Question on Quarantine Setup

icedearth15324

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I currently have a powder blue tang that is showing signs of ich. Due to my tank now having ich, I plan on removing all of the fish to quarantine and run fallow.

Fish list consists of a powder blue, foxface, 3 yellow tangs, flame angel, and a huma trigger.

I was curious though on people's opinions on what they feel is a better option.

I'm buying a 65g tank today that will be the temporary home of my fish while my display runs fallow. I also have a 20long tank at home, and could buy another.

I will be using copper safe, and have a hanna checker to monitor.

Option 1 - Move all fish into the 65G and run copper for 30 days, then remove copper and let fish stay there for the next 60 days while tank is fallow.

Option 2 - Setup 2 20G tanks, and run copper for 14 days in both, then transfer to 65G for observation while tank remains fallow.

Option 3 - Move all fish into 20G, and do TTM, then once the 14 days of TTM is done, move into 65G for observation for remainder.

I'm really just trying to figure out what would be the most efficient, and least dangerous method.
 
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I don’t think 20g is large enough for TTM with those fish so I would rule that one out.
 
I currently have a powder blue tang that is showing signs of ich. Due to my tank now having ich, I plan on removing all of the fish to quarantine and run fallow.

Fish list consists of a powder blue, foxface, 3 yellow tangs, flame angel, and a huma trigger.

I was curious though on people's opinions on what they feel is a better option.

I'm buying a 65g tank today that will be the temporary home of my fish while my display runs fallow. I also have a 20long tank at home, and could buy another.

Option 1 - Move all fish into the 65G and run copper for 30 days, then remove copper and let fish stay there for the next 60 days while tank is fallow.

Option 2 - Setup 2 20G tanks, and run copper for 14 days in both, then transfer to 65G for observation while tank remains fallow.

Option 2 - Move all fish into 20G, and do TTM, then once the 14 days of TTM is done, move into 65G for observation for remainder.

I'm really just trying to figure out what would be the most efficient, and least dangerous method.
Option 1 is my preference. The copper protocol requires 30 days to be effective. Then you will be able to remove the copper and treat with prazi before eventually moving them into the display tank.

Also, review the sticky about 45 day fallow. You may decide to move back to the DT on a shorter interval.
 
Personally, I like option 1 the best of the those 3. But I would change a couple things.

I don't like removing copper. I know there is a treatment protocol for running copper for 30 days, and then removing copper and then observing. I would always move fish to a different tank or straight into the display over removing copper and keeping them in the same tank. Some folks might disagree, but I see it as a risk for the tomonts (cysts) to release the free swimmers and you won't have copper to protect you.

You're talking 90 days fallow? That really isn't necessary. If you can get the display tank to 80 degrees, fallow shouldn't need to be any longer than 45 days. So I would just use Copper Power at 2.0 ppm until the fallow is over, and then put them right back into the display.

If those aggressive fish start killing each other in the 65 gallon, that throws a monkey wrench into things, but you could use the 20 gallon to split them up.

If the tank isn't a reef, then hypo in the display is a good option. Just leave the fish in there.
 
Personally, I like option 1 the best of the those 3. But I would change a couple things.

I don't like removing copper. I know there is a treatment protocol for running copper for 30 days, and then removing copper and then observing. I would always move fish to a different tank or straight into the display over removing copper and keeping them in the same tank. Some folks might disagree, but I see it as a risk for the tomonts (cysts) to release the free swimmers and you won't have copper to protect you.

You're talking 90 days fallow? That really isn't necessary. If you can get the display tank to 80 degrees, fallow shouldn't need to be any longer than 45 days. So I would just use Copper Power at 2.0 ppm until the fallow is over, and then put them right back into the display.

If those aggressive fish start killing each other in the 65 gallon, that throws a monkey wrench into things, but you could use the 20 gallon to split them up.

If the tank isn't a reef, then hypo in the display is a good option. Just leave the fish in there.
It is a reef, but I intend on actually doing a slight teardown of my tank because my rocks are also overrun with brown star polyps that I really really really really want to get rid of. Although, maybe if I remove my nems I could just do hypo and let the hypo kill off the bsp...
 
Option 1 and use coppersafe instead of copper at 2.25-2.5 . . . at 80.5 deg and monitor with reliable copper test kit- Not Api either
add aeration to the QT tank and also monitor ammonia and nitrate levels with the number of fish you will have in there
 
Option 1 and use coppersafe instead of copper at 2.25-2.5 . . . at 80.5 deg and monitor with reliable copper test kit- Not Api either
add aeration to the QT tank and also monitor ammonia and nitrate levels with the number of fish you will have in there
I'm going to be using copper safe and a Hanna checker. I'll add those to my OP.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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