Radion G4 pro SPS intensity

[Beyblade]

Hi all,

Trying to determine the right colour strenghts on cool, warm white, red and green spectrums on the g4 pro Radions. The sps ab+ schedule has all sliders at 100% but from speaking with other shops and reading on it these should be lower for cool, warm whites, red and green. I have an sps dominated tank, Radions are hanged on an RMS track which sits on the pelmet and run the overall intensity of the light at 60% with diffusers. Some large green acros towards the top of the tank not showing as vivid colours, but others are fine. One smaller green colony started bleaching gradually over the last few months, to the point it changed from a dark green to patches of white at base and light purple on the top, all over a few months. Any thoughts if this may be down to those spectrums and what should they be run at?

Thanks

 

[dank reefer]

Your whites, red, and green channels should be at 24%, while the other channels should be at 100% at its peak. Then you set your intensity at whatever percentage you want. If you are just starting off with the G4 Pro's or switching over to AB+, run acclimation mode for at least 4-5 weeks. These lights put out a huge amount of par.

 

[TopShelfAquatics Verified Sponsor]

At peak this is our schedule BUT they're 2 feet off the water surface. I recommend a PAR meter

 

[dank reefer]

At peak this is our schedule BUT they're 2 feet off the water surface. I recommend a PAR meter

What are your PAR readings at 2ft with your schedule?

 

[TopShelfAquatics Verified Sponsor]

What are your PAR readings at 2ft with your schedule?

Depending on where in the tank around 400. We have racks in the tank so most readings are from midtank. We also have multiple radions over all the tanks

 

[Beyblade]

Your whites, red, and green channels should be at 24%, while the other channels should be at 100% at its peak. Then you set your intensity at whatever percentage you want. If you are just starting off with the G4 Pro's or switching over to AB+, run acclimation mode for at least 4-5 weeks. These lights put out a huge amount of par.

I’ve used the ab+ at 100% on all channels between 50% to 60% overall intensity for 5-6 months. The height of my lights is over the recommended 9 inch which is when used with RMS mount or RMS track. I don’t understand why Radion would have recommended schedules with such intensities if some channels have to be dropped by 76% as the case with whites, green and red. Not sure if these would have done more harm then good to the corals as few colonies did fade during these times whilst others seem to have done fine and grow. I have 5 radions G4 pro with diffusers over a 5/2/2 feet tank.

 

[dank reefer]

ETM created the schedule after their experiment with Coral Labs to mimic the ATI blue + bulb spectrum. Reason why the white red amd green channels are so low.

 

[TX_Punisher]

Depending on where in the tank around 400. We have racks in the tank so most readings are from midtank. We also have multiple radions over all the tanks

Care to share the G5 settings? I'm about to set up my Pros.

Thanks

 

[TopShelfAquatics Verified Sponsor]

Care to share the G5 settings? I'm about to set up my Pros.

Thanks

Send me a PM with your email we'll send it over

 

[blasterman]

Again, white is not a color. It's a combination of colors.

A cool white LED typically used in reef lights is mostly blue with a smidge of greeen and a and even tinier bit of orange red phosphor. To our eyes it looks white, but to the coral is mostly just another source or blue light. So, it's not the 'spectrum' of white bleaching corals but simply the fact your are adding more blue.

Also, the so called sliders here don't represent radiometric or even relative power levels but just a simple GUI scale of the pulse-width signal that;s turning the driver channel up and down.

You cannot mimmick the exact spectrum on a fluorescent bulb with LED or visa-versa. The spectral peaks of the specific phosphors don't exactly align save for ^~450nm blue which is the only one that really matters.

As a suggestion, turn yellow and green all the way off red just a bit, and the far right blue slider should only be at about 1/4 of where you set 450nm blue (the bar third from left). The first two violet bars are a joke and are just there as a marketing ploy to sell lights.

Adjust intensity / PAR according to how your corals are reacting. Not some flat earth claim you are mimmicking a fluorescent tube.