Question for people not using controllers and opt to use Timers & switches instead.

[marcballz]

Question for people not using controllers and opt to use Timers & switches instead.

What do you run on your timers, and what on/off cycle times do you run?

I currently run my return sump pump, skimmer, & external 2nd cheto/fuge return pump on the same timer to conserve energy & money on my bill. All pumps turn on at the same time at 9pm and off at 6am.I also have a gyre in my display running 60% during the day when the sump return pump is off & running at 30% at night when the timer turns those units back on at 9pm.
i also run 2 switches, 1 for my r/o topoff tank to sump & another switch for my gfo reactor pump. (how ever i will be putting a timer on this reactor to be on at 9pm and off 6am as well? )
in my fuge area i also run a mini power head for circulation and an air pump for oxygen & of course a heaters in display & fuge as well.
i also run my lights on timmers display t5 on at 3pm off 10:30 & fuge light on 10pm off 3pm.
any insight or opinions are appreciated.

 

[KJAG]

You run your return on a timer?

 

[marcballz]

yess but i have a gyre in display that runs 60% when the return is off & 30% when everything is online. doing this has saved me money on my electric bill & water evaporation.

 

[KJAG]

Depending on your brand of return pump, there are some out there which are extremely efficient. I think my Reeflo operates at approx 150 watts? You said you're operating a heater, a power head, and an air pump in your sump area while your return is off. What sort of wattage differentials are you saving, just curious?
Also, just a concern on the heaters: many a tank has gotten nuked by failing to run a heater on a controller. For instance, early on in the hobby I had two Jager heaters stick "On" and had one full system crash, and almost had another until I wired them to a controller.

 

[Bao]

I don't think people actually run the return pump on a timer at all.
All the people that I know always run the return pump 24/7. Some people will run a skimmer for certain hours of the day and turn it off but I think that is quite inefficient. If you are worry about the electricity cost of those pumps, then get a good DC pumps that don't use much electricity and also you don't need such a powerful pump as well.

Timer on the reactors for GFO and Carbon is absolutely a bad idea. Can't do it. Once you turn off the flow to the reactor, most of the bacteria will die and smell quite badly. Once you turn on the reactor, all those dead stuffs will flow into your system.

Most of the systems that are well connected, you only need heater in the sump to heat up water for the whole system. Don't need heaters in the display and then in the fuge.

There are different ways to save electricity and cost of a reef tank but there are some pumps that need to run 24/7. What is your system like? How big is it? and what kind of corals and critters that you want to keep? List all of those information here and other people will help you to set up your system.

 

[cjd]

So you are saying that you are only filtering the water for 9 hrs. in a 24 hour period. I don't think that would be advisable for long term success. How long have you been running the system like this?? I could see only running the skimmer for a period of time and lowering the gyre during nighttime hours , but turning off the return pump? Maybe during feeding and tank maintenance, other than that??

 

[marcballz]

I use a Iwaki md-20rxt with max flow of 822gph & 8ft head but i only have 4ft head hight. My gyre pump is capable to do 3000gph so I believe it's enough flow & breaking of water surface to keep my return pump off for a few hours. I honestly don't know how many kilowatts am saving but i see the difference in my elec bill... during the summer time my bill would be 200ish for a small 2 bed apt with minimum insulation in tx, right now my bill is at 110 avg since i put more equipment on timers.

since im running more things on timers it raises questions on the on/off times to run certain equipment.. & also of the effects of water chemistry shifts in those 10ish hours off line.

 

[marcballz]

I don't think people actually run the return pump on a timer at all.
All the people that I know always run the return pump 24/7. Some people will run a skimmer for certain hours of the day and turn it off but I think that is quite inefficient. If you are worry about the electricity cost of those pumps, then get a good DC pumps that don't use much electricity and also you don't need such a powerful pump as well.

Timer on the reactors for GFO and Carbon is absolutely a bad idea. Can't do it. Once you turn off the flow to the reactor, most of the bacteria will die and smell quite badly. Once you turn on the reactor, all those dead stuffs will flow into your system.

Most of the systems that are well connected, you only need heater in the sump to heat up water for the whole system. Don't need heaters in the display and then in the fuge.

There are different ways to save electricity and cost of a reef tank but there are some pumps that need to run 24/7. What is your system like? How big is it? and what kind of corals and critters that you want to keep? List all of those information here and other people will help you to set up your system.

i used to run my iwaka return pump 24/7 but decided to try it on a timer.. its been about 8 moths ive been running it like this now and has been effective on kw used.

