Quratine Tank Questions

[TheReefDiary]

After talking to a bunch of people here I've decided to get a quarantine tank and have a few questions.


I purchased a 10g as my tank is only 13g. Has a filter, has a light and top.

Should I run a cycled or unclycled tank? I'd prefer to put the tank away after quarantining the fish I'm buying today. I heard uncycled is better just have to do frequent water changes which I can do.

1) how often do I do water changes and what amount?
2) should I medicated the fish immediately as many recommend or just watch them?
3) do I feed normally?

 

[RedoubtReef]

Is your display tank an all-in-one or does it have a sump? Generally what you want to do is buy a sponge filter for your QT. You then place the sponge part in your display sump for at least 3-4 weeks (your display needs to have been cycled and ready for fish so that the bacteria from your display can populate the sponge) and when needed, you use it in the QT.
Throw the sponge away and buy a new one after breaking down the QT. Put the new sponge back in your sump and you are ready for the next time you need to QT.

 

[sc50964]

After talking to a bunch of people here I've decided to get a quarantine tank and have a few questions.


I purchased a 10g as my tank is only 13g. Has a filter, has a light and top.

Should I run a cycled or unclycled tank? I'd prefer to put the tank away after quarantining the fish I'm buying today. I heard uncycled is better just have to do frequent water changes which I can do.

1) how often do I do water changes and what amount?
2) should I medicated the fish immediately as many recommend or just watch them?
3) do I feed normally?

Uncycled but have cycled media handy on the side. use Fritzyme 9.
As to WC, that depends on what you try to treat and water quality. Basically, change it as needed or per meds instruction.
you got to dip the fish before going into the QT. Paraguard, or nitrofurzone, ruby all work about the same as far as dipping goes before qt. gonna to do FWD too. H2O2 dip would replace all those as well. Then fish goes in to a clean QT. I usually wait for a night before start adding coppersafe and ramp it up to 2ppm between 2 to 5 days depending on fish. Got to have lots of fish meds handy tho.

 

[Lps_lover12]

Here in Canada it’s very hard to get fish meds as they need to be prescribed by a vet now. There’s many ways to do a qt tank. The way I do it is put some media in my display for a few weeks then throw that in the at tank as well as some sponge and put some instant ocean bio spiria in the qt. I don’t use meds unless I see the disease on the fish. I watch it for at least 30 mins a day to make sure it’s acting normal. The place I buy fish from is a very good store and the fish are always healthy with no diseases.

 

[reef_1]

Atm I have an uncycled 5g hospital tank, with 2 young clownfish in it and CP.

With daily 1 careful feeding they generate around 0.1-0.15 total ammonia per day in this small tank.

When I say careful feeding that means I pick up all visible remaining food pieces either with a tweezer if pellets or with a net if frozen. Most of the time they are having a poo while I feed them and I take that out as well.

They have reduced appetite, but both is eating a reasonable amount. They are sleeping all the time - I guess as they only have a very dimmed light.

Seachem ammonia badge is yellow for a day, then 2nd day I dose prime, 3rd day I change 75% water, badge goes back to yellow.

As this protocol is quite easy, fish dont seem to care and I have bad experiences with the best LFS in the area, I just decided I will premedicate all my future young clowns with CP and maybe general cure with a similar protocol.

The changes I plan on this protocol in the future is a bigger tank, maybe a 10g and might also adjust down ph slightly to have less free ammonia.

I tried to seed filter media in the past but it always failed, so I gave up on it and have some fritz bacteria ready in case I need it.

As I only have a 5g tank and always have at least 10 gallon rodi water ready, I can do a 100% water change in 30 minutes as well in case of an emergency.

 

[TheReefDiary]

Atm I have an uncycled 5g hospital tank, with 2 young clownfish in it and CP.

With daily 1 careful feeding they generate around 0.1-0.15 total ammonia per day in this small tank.

