quick question about plumbing to the bulkhead

reef tank 2.0

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 12, 2021
Messages
511
Reaction score
220
Location
Cincinnati
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have my 1" bulkheads, that I am going to be connecting street 90s to in order to make my run into the basement sump.
Although the street 90 will fit into the bulkhead, do I need to have a piece of pvc pipe going from the bulkhead to the street 90?
I have the correct glue, I just want to make sure that I'm connecting the right pieces together.

and also, the pvc pipes coming out of the bulkheads that reside in the overflow for the overflow system.........do these get glued into the bulkheads, or is it loose fit?
 
The pvc pipes coming out of the bulkheads that reside in the overflow for the overflow system.........do these get glued into the bulkheads, or is it loose fit?
These pipes are fine just pressed in.
 
I have my 1" bulkheads, that I am going to be connecting street 90s to in order to make my run into the basement sump.
Although the street 90 will fit into the bulkhead, do I need to have a piece of pvc pipe going from the bulkhead to the street 90?
I have the correct glue, I just want to make sure that I'm connecting the right pieces together.

and also, the pvc pipes coming out of the bulkheads that reside in the overflow for the overflow system.........do these get glued into the bulkheads, or is it loose fit?
I would put a section of pvc first before the 90’s just in case you need to remove the bulkhead for any reason. You can then cut the pvc and attach another fitting, without wasting the bulkhead.
As far as gluing the overflow pipes, I’m not sure on your setup but drain lines inside the overflow are fine unglued, since not pressurized. If there is a return line inside the overflow that will need all parts glued.
 
I might need to post a picture of my set up. I'm thinking the piece of pvc is sorta impossible to do. I was hoping it wasn't needed.

out of the bulkhead, i need to make an immediate 90 so that the line goes out the back of the stand. from there I'm hoping to have a union and another 90, so the line can head downward into the floor and into the basement.
 
I might need to post a picture of my set up. I'm thinking the piece of pvc is sorta impossible to do. I was hoping it wasn't needed.

out of the bulkhead, i need to make an immediate 90 so that the line goes out the back of the stand. from there I'm hoping to have a union and another 90, so the line can head downward into the floor and into the basement.
It can be done if necessary but if you ever need to remove the bulkhead your gonna have to cut through the fitting.
 
Although the street 90 will fit into the bulkhead, do I need to have a piece of pvc pipe going from the bulkhead to the street 90?
No.

My internet went down before I could finish
 
Here are a couple of pictures showing what I am starting with.
The first picture shows the overflow area where I currently have the street 90's dry fitted into place. From each street 90, I want to add a union. After the union, it will then hit a 90 which will head downward. The return line, probably the line on the far right, will hit a gate valve after the union and 90's. If I want to have the union, as I should, that has the pipe a good 4 or so inches off the back of the stand. which means I need to find a way to support those lines to relieve any stress off the bulkheads. I was hoping for an inch or two, but it's out a ways. I'm not sure of the best way to do this. I don't have very many options due to space constraints. I understand dry fitting leaves a lot of extra length that will tighten up once glued, but it'll still be offset from the back regardless.



 
If it was me, I would skip all the 90s and get some good ultra flex pvc, you can curve it right out and down.
This is what I use, you can’t get it at your local store though, they usually only have the stiff crap which I can’t stand.

 
I was thinking some more. I already planned on having unions for each line once it entered into the basement,. I know unions at the bulkheads are ideal, but if I omit them at the bulkhead, I could literally have the street 90 at the bulkhead, then another 90 shortly after, which would drop the lines tight to the back of the stand like I hoped.

it comes down to whether or not i want to take that chance of ever needing to replace something at the overflow.
 
herbie drain set up, I was going to place a strainer on the drain line to keep critters out. Is there a benefit to having this strainer inside the bulkhead vs a few inches up from the bulkhead?
 
if I did not want to use the street 90s that would go inside the bulkheads, can pvc pipe be glued directly inside the bulkhead instead? My 1" pvc fits inside the 1" bulkhead, just want to make sure I can use it before I glue it into place.
 
if I did not want to use the street 90s that would go inside the bulkheads, can pvc pipe be glued directly inside the bulkhead instead? My 1" pvc fits inside the 1" bulkhead, just want to make sure I can use it before I glue it into place.
Yes, the bulkhead is made for pipe to go directly into it. That’s why the street 90 fits into it. The street 90 is unique in that the smaller end is the diameter of that size pipe. Another thought would be to use 45 degree fittings to smooth out the flow of the water in the pipe.
 
herbie drain set up, I was going to place a strainer on the drain line to keep critters out. Is there a benefit to having this strainer inside the bulkhead vs a few inches up from the bulkhead?
When I had a herbie I put a strainer on my main drain but left the trickle/emergency line free of any obstructions. I had mine a few inches up just to make it easier to remove and clean. Definitely don’t glue it on.
 
I assume you cannot determine the height of the emergency drain UNTIL there is water in the tank to see max water level? Shouldn't the emergency pipe also have a strainer on it since there will be water going through it?
 
Here are a couple of pictures showing what I am starting with.
The first picture shows the overflow area where I currently have the street 90's dry fitted into place. From each street 90, I want to add a union. After the union, it will then hit a 90 which will head downward. The return line, probably the line on the far right, will hit a gate valve after the union and 90's. If I want to have the union, as I should, that has the pipe a good 4 or so inches off the back of the stand. which means I need to find a way to support those lines to relieve any stress off the bulkheads. I was hoping for an inch or two, but it's out a ways. I'm not sure of the best way to do this. I don't have very many options due to space constraints. I understand dry fitting leaves a lot of extra length that will tighten up once glued, but it'll still be offset from the back regardless.



Just leave a section like in your picture and you will be able to cut through that shoulder if need be. Then you can just replace the bulkhead fitting. As to the other no glue
 
If it was me, I would skip all the 90s and get some good ultra flex pvc, you can curve it right out and down.
This is what I use, you can’t get it at your local store though, they usually only have the stiff crap which I can’t stand.

Your idea is great but I read in an article her that a member had huge problems in his tank. They actually got it analyzed after some research they found the problem. Tin. They found out that Tin is used in PVC to make it flexible who would have thought.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top