R/O system and Booster pump Help

jblasi

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I have a 200GPD 7 stage system with a full Aquatec 8800 booster pump setup (auto flush and cutoff). I purchased the booster from BRS about a year ago because I was only getting around 50psi on a good day. When I installed the booster system it made a lot of noise and vibrations at first then settled down to a hum when it’s on. However, my pressure has not increased. It has slowly decreased to about 40psi. I have reached out to BRS about the booster and they told me I had to contact Aquatec. I have contacted them 4-5 times hearing nothing back every time. I have a new 7 stage kit coming for my R/O but that is only because of the gallons I have put through the system.
If anyone has experience with these pumps troubleshooting I would be forever grateful!
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Over time the pressure will drop as filters get clogged.
They might need to be changed.
The booster pump has a allen screw at the top to adjust the pressure it puts out.
 
Over time the pressure will drop as filters get clogged.
They might need to be changed.
The booster pump has a allen screw at the top to adjust the pressure it puts out.
I have adjusted the screw both ways multiple times with no change in the result. I do understand the filters need changed and I have new ones coming this week, but since the beginning I have never seen an increase in pressure from the pump.
 
How is the supply hooked up? If a pierce valve it is very possible that that is restricting flow.
 
How is the supply hooked up? If a pierce valve it is very possible that that is restricting flow.
Yes. It is a pierce valve. But it is backed out completely. It comes off the cold water line on my hot water heater in the garage.
 
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Does the noise the pump is making change as you turn up the output pressure? What happens when you take the pressure switch out of the equation, and just run the pump straight through to the filter? It's possible your gauge or pressure switch is bad.
 
Does the noise the pump is making change as you turn up the output pressure? What happens when you take the pressure switch out of the equation, and just run the pump straight through to the filter? It's possible your gauge or pressure switch is bad.
The pump noise will change slightly as I adjust the screw. It’s always very loud when it first turns on then quiets as the pressure builds. I removed the pressure switch and nothing changed. Still low pressure. I also have tested the gauge by manually backing up the waterline and watching the pressure build up immediately.
I keep swaying towards a bad pump but I want to rule absolutely everything else first. I have noticed that when my R/O barrel is completely full I can still hear the booster running. Should the pressure switch turn it off completely?
 
The pump noise will change slightly as I adjust the screw. It’s always very loud when it first turns on then quiets as the pressure builds. I removed the pressure switch and nothing changed. Still low pressure. I also have tested the gauge by manually backing up the waterline and watching the pressure build up immediately.
I keep swaying towards a bad pump but I want to rule absolutely everything else first. I have noticed that when my R/O barrel is completely full I can still hear the booster running. Should the pressure switch turn it off completely?
I've no idea about the pressure switch. I didn't install mine, and go right from the pump to the ro flow restrictor on the ro input stage. I have my gauge on a tee between the pump and the flow restrictor. I just turn the pump on and off manually as needed.

Your gauge is on the supply side, correct, not the output side? The pump itself is a pretty simple beast. It's either on or off and that's it.
 
I've no idea about the pressure switch. I didn't install mine, and go right from the pump to the ro flow restrictor on the ro input stage. I have my gauge on a tee between the pump and the flow restrictor. I just turn the pump on and off manually as needed.

Your gauge is on the supply side, correct, not the output side? The pump itself is a pretty simple beast. It's either on or off and that's it.
My gauge is on a Y fitting after the sediment and 2 carbon filters before going into the first membrane. That’s how the R/O system came.
 
Once I changed out my pierce valve for a better flowing supply, my pressure finally increased. Not a fan of those pierce valves personally.

ymmv
 
Once I changed out my pierce valve for a better flowing supply, my pressure finally increased. Not a fan of those pierce valves personally.

ymmv
What did you switch to? I’m willing to try anything.
 
A better water flowing system. on the right is the manual shutoff switch/valve. Turn it on when you want to make water. Turn it off when you’re done. It can be more hi-tech should you choose. Once I switched I finally had about 80-90psi not the 40 psi before with the pierce valve.
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A better water flowing system. on the right is the manual shutoff switch/valve. Turn it on when you want to make water. Turn it off when you’re done. It can be more hi-tech should you choose. Once I switched I finally had about 80-90psi not the 40 psi before with the pierce valve.
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Mine is in copper pipe so I would have to re-plumb my hot water heater. But before the booster pump I was still getting 40-50psi. The booster pump should give me way more and I’m not getting anymore.
 
After reading all this, Im going to say its the booster pump. If you got 40-50 without it, you should get 80 -90 no problem. I would remove the pressure switch or and anything in between the pump and the pressure gauge just to be sure.
 
After reading all this, Im going to say its the booster pump. If you got 40-50 without it, you should get 80 -90 no problem. I would remove the pressure switch or and anything in between the pump and the pressure gauge just to be sure.
To clarify, before getting a new pump I should go: source > pump > gauge > pressure switch > to output?
 
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Mine works fine— vibrates a lot for the first 20 seconds, then quiets right down as the pressure builds to 87 psi. (I use the basic silver faucet connection off the laundry sink.) I think your pump may be bad— you seemed to have ruled out other problems.
 
To clarify, before getting a new pump I should go: source > pump > gauge > pressure switch > to output?
BRS :
*Installation Locations


Before the RO unit –
A pressure gauge installed before any filters or membranes will let you know the pressure that your household tap is producing. This may change from faucet to faucet, but will remain fairly steady over time.


After Micron Filters, Before Membrane – This is our suggested mounting location. This location will show the pressure available after water has traveled through the sediement filters and carbon blocks, and what is feeding the RO membrane. Over time a pressure drop is normal and is a good sign that a micron filter is becoming clogged and should be replaced.
 
Alright, well I replaced all media and membranes. Hooked up the new pump and I am receiving the same result! 35-40psi with the pump on!
 
Alright, well I replaced all media and membranes. Hooked up the new pump and I am receiving the same result! 35-40psi with the pump on!
Something is wrong. Recheck the inputs and outputs. Any adjustable values in the setup?
 

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