Question for Hanna Checker Owners

[HumuhumuFan]

Have you found they are worth the money and if so what order would you recommend buying them in for the average reefer? IE, can you rank them in importance particularly when replacing reagent test kits.

 

[Booger McMoron]

In for the reply’s.

 

[wesman42]

I have the alkalinity, phosphate, and copper checkers. They're worth it in the aspect that it doesn't really save time...but it saves the hassle of reading colors or color changes. Reading reviews though, you will certainly find they have their own fair share of problems (mostly with reagents). Is it worth it? yes. It is going to be the be-all-end-all that saves you time? no.

 

[Firemanreefkeeper]

I'd start with an alk checker. For me, reading a number is easier then looking for a color. Then I'd go with calcium and phosphate checker. Calcium is a little more intense as it takes a few more steps to get the results. People do complain about the results being apart after back to back to back tests but the box with say the results can be off by 5% +or- 10 either way. My alk checker is usually inside of .2dkh with back to back tests. Making sure vials are cleaned and dried properly after each test is another must. I will never go back to color tests and will only switch if something better comes out that's not $500 plus some high priced controller to read it.

 

[SDK]

My first Hanna purchase, and the one I find most valuable is the copper tester.

Pinpointing the right copper level in either a therapeutic or treatment scenario can be the difference between life and death for a fish. I set up my most recent QT while my checker was in transit, so I used the dosing calculators to add Copper Power. Even after measuring in the water, I was far enough off that I was below therapeutic level.

My next two in order will be PO4 and Alk. My phosphate is low enough that color reagents are a challenge to interpret. With my NYOS kit, I know I am above zero and below .04. Good information to have, but am looking forward to a more accurate reading...

 

[SDK]

Triple post

 

[DarkSky]

I have Hanna Alk, Hanna Phosphate ULR (make sure you get the ULR ppm version), and Hanna Copper checkers. The calcium seems to have issues with accuracy due to the difficulty in using it with the powder reagent, so I didn't get that (plus I don't need to check calcium all that often).

I'm considering getting the Hanna salinity checker next.

 

[Kyl]

The dKH is my most useful piece of equipment for the tank outside of life support equipment. PO4 is also very good, though some have difficulty using it correctly as there are specific timed steps and the reagent is powdered. I also use the HR copper checker for my QT systems, it has made things so much easier to both ramp copper levels and maintain theraputic without going to dangerous points.

All told I have four Hanna products, and would buy each of them again in a heartbeat.

dKH
ULR Phosphorous
HR Copper
Salinity

 

[TexasReefer82]

100% worth it!!!

For the average reefer I'd recommend Alkalinity and the Ultra Low Range Phosphate.

These testers remove a large amount of error compared to the standard titration tests that require the user to compare colors. Also, there is no other phosphate test on the market that will accurately measure phosphate in such a low range.

 

[Js.Aqua.Project]

I use the Ca, dKH, and ULR Phosphorus checkers. They make life simpler in the fact that they give you an exact number vs trying to use a titration kit and figure out if the color is right or not. They are a little sensitive in needing to make sure the vials are clean and always oriented the same way, but other than that I am pleased and would most likely buy them again.

Maybe @Rick Mathew would like to weigh in too.

 

[pickupman66]

I have the standard phosphate and the Alkalinity checkers. I 100% recommend these two at least to your testing arsenal. they remove all guess work and make it SO EASY. worth every penny for me.

 

[JimFuller]

I have Alkalinity, Phosphate, and Calcium checkers. I got them in the order listed. I find them easier to use. I do cross check them with another test kit from time to time. The calcium gas the most steps. The Alkalinity is the quickest and gives a great indication to what is happening in your tank.

 

[BestMomEver]

Alkalinity, calcium, phosphate... in that order. Yes, they are worth the money cause I can’t always detect color changes in other kits. I only wish they’d make one for magnesium.

 

[K7BMG]

I am new to reefing not saltwater fish keeping however.
This is my take on the all test kits across the board.

All of them are hobby level kits, used by hobbyists, not experienced trained lab people, that have proper cleaning equipment, followed by proper cleaning procedures, and pristine clean testing areas.
We have way to many variables introduced into our testing, no matter how careful we think we are. So our results will not always be the same or accurate.

However the test kits we have are a solid base line average, not dead on accurate kits, and should be used and interpreted in such a manor.
So no matter the kit you buy it should work good enough to let you know what's happening with your water column.
I would not recommend mix and match (reason below) but pick a set and keep moving on.

I have the following kits.

Milwaukee Refractometer
ATC Portable Refractometer

Hanna
Alkalinity HI 772
Phosphorus ULR HI 736
Calcium HI 758
Iron HI 721
Nitrite ULR N02 HI 764
PH Plus probe.

API master Seawater kit.

Red Sea
Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca, Alk, Mg)

Salifert
Ammonia
Nitrate N03

My conclusion is I prefer the Hanna's.
No more difficult to use than the others no more guessing what color matches the color card. You get a direct number that can be compared to the last test, so I know positively if the result is growing or declining.

The color comparison IMO leaves something to be desired and adds to the problem.
Humm with my last test, lets see, did I compare and determine the color to be darker or lighter so did I round up or round off my number? So in a way your testing with a guess.

When I came to the end of my cycle and started testing for Nitrate's No3.
My Salifert and API Nitrate No3 test always contradicted each other.
Hanna and API Nitrites No2 were very high both over the top results, Ammonia tested 0 so I was expecting to see No3 start to rise
and began testing.