When I say careful feeding that means I pick up all visible remaining food pieces either with a tweezer if pellets or with a net if frozen. Most of the time they are having a poo while I feed them and I take that out as well.

They have reduced appetite, but both is eating a reasonable amount. They are sleeping all the time - I guess as they only have a very dimmed light.

Seachem ammonia badge is yellow for a day, then 2nd day I dose prime, 3rd day I change 75% water, badge goes back to yellow.

As this protocol is quite easy, fish dont seem to care and I have bad experiences with the best LFS in the area, I just decided I will premedicate all my future young clowns with CP and maybe general cure with a similar protocol.

The changes I plan on this protocol in the future is a bigger tank, maybe a 10g and might also adjust down ph slightly to have less free ammonia.

I tried to seed filter media in the past but it always failed, so I gave up on it and have some fritz bacteria ready in case I need it.

As I only have a 5g tank and always have at least 10 gallon rodi water ready, I can do a 100% water change in 30 minutes as well in case of an emergency.

Awesome, thanks for your advice. I have a pretty similar qt setup as you. Glad to hear it's working. Just going to have to stay really on top of water parameters. I'm going to by those seachem tags tomorrow.

 

[TheReefDiary]

Atm I have an uncycled 5g hospital tank, with 2 young clownfish in it and CP.

With daily 1 careful feeding they generate around 0.1-0.15 total ammonia per day in this small tank.

When I say careful feeding that means I pick up all visible remaining food pieces either with a tweezer if pellets or with a net if frozen. Most of the time they are having a poo while I feed them and I take that out as well.

They have reduced appetite, but both is eating a reasonable amount. They are sleeping all the time - I guess as they only have a very dimmed light.

Seachem ammonia badge is yellow for a day, then 2nd day I dose prime, 3rd day I change 75% water, badge goes back to yellow.

As this protocol is quite easy, fish dont seem to care and I have bad experiences with the best LFS in the area, I just decided I will premedicate all my future young clowns with CP and maybe general cure with a similar protocol.

The changes I plan on this protocol in the future is a bigger tank, maybe a 10g and might also adjust down ph slightly to have less free ammonia.

I tried to seed filter media in the past but it always failed, so I gave up on it and have some fritz bacteria ready in case I need it.

As I only have a 5g tank and always have at least 10 gallon rodi water ready, I can do a 100% water change in 30 minutes as well in case of an emergency.

I don't plan on dosing any treatment unless I notice that they need it. They're already in a stressed state so don't want to.treat something that's not there.

 

[Idoc]

After talking to a bunch of people here I've decided to get a quarantine tank and have a few questions.


I purchased a 10g as my tank is only 13g. Has a filter, has a light and top.

Should I run a cycled or unclycled tank? I'd prefer to put the tank away after quarantining the fish I'm buying today. I heard uncycled is better just have to do frequent water changes which I can do.

1) how often do I do water changes and what amount?
2) should I medicated the fish immediately as many recommend or just watch them?
3) do I feed normally?

I run a 10g quarantine tank when purchasing new fish. I breakdown the tank and set it up again when I am planning to get a new fish....so, I guess I would be running an uncycled tank by your message's definition.

I keep a body of bottled bacteria on hand and use it to cycle the tank quickly. During the first few days, I add a little more bottled bacteria each day. I have never had ammonia issues this way. If I would see an ammonia issue, I would just do a water change.

1. I don't do regular water changes during quarantine. Once I start copper, that water stays throughout the 30 days so that my concentration of copper doesn't change. If I did have to do a water change, I would pre-dose my new water to the same concentration copper as the water I am replacing prior to adding it to the tank.
2. I typically have the water set at 1ppm copper from the start...then I will either quickly raise it over hte next couple of days to the therapeutic level or I will observe the fish. Mostly this depends on whether the fish is eating normally when I put the fish into the tank. If it is a sensitive quarantining fish, then I will monitor and ensure they are feeing properly even before adding copper.
3. Yes, feed normally...but only enough that the fish consumes it in a couple of minutes. I typically feed them small portions at a time monitoring how well they eat and act. When that food is consumed, I'll add a small amount more until they start to show no interest. Then, I will siphon out the uneaten food with a pipette or turkey baster in order to control the nutrients in the tank.