& the gfo/carbon recator has stayed on for about a month straight now. (no timer noted)

since im running my system in this manner, i needed a heater in my 90 gal display to maintain water temp when return pump is off. and i keep a 2nd heater in my 2nd fuge tank to keep that tank and sump temperature maintained since they are plumbed into the sump

90 gal display
30 gal sump
30 gal 2nd fuge w/ cheto
2 inch sand bed
150lbs live rock
skimmer
lps/sps fish
doser pump

 

[marcballz]

So you are saying that you are only filtering the water for 9 hrs. in a 24 hour period. I don't think that would be advisable for long term success. How long have you been running the system like this?? I could see only running the skimmer for a period of time and lowering the gyre during nighttime hours , but turning off the return pump? Maybe during feeding and tank maintenance, other than that??

yes thats what im saying and have been running it like this for the past 8months with no death or bleaching. im not sure but i wanna believe the amount of live rock, sand bed, skimmer and cheto might justify for the filtration system and return pumps being off for those 9hrs.

 

[Bao]

You can use this link and calculate exactly how much money it cost you to run your equipment:
http://reefcentral.com/index.php/tank-electrical

I think it is more efficient to run return pump 24/7 and only run heaters in the sump to heat the whole tank.
If you only want LPS, then no need for the Dosing pump, so save electricity and cost of the pumps there.
150 lbs of rocks is a lot for 90 gallons tank. More rock isn't always better. If you have lot of rocks with little flow, debris will get trapped and turn into nitrate and phosphate. Then you need more money to deal with nitrate and phosphate.

 

[marcballz]

You can use this link and calculate exactly how much money it cost you to run your equipment:
http://reefcentral.com/index.php/tank-electrical

I think it is more efficient to run return pump 24/7 and only run heaters in the sump to heat the whole tank.
If you only want LPS, then no need for the Dosing pump, so save electricity and cost of the pumps there.
150 lbs of rocks is a lot for 90 gallons tank. More rock isn't always better. If you have lot of rocks with little flow, debris will get trapped and turn into nitrate and phosphate. Then you need more money to deal with nitrate and phosphate.

lemme check out that calculator... and its a total of 130ish gallons of water in the complete system (display/sump/2nd fuge). also i used to have x4 1400 powerheads on a red sea wave controller before, but just swapped to an ice cap gyre that has up to 3000gph (way better flow and it moves all the detritus off the sand & rocks! and another energy saving upgrade) about 2 weeks ago.

 

[marcballz]

Question for people not using controllers and opt to use Timers & switches instead.

What do you run on your timers, and what on/off cycle times do you run?

I currently run my return sump pump, skimmer, & external 2nd cheto/fuge return pump on the same timer to conserve energy & money on my bill. All that equipment turn on at the same time at 9pm and off at 6am.I also have a gyre in my display running 60% during the day pointing up to break water surface when the sump return pump/filtration sytem is offline & running at 30% at night when the timer turns those units back on at 9pm.

I currently run 2 on/off switches, 1 for my manual r/o top off tank that is plumbed into my sump & another switch for my gfo reactor pump. (how ever i might put that on a timer to turn on 9pm and off 6am as well?maybe )

In my 2nd fuge tank I run a mini power head for circulation and an air pump & stone for oxygen, a heater that maintains the sump and 2nd fuge tank temperature similar to the display tank .This tank has sand, rock rubble in mesh baggies, copa pods, and my cheto.

I also run my lights on timmers display tank 4 bulb ho t5's on at 3pm off 10:30 & fuge light on 10pm off 3pm.

90gal display (heater/3000gph gyre/4 ho bulb t5)
30gal sump (skimmer reefocto classic_110int/gfo-carbon reactor/2nd fuge return pump sicce 150gph/iwaka md-20rxt 850gph display return pump/jeabao 4 pump doser lines/manual ro top off/10 lbs? miracle mud/red algea)

30 gal 2nd fuge (air pump/heater/mini powerhead/sand/rock rubble in mesh bags/cheto&pods/fuge light)[was supposed to be a qt tank but pods are life]
150lb live rock
130lb of sand in combination

live stock:
rba
acans
favias
zoa/polys
open brain
plate
birds nest
frog
hammer
xenia
2 clowns
1 wrasse
snails
starfish
emerald crab
amphi/copa pods

any insight or opinions are appreciated.

