Question for Sunpower Users with Attached ReefBrite Strips

[LobsterOfJustice]

1. Does anyone run without the acrylic shield? From what I can tell, this slides in/out from the end of the fixture. This will not work well for me since the fixture will be used inside an enclosed hood/canopy.

2. In an 8 bulb fixture, which two bulb positions are controlled by the separate plug?

3. Does an attached ReefBrite Strip (or two) add shimmer? Assuming I may need the strongest ReefBrite (XHO) in order to not get washed out by 8 T5 bulbs. Although, the clustering of the LEDs on the tech strip might give better shimmer?

4. How much width does an attached ReefBrite strip add?

5. Can you attach a 72" ReefBrite to a 60" Sunpower fixture, or does the ReefBrite have to be the same length as the fixture? Just not familiar with the exact method of mounting.

6. I can probably look this up but might as well ask while I have your attention... any way to dim ReefBrites via Apex?

 

[sfmacguy]

Questions I can answer not being in front of the tank:
1. Acrylic shield protects the bulbs etc from water, its a splash guard. You can run without, but are more likely to have the reflectors rust etc.

3. The reefbrite does add some shimmer, I had a Tech model, and a 6 bulb ati, and was pleasantly surprised.

4. It adds about 4" to the light, per Reefbrite.

5. You can NOT put a reefbrite that's longer than the light unless you custom fit some longer brackets. It basically mounts on the ATI corner screws.

Hope this helps

 

[PerplexyHexy]

I was under the impression the acrylic guard had something to do with heat dispersion when the fans kicked on... maybe Im wrong... thought I read that somewhere

 

[sfmacguy]

I was under the impression the acrylic guard had something to do with heat dispersion when the fans kicked on... maybe Im wrong... thought I read that somewhere

Could very well with heat dispersion as well.

 

[wcharon]

Hummmmmm. I don't get the shimmer but i really get the pop on the corals. Probably it is due to my combination of bulbs. In my case i have a 6x80 with 3B+, 1C+, 1P+ and 1 True Actinic. I also have the 72" Blue XHO on front and 2 36" Blue Tech on the back.

They are not attached to the Sunpower but to the Canopy.

Hope that helps.

 

[mrpizzaface]

I don’t think it is recommended to run the sun power in an enclosed canopy due to heat issues. I would make sure there was plenty of open space on the top of the canopy. It would also be good to have side vents in the canopy with a computer fan evacuating the hot air. The heat can shorten the lifespan of this fixture.

 

[solitude127]

What makes ATI T5 fixtures so good is the active cooling. If you remove the shield it eliminates some of the bulb cooling which will shorten the life of the bulb and decrease the performance. If you install in a canopy, make sure there's ways for the heat to escape.

 

[wcharon]

I don’t think it is recommended to run the sun power in an enclosed canopy due to heat issues. I would make sure there was plenty of open space on the top of the canopy. It would also be good to have side vents in the canopy with a computer fan evacuating the hot air. The heat can shorten the lifespan of this fixture.

Thanks for the tip. Actually my canopy is open top and the T5 is hanging from the ceiling. On top of that i have 2 fans in the back.

 

[LobsterOfJustice]

Based on the BRS video about cooling T5 bulbs, it seems that it’s most important to cool the “cool spot” on the bulb and not necessary to cool the entire bulb, and this seems to more or less happen with or without the shield. I have about 18” of height in the canopy so I could have the fixture maybe 10” off the water which I think would reduce the chance of splashes.

Overall, the canopy is not tight on space... really canopy isn’t the right word. Depending on mounting height I’d have 8-12” above the fixture and over a foot to either side. The canopy air space is open down the sides of the tank and includes under the tank as well (no water under the tank, remote sump). I could easily put some circulation fans into the cabinetry if needed. I could also open up the top (likely how I will have to get the fixture into the cabinet if I go this route) but I don’t think I want to leave the top open because I’m worried about light spill.

The reason I’m partial to the fixture is that it’s the most efficient way to pack as many bulbs in as little space. My tank is built into a wall so I lose the thickness of the wall (4”) in terms of what I can fit over the tank. I only have 20” of space in the canopy front to back even though the tank is 24”. I have 4 bulbs in there now with retrofits but I would only have space to add one more retro for a total of 6 bulbs.