 

[TheReefDiary]

I run a 10g quarantine tank when purchasing new fish. I breakdown the tank and set it up again when I am planning to get a new fish....so, I guess I would be running an uncycled tank by your message's definition.

I keep a body of bottled bacteria on hand and use it to cycle the tank quickly. During the first few days, I add a little more bottled bacteria each day. I have never had ammonia issues this way. If I would see an ammonia issue, I would just do a water change.

1. I don't do regular water changes during quarantine. Once I start copper, that water stays throughout the 30 days so that my concentration of copper doesn't change. If I did have to do a water change, I would pre-dose my new water to the same concentration copper as the water I am replacing prior to adding it to the tank.
2. I typically have the water set at 1ppm copper from the start...then I will either quickly raise it over hte next couple of days to the therapeutic level or I will observe the fish. Mostly this depends on whether the fish is eating normally when I put the fish into the tank. If it is a sensitive quarantining fish, then I will monitor and ensure they are feeing properly even before adding copper.
3. Yes, feed normally...but only enough that the fish consumes it in a couple of minutes. I typically feed them small portions at a time monitoring how well they eat and act. When that food is consumed, I'll add a small amount more until they start to show no interest. Then, I will siphon out the uneaten food with a pipette or turkey baster in order to control the nutrients in the tank.

Do you recommend using meds right away? I've been pretty lucky with the fish from LFS and don't feel the need to run any chems if they look fine.

I'm not introducing any bacteria at the moment either. I'm purchasing the seacham tag and will watch ammonia very carefully during this process. I feel the bacteria is kind of pointless if I end up needing to introduce meds which will just fight against it anyway.

I do have seachem Prime on hand to keep ammonia in check for at least a day so I don't constantly have to do water changes.

 

[TheReefDiary]

I run a 10g quarantine tank when purchasing new fish. I breakdown the tank and set it up again when I am planning to get a new fish....so, I guess I would be running an uncycled tank by your message's definition.

I keep a body of bottled bacteria on hand and use it to cycle the tank quickly. During the first few days, I add a little more bottled bacteria each day. I have never had ammonia issues this way. If I would see an ammonia issue, I would just do a water change.

1. I don't do regular water changes during quarantine. Once I start copper, that water stays throughout the 30 days so that my concentration of copper doesn't change. If I did have to do a water change, I would pre-dose my new water to the same concentration copper as the water I am replacing prior to adding it to the tank.
2. I typically have the water set at 1ppm copper from the start...then I will either quickly raise it over hte next couple of days to the therapeutic level or I will observe the fish. Mostly this depends on whether the fish is eating normally when I put the fish into the tank. If it is a sensitive quarantining fish, then I will monitor and ensure they are feeing properly even before adding copper.
3. Yes, feed normally...but only enough that the fish consumes it in a couple of minutes. I typically feed them small portions at a time monitoring how well they eat and act. When that food is consumed, I'll add a small amount more until they start to show no interest. Then, I will siphon out the uneaten food with a pipette or turkey baster in order to control the nutrients in the tank.

Or do you think it's better to just introduce the bacteria and 100% do the copper treatment right away?

 

[reef_1]

Awesome, thanks for your advice.

I don't have enough experience to advise, I just wrote down how am I doing it at the moment and how much ammonia is generated in my tank for info. So take it with a pinch of salt, its not an advice.

For more sensitive fish maybe these ammonia levels are not ok, but as I am only interested in clowns, I am personally fine with my procedure for now.

If you just watch and don't medicate or you medicate with something that is not affected by biofilter, I would also add bacteria, its better on the fish not to have any ammonia.

