Question about Seachem Stability + Dry Start

[SpeakerToAnimals]

Hello

Current into my 5th day of cycling a 20G AIO. Opted to do a completely dry start. Tried ghost feeding for two days (using Reef Roids [I know, I know, what a pricey thing to use for ghost feeding, but it's all I have on hand at the moment]).

Went out on my 3rd cycling day to get some Seachem Stability, and so I'm dosing that at the moment to speed up the cycle.

My question is: what sort of parameter changes should I expect with this method?

There's no ammonia source as I've stopped ghost feeding so will the bac in the Stability itself die and produce it? Or will none of the spikes occur and the bac will just chill in the tank for 7 days (recommended dosage period of Stability) until ammonia is introduced via the addition of fish?

Didn't want to try the dropping-a-frozen-piece-of-fish method because I'm a bit paranoid about introducing parasites so I want everything to be as clean as possible, especially now as I start out.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hello

Current into my 5th day of cycling a 20G AIO. Opted to do a completely dry start. Tried ghost feeding for two days (using Reef Roids [I know, I know, what a pricey thing to use for ghost feeding, but it's all I have on hand at the moment]).

Went out on my 3rd cycling day to get some Seachem Stability, and so I'm dosing that at the moment to speed up the cycle.

My question is: what sort of parameter changes should I expect with this method?

There's no ammonia source as I've stopped ghost feeding so will the bac in the Stability itself die and produce it? Or will none of the spikes occur and the bac will just chill in the tank for 7 days (recommended dosage period of Stability) until ammonia is introduced via the addition of fish?

Didn't want to try the dropping-a-frozen-piece-of-fish method because I'm a bit paranoid about introducing parasites so I want everything to be as clean as possible, especially now as I start out.

Any rise in ammonia level should be diminished with use of Stability and its bacteria cultures.

 

[ScottR]

Hello

Current into my 5th day of cycling a 20G AIO. Opted to do a completely dry start. Tried ghost feeding for two days (using Reef Roids [I know, I know, what a pricey thing to use for ghost feeding, but it's all I have on hand at the moment]).

Went out on my 3rd cycling day to get some Seachem Stability, and so I'm dosing that at the moment to speed up the cycle.

My question is: what sort of parameter changes should I expect with this method?

There's no ammonia source as I've stopped ghost feeding so will the bac in the Stability itself die and produce it? Or will none of the spikes occur and the bac will just chill in the tank for 7 days (recommended dosage period of Stability) until ammonia is introduced via the addition of fish?

Didn't want to try the dropping-a-frozen-piece-of-fish method because I'm a bit paranoid about introducing parasites so I want everything to be as clean as possible, especially now as I start out.

First off, what are you testing for now? With what kits and what are your parameters that you’re testing for at?

The reef roids route is interesting as I’ve told myself I’d use it when I cycle my next tank. The roids will break down into ammonia > the bacteria in stability will break in into nitrites then nitrates. Nitrates are way less toxic to fish and if you’re below 40 ppm it’s ok to add fish but don’t add too much at once. The bioload might be too much at once for the bacteria to break down.

 

[ScottR]

And to add to this, make sure ammonia stays at zero and nitrites also are at zero before adding in anything live.

 

[SpeakerToAnimals]

First off, what are you testing for now? With what kits and what are your parameters that you’re testing for at?

The reef roids route is interesting as I’ve told myself I’d use it when I cycle my next tank. The roids will break down into ammonia > the bacteria in stability will break in into nitrites then nitrates. Nitrates are way less toxic to fish and if you’re below 40 ppm it’s ok to add fish but don’t add too much at once. The bioload might be too much at once for the bacteria to break down.

That's the thing, I'm not sure what to test for because I'm not sure what to expect with this method.

I've been testing for ammonia everyday since the ghost feeding, expecting the ammonia to spike after the food breaks down. But so far it's been at 0 ppm.

I checked Nitrate and Nitrite earlier today because I thought maybe the cycle had somehow already advanced to those stages but they're at zero as well.

I'm using an API kit. I heard they're a bit unreliable but I don't think they're completely useless for observing cycling spikes. Are they that bad?

 

[ScottR]

That's the thing, I'm not sure what to test for because I'm not sure what to expect with this method.

I've been testing for ammonia everyday since the ghost feeding, expecting the ammonia to spike after the food breaks down. But so far it's been at 0 ppm.

I checked Nitrate and Nitrite earlier today because I thought maybe the cycle had somehow already advanced to those stages but they're at zero as well.

I'm using an API kit. I heard they're a bit unreliable but I don't think they're completely useless for observing cycling spikes. Are they that bad?

I’ve never used API. From what I’ve heard, their ammonia kit is good but everything else isn’t. Most people trust Salifert kits. Red Sea is also popular. I use Salifert. Nitrites are very important when checking during a cycle. It’s odd that you have zero nitrates though. Nitrate removal is much more difficult but tolerated by fish. I’d get a more reliable kit as it will be crucial in the long run. If you want to continue adding reef roids, you can. But just make sure that you’re in lights out mode as you may get crazy algae growth. I wouldn’t even add every day. You can use it to test the strength of your bacteria.