Questions about the Triton Method

bcpitts · Aug 16, 2017

First the background info...

I have a 300 gallon mixed reef that I would say is sps dominated. For equipment, I am currently running a MRC calcium reactor with magnesium crystals added. I have an Aquamedic kalk reactor as well that is ran through my ato but only when the PH is below 2.5. If the PH is above that the tank is topped off from another top off container with just RO/DI. I have a 4o watt UV and run a RO SSS3000 internal skimmer. The sump has 3 filter sock and I currently do not run carbon or GFO. I have a huge amount of cheato already so that fits with their model.

Now to the questions....

I am thinking of switching to the Triton method but have some questions. My questions are as follows:
1. Would I need to get rid of my calcium and kalk reactors and just use their recommended products?
2. Is this method really effective on larger systems from a cost perspective as well as overall efficiency.
3. Can I still us my UV?
4. Should I get rid of the filter socks.

Just looking for some info from anyone who is currently either converting their system over or someone who is currently following their methods. It would be a plus if you have a larger system so that I can get an apples to apples comparison on some of the questions.

Thanks!

DipSpit · Aug 16, 2017

Following along - as I have some of the same lingering questions.

The Triton guide does say to discontinue the use of UV sterilization (and filter socks) but I still cant think of a reason - chemically - to discontinue UV.

When I decide to switch I will continue to use UV.

bcpitts · Aug 17, 2017

No one using this method or can provide any additional insight?

Greybeard · Aug 17, 2017

I'll bite

My system is about half that size, so I'm not certain about how well my experience, as brief as it's been, will approach yours. I'm no expert, been using Triton for a few months now on a new tank. I'm a long time reefer, and studied the Triton system long and hard before my own implementation. I'm happy with it, so far. As you appear to be a pretty serious hobbyist yourself, you likely know everything I'm going to say, but I'll give my $0.02 anyway

CA/rx: The Core7 4pt is meant to be dosed in equal parts, targeting alkalinity as a dosing measurement. Seems to me, a CA/rx system would push calcium and alkalinity demand way, way down, since your Calc/Alk is maintained by the reactor. You'd be dosing way less than what someone without a CA/rx would be dosing... likely lowering all of the other components of the Core7 below where they should be. If I were running a CA/rx, I'd likely not try and dose Core7, since the two are targeting the same basic needs.

UV: Triton recommends against UV not because it changes anything chemically, but because 'life' is part of the Triton system, bacterial and micro fauna, and the UV doesn't discriminate between good and bad organisms. I'm not so sure I'd worry too much about this one. If I wanted to to run UV, I wouldn't let it stop me from trying Triton.

Socks remove particulates from the water column, and the Triton system wants to rely on these particulates to feed coral and macro algae. If you keep your socks, you're loosing that benefit of the Triton system. IMHO, you're also loosing part of the low maintenance benefit of Triton, as you've still got to swap and wash socks... something I _hate_ doing

Have you watched the BRS conversion video, changing the BRS160 over to Triton yet? They removed the rollermat, cut out the sock section of the sump, thereby enlarging the refugeum section, removed their CO2 scrubber... They did some fairly substantial changes to prep for the Triton system. They were not using a Calcium reactor, but I suspect, if they were, it would have been removed.

habavonc · Aug 29, 2017

I'm gonna start brand new 40g tank with 20g sump with zeovit reactor with zeovit starter kit and gonna use triton other methods 4 part for dosing I should start a new feed and let everyone know the results

Surfside74 · Nov 1, 2017

Greybeard said:
I'll bite

My system is about half that size, so I'm not certain about how well my experience, as brief as it's been, will approach yours. I'm no expert, been using Triton for a few months now on a new tank. I'm a long time reefer, and studied the Triton system long and hard before my own implementation. I'm happy with it, so far. As you appear to be a pretty serious hobbyist yourself, you likely know everything I'm going to say, but I'll give my $0.02 anyway

CA/rx: The Core7 4pt is meant to be dosed in equal parts, targeting alkalinity as a dosing measurement. Seems to me, a CA/rx system would push calcium and alkalinity demand way, way down, since your Calc/Alk is maintained by the reactor. You'd be dosing way less than what someone without a CA/rx would be dosing... likely lowering all of the other components of the Core7 below where they should be. If I were running a CA/rx, I'd likely not try and dose Core7, since the two are targeting the same basic needs.

UV: Triton recommends against UV not because it changes anything chemically, but because 'life' is part of the Triton system, bacterial and micro fauna, and the UV doesn't discriminate between good and bad organisms. I'm not so sure I'd worry too much about this one. If I wanted to to run UV, I wouldn't let it stop me from trying Triton.

Socks remove particulates from the water column, and the Triton system wants to rely on these particulates to feed coral and macro algae. If you keep your socks, you're loosing that benefit of the Triton system. IMHO, you're also loosing part of the low maintenance benefit of Triton, as you've still got to swap and wash socks... something I _hate_ doing

Have you watched the BRS conversion video, changing the BRS160 over to Triton yet? They removed the rollermat, cut out the sock section of the sump, thereby enlarging the refugeum section, removed their CO2 scrubber... They did some fairly substantial changes to prep for the Triton system. They were not using a Calcium reactor, but I suspect, if they were, it would have been removed.