I read these stuff to judge if my ammonia levels would be fine for clowns for a short period:

https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-02/rhf/index.php

(PDF) Ammonia and nitrite toxicity to false clownfish Amphiprion ocellaris

PDF | False clownfish, Amphiprion ocellaris, is one of the most commercialized fish species in the world, highly produced to supply the aquarium market.... | Find, read and cite all the research you need on ResearchGate

www.researchgate.net

The conclusion of the study was: "Based on our results, we recommend to avoid concentrations higher than 0.57 mg/L of NH3-N" for clownfish.

That 0.57mg/l is free ammonia - as per the seachem badge doublechecked with total ammonia test + ph calculations my tank is spiking below 0.05 free ammonia. Unfortunately I dont have space for a bigger tank for now.

Maybe someone more experienced could advise how much the ammonia levels should be allowed to go up.

 

[TheReefDiary]

I don't have enough experience to advise, I just wrote down how am I doing it at the moment and how much ammonia is generated in my tank for info. So take it with a pinch of salt, its not an advice.

For more sensitive fish maybe these ammonia levels are not ok, but as I am only interested in clowns, I am personally fine with my procedure for now.

If you just watch and don't medicate or you medicate with something that is not affected by biofilter, I would also add bacteria, its better on the fish not to have any ammonia.

I read these stuff to judge if my ammonia levels would be fine for clowns for a short period:

https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-02/rhf/index.php

(PDF) Ammonia and nitrite toxicity to false clownfish Amphiprion ocellaris

PDF | False clownfish, Amphiprion ocellaris, is one of the most commercialized fish species in the world, highly produced to supply the aquarium market.... | Find, read and cite all the research you need on ResearchGate

www.researchgate.net

The conclusion of the study was: "Based on our results, we recommend to avoid concentrations higher than 0.57 mg/L of NH3-N" for clownfish.

That 0.57mg/l is free ammonia - as per the seachem badge doublechecked with total ammonia test + ph calculations my tank is spiking below 0.05 free ammonia. Unfortunately I dont have space for a bigger tank for now.

Maybe someone more experienced could advise how much the ammonia levels should be allowed to go up.

Still appreciate your help

 

[TheReefDiary]

I don't have enough experience to advise, I just wrote down how am I doing it at the moment and how much ammonia is generated in my tank for info. So take it with a pinch of salt, its not an advice.

For more sensitive fish maybe these ammonia levels are not ok, but as I am only interested in clowns, I am personally fine with my procedure for now.

If you just watch and don't medicate or you medicate with something that is not affected by biofilter, I would also add bacteria, its better on the fish not to have any ammonia.

I read these stuff to judge if my ammonia levels would be fine for clowns for a short period:

https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-02/rhf/index.php

(PDF) Ammonia and nitrite toxicity to false clownfish Amphiprion ocellaris

PDF | False clownfish, Amphiprion ocellaris, is one of the most commercialized fish species in the world, highly produced to supply the aquarium market.... | Find, read and cite all the research you need on ResearchGate

www.researchgate.net

The conclusion of the study was: "Based on our results, we recommend to avoid concentrations higher than 0.57 mg/L of NH3-N" for clownfish.

That 0.57mg/l is free ammonia - as per the seachem badge doublechecked with total ammonia test + ph calculations my tank is spiking below 0.05 free ammonia. Unfortunately I dont have space for a bigger tank for now.

Maybe someone more experienced could advise how much the ammonia levels should be allowed to go up.

A good call on still using the bacteria if I'm not going to do treatment right away. Will help get rid of ammonia.

 

[Idoc]

Do you recommend using meds right away? I've been pretty lucky with the fish from LFS and don't feel the need to run any chems if they look fine.

I'm not introducing any bacteria at the moment either. I'm purchasing the seacham tag and will watch ammonia very carefully during this process. I feel the bacteria is kind of pointless if I end up needing to introduce meds which will just fight against it anyway.

