelvin change. Green light is pretty much not a factor to worry about.
 
Fiddling with blue / white LED ratios of such a trivial amount will not make corals grow better or worse because a cool white LED *is* a blue LED with just a bit of green spectrum mixed in and even lesser amount of red. The white LED technically blocks a bit of blue light due to the phosphors, but a blue and a cool white LED in the same family put out roughly the same PAR.

I do agree with Dana that suddenly dialing in a lot of red can cause some weird response issues because red/orange is a mostly foreign spectrum to an organism accustomed to growing underwater unless it's very shallow. However, 23-15k is mostly just fiddling with blue LEDs vs cool white LEDs and green light is mostly what;s constituting the kelvin change. Green light is pretty much not a factor to worry about.
So as long as match the intensity I can just change over to 23k?
 

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