 

[Seyoz]

Question for people not using controllers and opt to use Timers & switches instead.

What do you run on your timers, and what on/off cycle times do you run?

I currently run my return sump pump, skimmer, & external 2nd cheto/fuge return pump on the same timer to conserve energy & money on my bill. All pumps turn on at the same time at 9pm and off at 6am.I also have a gyre in my display running 60% during the day when the sump return pump is off & running at 30% at night when the timer turns those units back on at 9pm.
i also run 2 switches, 1 for my r/o topoff tank to sump & another switch for my gfo reactor pump. (how ever i will be putting a timer on this reactor to be on at 9pm and off 6am as well? )
in my fuge area i also run a mini power head for circulation and an air pump for oxygen & of course a heaters in display & fuge as well.
i also run my lights on timmers display t5 on at 3pm off 10:30 & fuge light on 10pm off 3pm.
any insight or opinions are appreciated.

Very interesting, a concept I been working on for My Tidal Build. But never heard of anyone else, til now think about completely sump on or off. More intervals on my end..But cool to hear it's working for you..

Most would say 10x+/- on sump turnover rate from your DC pump, instead of 0-30% near half day... Typically run difference 20-30% over full day wo break period. But I understand both ends of this argument!

I know it works, but cool to hear another like mind.

 

[Seyoz]

People fear difference, Basically a setup going Berlin from circulation and the sump is more/less a surge like an aquarium style filtration..

 

[Seyoz]

Bigger tanks bend rules, most don't use as much Liverock cause they can't afford it or it hurts to think that's their systems backbone filtration: Berlin....With timed skimming section...But uses refug as biological absorbtion instead of skimmer and algae for scrubbing biological skimming!

 

[marcballz]

update: my system details

90gal display (heater/3000gph gyre/4 ho bulb t5)

30gal sump (skimmer reefocto classic_110int/gfo-carbon reactor/2nd fuge return pump sicce 150gph/iwaka md-20rxt 850gph display return pump/jeabao 4 pump doser lines dosing 30ml aqua forest componet 123+/manual ro top off/10 lbs? miracle mud/red algea)

30 gal 2nd fuge (air pump/heater/mini powerhead/sand/rock rubble in mesh bags/cheto&pods/fuge light)[was supposed to be a qt tank but pods are life]

150lb rock in combination(fiji,pukany,brach,shelf,marco)
130lb of sand in combination
ro/di water system
aqua forest salt
aqua forest 3 part dosing

live stock:
rba
acans
favias
zoa/polys
open brain
plate
birds nest
frog
hammer
xenia
2 clowns
1 wrasse
snails
starfish
emerald crab
amphi/copa pods

 

[Seyoz]

9/10 of us got scared buying our first major piece of LiveRock. But after buying And experiencing ease of bigger pieces are so happy with look and function of use. When you have bigger pieces there is little to none: nooks or crannys.

But those that bargain hunted and ultimately ended up with smaller pieces, yes would be a detritus pile!

More rock makes a tank, you just have to have "the eye" when arranging proper aquascaping!

People going after your choice in live rock are cheap and trolling your dynamic system..Let the hater's hate!

 

[marcballz]

Bigger tanks bend rules, most don't use as much Liverock cause they can't afford it or it hurts to think that's their systems backbone filtration: Berlin....With timed skimming section...But uses refug as biological absorbtion instead of skimmer and algae for scrubbing biological skimming!

i got a good deal and drove 600 miles to get 200lbs of lr for 100.00$
& i do run my skimmer on a timer..on at 9:00 pm off 6 am but i also run my main return pump and 2nd fuge pump that has pods/cheto on the same timer schedule so the whole filtration/pump system runs for 10hrs on.

 

[marcballz]

9/10 of us got scared buying our first major piece of LiveRock. But after buying And experiencing ease of bigger pieces are so happy with look and function of use. When you have bigger pieces there is little to none: nooks or crannys.

But those that bargain hunted and ultimately ended up with smaller pieces, yes would be a detritus pile!

More rock makes a tank, you just have to have "the eye" when arranging proper aquascaping!

People going after your choice in live rock are cheap and trolling your dynamic system..Let the hater's hate!

lol its cool it was primo rock, fiji,pukany, branching, and few shelf pieces. all acid dipped and cycled blah blah blah

 

[Seyoz]

I always pack at much rock especially in my main systems. Literally waiting for that special shaped rock.. id rather pay for something beautiful, efficient, and easy to manager when having to do bigger spring cleaning!