question about "odd" aquarium drain plumbing

[Mr. GoodStuff]

I'm looking for some input on some aquarium plumbing for my tank. I'm thinking about moving my tank to a different wall of the room that has a crawlspace behind it which would possibly allow me to setup a large sump area and all the equipment in the crawlspace. Problem is there's about a 1' thick foundation in between that is about 4ft tall and I don't plan on drilling a hole through concrete that thick, so my only option would be to run the drain and return plumbing above the foundation. However if I do that I will have to bring it back downwards on the other side of the wall so I can connect it to the bottom of the tank unless a build a 5ft tall stand which is just ridiculous and not going to happen.

My question; is the plumbing going to be fine like that or will I encounter any issues? I do know that it will not drain water from the tank past the highest point of the piping but that's fine. Here's a quick picture of what I'm talking about: (the black is the foundation and the gray on top of it is a regular drywall wall.

 

[Ron Reefman]

It will work at the start, but the bottom of that 'U' will work like a trap under a sink and catch all kines of heavier than water stuff like snail shells, sand, and more. I would drill the holes. I ran through a cinder block wall to a 1hp chiller I kept outside.

 

[Reefer Reboot]

Or to help with the trap problem that Ron pointed out, you could add a cleanout.

 

[RocketEngineer]

I would drill new overflow holes or use this as an excuse for a new display.

 

[garbled]

Assuming you add the cleanout, and clean it out regularly, my only concern would be that with that number of bends, you would have a pretty low flow rate. Maybe you could get around that by oversizing the pipe?

 

[Breadman03]

*However,* if you're open to a new tank, you could go with an overflow box like a Shadow, keep the plumbing up high, and eliminate that trap.

 

[Ratherbeflyen]

There is no way I would ever have my drain plumbing running uphill. With enough time the potential for failure and flood is near 100%. I would, and did, use an internal overflow mounted to the back of the tank. The outflow of the external box will be ~8-10" from the top of your tank. In your diagram anyway, it will clear your concrete portion of the wall.

I converted my tank from an internal to external overflow from scratch by choice to get more space and a more natural look in my tank.

I had reservations about the old holes in the bottom of the tank. Then someone pointed out that silicone and glass is how the rest of the tank is made. So putting a couple of squares of glass over an old hole is way stronger than the front panel....

Old return line hole on the left, and glass patch covering the old drain holes on the right.

Internal Aquarium Overflows

Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tanks

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[John A!10]

Don’t risk it. Do it right and it will save you many headaches later. No need to clean out, no risk of failure etc.

How wide is the wall between the crawl space and the tank? Could you drill it: check out this video.

 

[theMeat]

If you have the right drill and bit it’s easy. Go rent one. Be done in 20 minutes. Make an extra hole or two for wires, additions

 

[Chrysemys]

I agree that you will end up regretting not drilling a hole.
However, if you want to stick with this idea....
I suggest installing air reliefs at both 45s that are in place to go over the wall. In other words use a tee instead of a 45. I’d run the tee up as high as your water level in your tank so if things ever got clogged it wouldn’t drain your tank. Also the clean out in the low spot on the tank side is essential.
I assume just adding height to the stand so you can go level over the wall is out of the question?

 

[snorklr]

is it a solid concrete wall?...most stuff thats above grade will be cement block (at least around here) and cement block is hollow ....the outer walls are about 1 inch thick and theres one or 2 front-to-back dividers inside so the top view looks like 2 H's laid on their sides with the ends touching (when all else fails google a pic of a cement block)...usually the top course gets filled with cement to keep out water and hold the anchor bolts...i've seen plumbers "drill" a hole through a hollow spot by beating a hole in it with a hammer...and repeating on the other side....obviously hammer drill or chisel is preferable

 

[Salty Rambler]

Not sure how big of a tank you are referencing, or the height differential of the concrete wall you are attempting to clear, but is there an option to build a platform under the stand to elevate everything a bit and clear the wall?

 

[Mr. GoodStuff]

It is a solid concrete foundation wall that is about 12" thick - drilling is unfortunately out of the question due to safety issues and the cost of rental equipment to go through concrete that thick and straight. I'll have to figure something else out or possibly drill overflow holes in the back of the tank at the top.

 

[[Cameron]]

External overflow is going to be the easiest solution IMO. A Shadow or Prodigy overflow will probably work.

I have seen a reverse sump before where the main tank is lower than the sump and water is pumped to the sump and the sump overflow drains into the main tank. Simple concept but means having your sump water level higher than your main tank.

 

[Chrysemys]

I have operated a reverse sump. It works, but requires a bit of pre-planning. Also maintenance is a pain with every thing being up higher. Keep in mind the whole sump doesn’t have to be higher than the main tank. Just have to have it high enough to gravity full flow to tank.

 

[John A!10]

I really wouldn’t recommend a reverse sump, maintenance will be a pain. If drilling is out of the question I would go with an external overflow. Also I wouldn’t go with the two in one shown above I would get a separate return line.