I have a 60 gallon cube mixed with Lps and sps. Everything is good in the tank and no real concerns. I only do water changes of 10 gallons a week, run a skimmer, and have a filter sock. I have also been looking at the triton method but am unsure about how to go to set it all up and if it truly eliminates the maintenance of water changes and such. Can you advise? I currently use red sea coral pro salt and was thinking if I don't switch to triton that I would go to instant ocean instead and add cal and alk to the water change water before putting it in the tank. Thoughts on this? Thank you.

Greybeard · Nov 2, 2017

Surfside74 said:
I have a 60 gallon cube mixed with Lps and sps. Everything is good in the tank and no real concerns. I only do water changes of 10 gallons a week, run a skimmer, and have a filter sock. I have also been looking at the triton method but am unsure about how to go to set it all up and if it truly eliminates the maintenance of water changes and such. Can you advise? I currently use red sea coral pro salt and was thinking if I don't switch to triton that I would go to instant ocean instead and add cal and alk to the water change water before putting it in the tank. Thoughts on this? Thank you.

Until last spring, I also had a 60g cube, very similar to yours. Bought a couple 10g Rubbermaid containers, made 10g water changes easy. I did dump the socks... I'm just not a fan of them.

I'm not certain why you would change. I did so when I upgraded to a larger system. 10g water changes, if you set yourself up right, are easy, and not terribly expensive. In your own words, 'Everything is good, no real concerns'..., Stability is the key, in your position, I'd probably just keep doing what I was doing.

Yes, regular maintenance water changes are eliminated with Triton. It's a chore a lot of people, including myself, don't really like. Sock cleaning, as well, though you could pull your socks without going to Triton. For larger systems, water changes are time consuming, and expensive. For smaller systems? Not so much. I'm not trying to discourage you from trying Triton, but I'm not sure why you would want to change?

As for adding Calc and Alk to IO salt in order to more closely match your tank water... Not something I've tried. If you're going to do this, I'd recommend matching pH as well.

Surfside74 · Nov 2, 2017

Greybeard said:
Until last spring, I also had a 60g cube, very similar to yours. Bought a couple 10g Rubbermaid containers, made 10g water changes easy. I did dump the socks... I'm just not a fan of them.

I'm not certain why you would change. I did so when I upgraded to a larger system. 10g water changes, if you set yourself up right, are easy, and not terribly expensive. In your own words, 'Everything is good, no real concerns'..., Stability is the key, in your position, I'd probably just keep doing what I was doing.

Yes, regular maintenance water changes are eliminated with Triton. It's a chore a lot of people, including myself, don't really like. Sock cleaning, as well, though you could pull your socks without going to Triton. For larger systems, water changes are time consuming, and expensive. For smaller systems? Not so much. I'm not trying to discourage you from trying Triton, but I'm not sure why you would want to change?

As for adding Calc and Alk to IO salt in order to more closely match your tank water... Not something I've tried. If you're going to do this, I'd recommend matching pH as well.

Thanks. I will stick with water changes. Seems to be the ticket.

George Lopez · Dec 6, 2017

I was wondering how often you have to clean your fuge because of the no socks. I know it's feeding the algea but when does it become an issue?

Spdjnky · Jun 29, 2019

Greybeard said:
I'll bite

My system is about half that size, so I'm not certain about how well my experience, as brief as it's been, will approach yours. I'm no expert, been using Triton for a few months now on a new tank. I'm a long time reefer, and studied the Triton system long and hard before my own implementation. I'm happy with it, so far. As you appear to be a pretty serious hobbyist yourself, you likely know everything I'm going to say, but I'll give my $0.02 anyway

CA/rx: The Core7 4pt is meant to be dosed in equal parts, targeting alkalinity as a dosing measurement. Seems to me, a CA/rx system would push calcium and alkalinity demand way, way down, since your Calc/Alk is maintained by the reactor. You'd be dosing way less than what someone without a CA/rx would be dosing... likely lowering all of the other components of the Core7 below where they should be. If I were running a CA/rx, I'd likely not try and dose Core7, since the two are targeting the same basic needs.

UV: Triton recommends against UV not because it changes anything chemically, but because 'life' is part of the Triton system, bacterial and micro fauna, and the UV doesn't discriminate between good and bad organisms. I'm not so sure I'd worry too much about this one. If I wanted to to run UV, I wouldn't let it stop me from trying Triton.

Socks remove particulates from the water column, and the Triton system wants to rely on these particulates to feed coral and macro algae. If you keep your socks, you're loosing that benefit of the Triton system. IMHO, you're also loosing part of the low maintenance benefit of Triton, as you've still got to swap and wash socks... something I _hate_ doing

Have you watched the BRS conversion video, changing the BRS160 over to Triton yet? They removed the rollermat, cut out the sock section of the sump, thereby enlarging the refugeum section, removed their CO2 scrubber... They did some fairly substantial changes to prep for the Triton system. They were not using a Calcium reactor, but I suspect, if they were, it would have been removed.

Hi Greybeard,
I'm just getting ready to start Triton and would like to ask how's yours going and if good could I ask you a few more questions with pics on the way I am planning to do a complete change over including a new aquarium and reconfiguring my sump and also using Triton on my Frag system