Questions for copper treatment

John A!10

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Hey all,
On Thursday I should be receiving my cupramine to treat my 2 clowns and firefish for ich in my hospital tank. I have some questions regarding the process:
note: I will not be able to get a test for copper in time. My qt tank currently has a bag of bio balls in it for biological filtration

1. I'm doing water changes with tap water, and read that the water needs to be mixed 48 hours before so that the de-chlorinator isn't present. Will this work?
2. How many drops should I use in a 9-gallon tank, I've heard 18 as well as 9. Should I use more drops for a severe case? M
3. Could I leave the biological bacteria in there to help me with the ammonia, as I will be doing a 4.5-gallon water change every 48 hours at least apart. Also when I do a water change should the copper be added to the bucket right before being added to the tank? I know it will absorb the copper but can I dose a bit more like 15 drops instead of 9?
5. How long should I run the whole treatment?

Is there anything else I should note?
Thanks a lot,
 
Sorry - I can only answer some of your questions:

Most sea salt has sodium thiosulfate in it, and that dechlorinates tap water, but in any event, if you mix it up and aerate it and heat it to proper temp for 24 hours, you don't need to add any dechlor at all...safer to avoid it because it can cause toxic reactions with Cupramine.

The only copper that I've ever used without having a copper test kit is Coppersafe, IMO the others all require an accurate copper test kit, or better yet, the Hanna Checker.

I'm worried - if you fish have ich now, but your copper isn't arriving for two more days, the infection may get out of control...it usually takes 48 or more hours for the copper to start to work.

By all means, leave the bioballs in the tank for ammonia control!

Jay
 
Sorry - I can only answer some of your questions:

Most sea salt has sodium thiosulfate in it, and that dechlorinates tap water, but in any event, if you mix it up and aerate it and heat it to proper temp for 24 hours, you don't need to add any dechlor at all...safer to avoid it because it can cause toxic reactions with Cupramine.

The only copper that I've ever used without having a copper test kit is Coppersafe, IMO the others all require an accurate copper test kit, or better yet, the Hanna Checker.

I'm worried - if you fish have ich now, but your copper isn't arriving for two more days, the infection may get out of control...it usually takes 48 or more hours for the copper to start to work.

By all means, leave the bioballs in the tank for ammonia control!

Jay
Thanks for the reply,
I'm using ceramic bio balls, is it still fine? Also, I'm using instant ocean salt I'm going to research if it contains sodium thiosulfate. The ich isn't that bad and the fish are still eating well so hopefully, they make it. Hoping for the best.
 
After reading certain threads I'm switching my order to copper safe as I read that it is safer. Is anything different other than the dosage?
 
Thanks for the reply,
I'm using ceramic bio balls, is it still fine? Also, I'm using instant ocean salt I'm going to research if it contains sodium thiosulfate. The ich isn't that bad and the fish are still eating well so hopefully, they make it. Hoping for the best.
Ceramic bio balls is fine. Last time I tested it Instant Ocean had sodium thio, their reef crystals had a little less so. Omega Sea and Omega Reef don’t have any.
Jay
 
Ceramic bio balls is fine. Last time I tested it Instant Ocean had sodium thio, their reef crystals had a little less so. Omega Sea and Omega Reef don’t have any.
Jay
Great, I use instant ocean for qt.
Thanks a lot for all the great info.
 
Can you reuse bio balls/ceramic media/bacteria colonies in another tank post treatment or does the copper remain?
 
Can you reuse bio balls/ceramic media/bacteria colonies in another tank post treatment or does the copper remain?
Good question - any media that isn't calcareous (calcium carbonate based) should be able to be rinsed off and re-used with no issues. However, some of the sintered/fumed silica products have tons of deep holes that need to be really rinsed out well if those products are to be used in with sensitive invertebrates. It would be safest to soak/rinse the material in white vinegar, then rinse in freshwater.

Jay
 

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