I do have seachem Prime on hand to keep ammonia in check for at least a day so I don't constantly have to do water changes.

Introducing meds immediately or after observation is optional...either option is fine.

LFS tanks can be cesspools of disease presence. Quarantining and prophylactic treatments are purely optional. I quarantine and treat everything...so far no diseases in my main tank, so I will keep up my current protocols.

The nitrifying bacteria in a bottle doesn't seem to be impacted by the medications. But, I'm not starting out with strong antibiotics which probably would impact the bacteria if used before they can take a strong hold on the system.

Seachem Prime will only bind the ammonia for 24-48 hours, it doesn't get rid of it. So, it is a band-aid to give you some time for a water change.

 

[Idoc]

Or do you think it's better to just introduce the bacteria and 100% do the copper treatment right away?

I start with copper treatments right away since ich and velvet are probably the most common diseases a fish will have from a LFS. As previously stated, I start with teh water at 1ppm and work up to full therapeutic ranges over the next 3-4 days. I don't go direclty into 100% therapeutic levels of copper right away.

I like adding bacteria in a bottle so I don't have to worry about ammonia issues.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

After talking to a bunch of people here I've decided to get a quarantine tank and have a few questions.


I purchased a 10g as my tank is only 13g. Has a filter, has a light and top.

Should I run a cycled or unclycled tank? I'd prefer to put the tank away after quarantining the fish I'm buying today. I heard uncycled is better just have to do frequent water changes which I can do.

1) how often do I do water changes and what amount?
2) should I medicated the fish immediately as many recommend or just watch them?
3) do I feed normally?

I always keep my quarantine tanks fully cycled and ready to go. Water changes as needed based on water quality testing or treatment needs. I always preventatively medicate all new fish. I feed normally.

Here is our current quarantine protocol in case you haven't seen it:

Current Quarantine Protocol

2024 Quarantine Procedures Jay Hemdal David Scarborough Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed, proactive quarantine process can effectively eliminate these...

www.reef2reef.com

Jay

 

[doubleshot00]

I really don't know much about QT but except what @Jay Hemdal gave me suggestions. But i will NEVER run a QT without a cycled tank. NEVER gain.

 

[TheReefDiary]

I really don't know much about QT but except what @Jay Hemdal gave me suggestions. But i will NEVER run a QT without a cycled tank. NEVER gain.

Unfortunately I do t have the space to keep a cycled tank running 24/7. It's a nuisance right now let alone indefinitely.

 

[TheReefDiary]

I always keep my quarantine tanks fully cycled and ready to go. Water changes as needed based on water quality testing or treatment needs. I always preventatively medicate all new fish. I feed normally.

Here is our current quarantine protocol in case you haven't seen it:

Current Quarantine Protocol

2024 Quarantine Procedures Jay Hemdal David Scarborough Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed, proactive quarantine process can effectively eliminate these...

www.reef2reef.com

Jay

First day just put them in the quarantine tank with no meds. Second day I introduced prazi pro, first dose. 4 days later I re-dosed prazi pro. That'll run for another 5 days but I don't plan on running copper. Once that dose is done I plan on doing 100% water change and watching the fish for another two weeks. Do I really need to run copper if after those two weeks the fish haven't developed anything?

 

[davidcalgary29]

I always keep my quarantine tanks fully cycled and ready to go. Water changes as needed based on water quality testing or treatment needs. I always preventatively medicate all new fish. I feed normally.

Here is our current quarantine protocol in case you haven't seen it:

Current Quarantine Protocol

2024 Quarantine Procedures Jay Hemdal David Scarborough Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed, proactive quarantine process can effectively eliminate these...

www.reef2reef.com

Jay

May I ask what your suggested course of prophylactic treatment would be if you had access to nothing but copper, Rally Pro, and hydrogen peroxide?