First Test
Nitrite No2 by Hanna 200+ API 5.0 ppm+
Nitrate No3 API 20, Salifert 100+

Next test
Nitrite N02 by Hanna 81 API 1.0
Nitrate No3 API 40+, Salifert 50

Next test
Nitrite N02 by Hanna 20, API 0.25
Nitrate N03 API 80 Salifert 20

Final test
Nitrite N02 by Hanna 10 API 0
Nitrate N03 API 80+ Salifert 0

So what test is correct?
I was told Salifert was the better kit. But how can it be accurate if the N02 is falling and yet the Salifert N03 is also falling?
I gather there might be something in my water column, or my procedure that is throwing off my Salifert test somehow.

I have taken in water samples to my LFS to compare my API kit with the ones they use and both results are identical.
Take my word for it they do not operate with clean pristine test kits and area. They use whatever tube for what ever test.

I know I have written a novel here and if your still reading thanks.
I hope this info helps in some way, or at least brings in some feedback as to why the Salifert was showing reverse results.
The expiration dates on my kits are not until the end of 2020.

But between my test kits comparing test for test other than the one Nitrate N03 difference all my kits, Hanna, API, and RedSea match results, across the board, on ALK, Calcium, Nitrite, Etc.

 

[JS_racer]

like most, i have the alk and the ulr phosphorus , the 755 and 736. they work very well.
the copper i understand why people love it, i haven't had the need yet, but if i ever do, it will be an easy purchase.

as far as calcium, i have always used salifert, just picked up the redsea pro calcuim to try. seems the hanna checker is finikey, or use to be, and the tests are expensive in comparison to. checking 2 or 3 tanks, its easy to burn through the reagents. (salifert mag test user too)

 

[Oldreefer44]

I use DKH because found it more accurate than others. Use ULR phosphate but hate the reagent packets because the are very hard to get all of the powder into the vial. How accurate can they be if a few granules miss the vial.

 

[rushbattle]

I am new to reefing not saltwater fish keeping however.
This is my take on the all test kits across the board.

All of them are hobby level kits, used by hobbyists, not experienced trained lab people, that have proper cleaning equipment, followed by proper cleaning procedures, and pristine clean testing areas.
We have way to many variables introduced into our testing, no matter how careful we think we are. So our results will not always be the same or accurate.

However the test kits we have are a solid base line average, not dead on accurate kits, and should be used and interpreted in such a manor.
So no matter the kit you buy it should work good enough to let you know what's happening with your water column.
I would not recommend mix and match (reason below) but pick a set and keep moving on.

I have the following kits.

Milwaukee Refractometer
ATC Portable Refractometer

Hanna
Alkalinity HI 772
Phosphorus ULR HI 736
Calcium HI 758
Iron HI 721
Nitrite ULR N02 HI 764
PH Plus probe.

API master Seawater kit.

Red Sea
Reef Foundation Pro Multi Test Kit (Ca, Alk, Mg)

Salifert
Ammonia
Nitrate N03

My conclusion is I prefer the Hanna's.
No more difficult to use than the others no more guessing what color matches the color card. You get a direct number that can be compared to the last test, so I know positively if the result is growing or declining.

The color comparison IMO leaves something to be desired and adds to the problem.
Humm with my last test, lets see, did I compare and determine the color to be darker or lighter so did I round up or round off my number? So in a way your testing with a guess.

When I came to the end of my cycle and started testing for Nitrate's No3.
My Salifert and API Nitrate No3 test always contradicted each other.
Hanna and API Nitrites No2 were very high both over the top results, Ammonia tested 0 so I was expecting to see No3 start to rise
and began testing.

First Test
Nitrite No2 by Hanna 200+ API 5.0 ppm+
Nitrate No3 API 20, Salifert 100+

Next test
Nitrite N02 by Hanna 81 API 1.0
Nitrate No3 API 40+, Salifert 50

Next test
Nitrite N02 by Hanna 20, API 0.25
Nitrate N03 API 80 Salifert 20

Final test
Nitrite N02 by Hanna 10 API 0
Nitrate N03 API 80+ Salifert 0

So what test is correct?
I was told Salifert was the better kit. But how can it be accurate if the N02 is falling and yet the Salifert N03 is also falling?
I gather there might be something in my water column, or my procedure that is throwing off my Salifert test somehow.

I have taken in water samples to my LFS to compare my API kit with the ones they use and both results are identical.
Take my word for it they do not operate with clean pristine test kits and area. They use whatever tube for what ever test.

I know I have written a novel here and if your still reading thanks.
I hope this info helps in some way, or at least brings in some feedback as to why the Salifert was showing reverse results.
The expiration dates on my kits are not until the end of 2020.

But between my test kits comparing test for test other than the one Nitrate N03 difference all my kits, Hanna, API, and RedSea match results, across the board, on ALK, Calcium, Nitrite, Etc.

NO2 interferes with NO3 testing. That is expected.

 

[rushbattle]

I use DKH because found it more accurate than others. Use ULR phosphate but hate the reagent packets because the are very hard to get all of the powder into the vial. How accurate can they be if a few granules miss the vial.

It doesn’t effect the results. If an exact amount of reagent was required for that method it would be much more expensive and would come in tablets or liquid reagent.

 

[rushbattle]

The ULR tester is a bit of a gimmick but works just fine. The standard PO4 tester is the same method, just reads in different units. They both work exactly the same so either work well.

 

[HumuhumuFan]

Thanks for detailed responses everyone. I bought the Copper unit because I was going to prophylactically treat fish going forward, but I'm having second thoughts about it. In any case, I have it if I need it and that's a good thing. I am planning on buying the alkalinity checker next.

One thing I was told a while ago, that I was suspicious of but also kind of makes sense, is that the API Phosphate kit is fine for the average hobbyist, especially since I was only keeping fish at the time. The theory was that you really just need to that it either is zero, or it isn't.