Questions on QT set up

[hllb]

I just set up my 32g biocube. I had tanks years ago (got out of the hobby maybe 12 yrs ago) but never had a quarantine tank. I have an old 12g eclipse tank that we used for freshwater and I figured I could set that up as a quarantine. I read through the original QT/acclimation post but had some additional questions.

What’s the best way to clean out the old tank for use with saltwater?

Do you keep the QT tank set up all the time or only when you need it? The post made it sound like a temporary setup.

If the setup is temporary, how early do you set it up when planning a purchase?

How do you best control ammonia/nitrites?

I saw a reference to QT of corals. Is that necessary? I was thinking it was just fish that would need QT.

 

[James77]

I just set up my 32g biocube. I had tanks years ago (got out of the hobby maybe 12 yrs ago) but never had a quarantine tank. I have an old 12g eclipse tank that we used for freshwater and I figured I could set that up as a quarantine. I read through the original QT/acclimation post but had some additional questions.

What’s the best way to clean out the old tank for use with saltwater?

Do you keep the QT tank set up all the time or only when you need it? The post made it sound like a temporary setup.

If the setup is temporary, how early do you set it up when planning a purchase?

How do you best control ammonia/nitrites?

I saw a reference to QT of corals. Is that necessary? I was thinking it was just fish that would need QT.

A 50/50 water vinegar is fine for cleaning.

I would only keep it ready for immediate use. You can mix up saltwater to put in it and heat that water in about 24 hours, even sooner were it an emergency.

I only use a small power filter when I do QT. The bioload is small and you can just do good sized water changes each day or two.

QT corals is not a bad idea, nor is dipping them. There can be unwanted pests and parasites on coral that easily spread in your tank. That said, it is unlikely and I have never QT a coral and rarely do I do fish. But I am sure I will be bit in the butt someday, so it is good practice.

 

[hllb]

A 50/50 water vinegar is fine for cleaning.

I would only keep it ready for immediate use. You can mix up saltwater to put in it and heat that water in about 24 hours, even sooner were it an emergency.

I only use a small power filter when I do QT. The bioload is small and you can just do good sized water changes each day or two.

QT corals is not a bad idea, nor is dipping them. There can be unwanted pests and parasites on coral that easily spread in your tank. That said, it is unlikely and I have never QT a coral and rarely do I do fish. But I am sure I will be bit in the butt someday, so it is good practice.

I never QTed anything in the past and never had an issue but it is kind of like playing Russian roulette LOL

 

[James77]

I never QTed anything in the past and never had an issue but it is kind of like playing Russian roulette LOL

Yeah its something I never got in the habit of, but I always wish I did. It is usually an afterthought....like whoopsie, I didn't QT.

 

[Idoc]

I just set up my 32g biocube. I had tanks years ago (got out of the hobby maybe 12 yrs ago) but never had a quarantine tank. I have an old 12g eclipse tank that we used for freshwater and I figured I could set that up as a quarantine. I read through the original QT/acclimation post but had some additional questions.

What’s the best way to clean out the old tank for use with saltwater?

Do you keep the QT tank set up all the time or only when you need it? The post made it sound like a temporary setup.

If the setup is temporary, how early do you set it up when planning a purchase?

How do you best control ammonia/nitrites?

I saw a reference to QT of corals. Is that necessary? I was thinking it was just fish that would need QT.

1. 50/50 vinegar solution worked with some manual cleaning for my tank when i got it used.

2. I set up the QT only when im ready to use it. I match the salinity to that of where the fish is coming from and then raise it slowly over days to the salinity of my DT. For the first week, I add some bacteria in a bottle each day and have never had an ammonia issue yet. I use a seachem ammonia alert badge to monitor.

3. I'll set it up a day or 2 ahead of the arrival or purchase.

4. Control with Biro-spira added and if needed, a water change.

5. I quarantined corals and inverts as well in a separate 20g long tank... I'm shooting for 76 days. But, I'll play it by ear as i go... monitoring plugs for bugs, removing initial plug and replacing with a new one, dipping coals weekly at first, etc...

 

[Marco S]

There is a whole forum here dedicated to Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnostics that has a ton of info on QT processes, medications and instructions from the experts that you should really check out. Here is the link: https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/fish-disease-treatment-and-diagnosis.771/

I personally keep at least one QT/Hospital tank up and running at all times, but can spin additional ones up at any given time using Marine Pure Balls that I keep in my sump to seed the QT tanks and a bottle of Bio Spira for good measure. I use an ammonia badge and rarely test for Nitrite or Nitrate anymore since I've been doing this successfully for a while now.

As far as water changes go, I do weekly changes on my QT tanks. This can get a bit tricky when dosing copper since you have to keep it at the therapeutic level at all times, so you should really get a copper test kit. I personally have a Hannah checker and use Copper Power since it has a larger range of therapeutic level. If you decide to do the TTM then you don;t have to worry about ammonia at all, but that is only good for Ich so you will still need to treat for Flukes, Velvet and bacterial diseases. For example, I have done TTM while also dosing PraziPro and feeding Metroplex with Focus.

Finally, I clean all my tanks with bleach between each treatment. I let it run for 24 hours putting all the equipment used in the tank with bleach and then rinse and wash and rinse again and let dry for a couple days in direct sunlight before using again.

I would recommend QTing your coral as well, but if you decide not to, you should at least dip the coral before putting it in your DT. I use Coral RX and Revive, but I also QT for 76 days. It does require getting a decent light for the QT tank, but it gives you an excuse to have an additional tank.

 

[PatW]

Quarantine has several purposes.

One is to try to prevent diseases from getting into the display tank.

The other is rehab. Your new fish has quite possibly gone from the ocean, been shipped multiple times and held in a variety of holding tanks. The quarantine tank is a place where they can be safe and unmolested. Also it is a place where you can get them eating your normal food so they will not starve is the competition of the display tank. Also it is a good time to fatten them up.

Some people treat their fish prophylactically for disease usually with copper followed by prazipro. That combination will deal with most of the diseases.

A quarantine tank needs some structure for hiding places. A simple filter is good to for aeration and bacteria for breaking down ammonia.

A small powerhead can be good along with a heater if needed. You really do not need a light.

As for cleaning the tank, rinsing it out with water thoroughly and cleaning it with vinegar works well.

I use left over water from water changes from my display tank for my quarantine tank.

If you use copper in your qt, do not add corals or inverts to it. Copper is very toxic to inverts.