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radion gen3 pro lighting help please

nelson.jdautobody

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hello fellow reefers. im having what i think is an issue with my lighting set up. i recently (at least 3 months ago) changed my lighting set up from 2 kessill a350 set at 50% blue and 35% white supplemented with 4 t5 bulbs (2 blue, 2 blue+) all in a hood set up placed on top of tank not hung which kinda seemed like overkill on a 40 gallon breeder. so i switched over to the 1 new radion gen3 pro set at 35% relative intensity on "traditional reef" mode and placed about 12" above the water. i was pretty excited to get rid of the timers, hood, and a big reduction in energy draw. but it seems like my corals have gone backwards in health. so i adjusted the light intensity up and down then back then back again but cant seem to get it dialed in where my corals are happy. my acros in particular are losing color (looks like they are browning out). and those are the ones that are still left standing as i have lost $$$$$ in high end sticks and now my plate corals and even my birdsnest and most hardiest acros are going downhill as well. the only things that seem to be really thriving are my bounce and tie dye shrooms (thank goodness for that). i also lost some favias and acans. so last week i set my light to "shallow reef" setting and bumped it up to 50% relative intensity and kicked the light up to 15" above the tank. i check my water peramiters regulary and everything seems to be stable and consistant with what you would want to see
salinity .024
calc 420-430
mag 1350-1400
dkh 8-9 (hanna checker)
ph 8.3
nitrate 2-5ppm
i run a phos reactor with gfo media, bubble magnus doser (alk, calc, mag)
i dont have any algea issues like hair, bipropsis, but do get a little red cyno? at the botttom of the tank n various zones where maybe the flow or lighting isnt spectacular but at the same time i run a vortec on one side of the tank facing the opposite side which has a vortec mp40 both set at around 60% (they were higher but i turned them down a week ago because it seemed like some of my zoas might be getting too much flow.
since my acros and plates seem like they are losing color/turning brown and dying and most everything else seems to be good and the fact the only thing i have really changed in the tank recently is the lighting i just dont think i have this thing dialed in proper. i actually considered bringing back out my hood and t5 bulbs to supplement the lighting but it would seem like 1 radion gen3 pro over
a smaller tank like a 40 gallon breeder i just find it hard to believe that i could possibly need MORE lighting.

if anyone can help me out with a good radion set up that someone who isnt computer illeterate but not exactly tech savvy either i would uber appreicate it.

please let me know exactly the mode, the relative intensity, or if you have a custom set up mode then give my the specific % of where you have set each individual color at. i know its a lot to ask but im desperate at this point and ready to just give up on acros all together and that would suck for me because i think i love sticks the most of all the corals (pearlberry, rr pink floyd, snipers blue lagoon, red planet, pink lemonade just to mention a fraction of the sticks i have lost over the short time i have been reefing. i have wasted thousands on corals and as much as my wife would love nothing more than to see me hang it up all together,i really have a hard time accepting failure...its not in my nature but i feel like giving up on acros and hard corals is just the beginning of giving up completely.

thanks again for any assistance you can provide
 
also based on advise from a previous thread i posted a while back im going too turn off my phos reactor and my doser and go to a thwice a week 5 gallon water change. currently i do 1 water change of 5 gallons per week. i use red sea salt (regular. i used pro for a while long ago but since its really high in alk i didnt thing 12-13 alk would be good for my corals long term so i switched the the regular and went with a doser for better control)
 
image.jpg
 
I had a problem with the gen 2. My acros didn't really like it I guess also. It looks like it's all the corals directly under the lens. Those pucks get super hot and bright. Have u tried a different spectrum 20k? How about anything on the side of your tank acros are they doing ok? Another is alk. Maybe 10 or 11 dpm.with sps.
 
wrong section but I had a Gen3 and i had same issue. i went from T5 and all my stuff was doing well and when i got the radion all my sps color just took a crap. I got rid of it and now run 2 A350w lights and within 1 week my sps are already showing they are coloring back up.
 
Run it on the radiant color setting. The whites on the radion are too strong for most corals. Being the previous owner of a g1 for years then getting a G2 pro I know what you are going through...LOL.... With the lighting set up you had before I would recommend you setting the radiant color at 70% intensity and have it about 14" off the water
 
I had a problem with the gen 2. My acros didn't really like it I guess also. It looks like it's all the corals directly under the lens. Those pucks get super hot and bright. Have u tried a different spectrum 20k? How about anything on the side of your tank acros are they doing ok? Another is alk. Maybe 10 or 11 dpm.with sps.
i havnt tried the 20k spectrum(well at least not that im aware of-lol-so many options on this thing). as far as the side of the tanks acro growth goes i dont really have any acros growing to the side except a pink birdsnest and it went down also (i fragged it into several smaller branches to save the unaffected parts) and i also have a sunset monti thats no longer red, more like brown with green polyps :( i will bump my alk up though because i have read alot of things from other reefers that say they keep thier alk around 10 for better acro health (always heard before that 10 was a bit high so i worked hard to get it down to 8-9 but since they arent doing well with that anymore i will pretty much try anything. thanks
 
I run mine on the radiant setting. I have slowly ramped it up to 50% with a loooong acclimation period. I then went in and edited the colors so that the whites never go over 15%. The g3 should def be able to handle some sticks with the addition of uv (I have g2's). The key is getting the lights set right. Let us know how it goes
 
Run it on the radiant color setting. The whites on the radion are too strong for most corals. Being the previous owner of a g1 for years then getting a G2 pro I know what you are going through...LOL.... With the lighting set up you had before I would recommend you setting the radiant color at 70% intensity and have it about 14" off the water
hmmm, i will look for that setting. i didnt think it would be very good when i was looking at the color spectrum graph for all the settings when i changed it last week to "shallow reef" setting. i originally had it set on the pre-set 12 hours light mode and a friend suggested i may be cooking my coral so i reduced the light cycle to 8 hours. either way its made no differance in my coral health. i know i cant really expect to see an immediate differance in my coral but after a bit over a week now i felt like i should at least see some improvement if they were getting happy again. thanks for the tip, im going to switch it over to that setting right now online and i will lower the light when i get home. do you think i should bump the light cycle back to the 12 hours? since several of those hours are just the moonlight mode anyways? thanks again
 
I run mine on the radiant setting. I have slowly ramped it up to 50% with a loooong acclimation period. I then went in and edited the colors so that the whites never go over 15%. The g3 should def be able to handle some sticks with the addition of uv (I have g2's). The key is getting the lights set right. Let us know how it goes

thats 2 votes now for the radiant settings, i think i may be onto something-lol. when you "edited" the whites spectrum does that mean that after you set the light to "radiant" mode that you can go to the colors section and adjust it without it actually being a "custom" mode set up? there so many options sometimes its a detriment. when i set it on shallow reef mode i then started clicking on the open screen area and a pop up window came up showing all the color tables but i thought i wasnt able to adjust those without basically taking it out of the shallow reef mode. i will tweek with it for a few
 
image.jpg

So this is the set up I put it on
20k kelvin
Uv is 100%
Royal blue 100
Blue 75
Cool white 15
Green 15
Hyper red 40
Brightness 50%

Starts at 9am and ends at 9pm

Does this sound like you guys had in mind? If I need to tweet it let me know, thanks
 
the part that confuses me a bit is on the graph to the left of my last post picture i set the "brightness" at 50%, but yet the yellow line at the front of the box to the right of the graph (just below the "individual colors" tab) is at 100%
so my question is....should i have the "brightness" column on the left of screen set at 100% and then move the yellow line below the "individual colors" tab at 50%? or should they both be set at 50%? or should i leave it exactly like i have it?

just not sure if the "brightness" column is referring to the "relative intensity" or if its the yellow line to the right of the screen that adjusts the relative intensity. dohhh!!
 
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Go back and restart... Just do the radiant color setting and then click on the circle on the yellow line that says 100%. That is the over all intensity. Bring that down to 70% and then hit program all then leave it
 

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