Radion only settings for SPS

[nbd13]

Hey everyone,

So what does everyone has their radions set to for sps when they are only running radions?

I have mine hooked up to Apex with wxm and found someone’s program for coral ab+.

I just got back into the hobby after being out for 12 years. I used to be s MH guy (14k Phoenix bulbs) and supplement with t5s.

These radions are so blue to me.

Thanks

 

[blkhawk10]

I use the coral lab sps ab+ but I modify mine by turning the whites up a little more.

 

[ectoaesthetics]

I plan on running the AB+ but I really don’t mind the windex look. I feel it is pretty close to what the Reefs really look like @ 20m anyway.

However I certainly understand running things a bit warmer. Try the PHX14 settings! Especially if you were a Phoenix 14k guy anyway!!! Everyone seems to have gravitated towards the AB+ and ignored the PHX14 but it can be better for certain SPS corals as well. Just depends on what you are growing. Link below:

https://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/ReefWholesale_CoralLab.pdf

 

[nbd13]

I plan on running the AB+ but I really don’t mind the windex look. I feel it is pretty close to what the Reefs really look like @ 20m anyway.

However I certainly understand running things a bit warmer. Try the PHX14 settings! Especially if you were a Phoenix 14k guy anyway!!! Everyone seems to have gravitated towards the AB+ and ignored the PHX14 but it can be better for certain SPS corals as well. Just depends on what you are growing. Link below:

https://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/ReefWholesale_CoralLab.pdf

Thanks, but is there a setting in Apex for PHX14k?

Thanks

 

[jda]

If you are into the "older school" look, check out Dr. Joshi and some of the larger costal vendors that run their Radions at 100% on all channels. They do have them up higher off of the water. It is a 12-15k look (hard to define).

You will just go crazy trying to find a 14k Phoenix or 20k Radium setting. It will not happen. They are just different. You might like them better, or worse, but they will not be the same.

 

[nbd13]

If you are into the "older school" look, check out Dr. Joshi and some of the larger costal vendors that run their Radions at 100% on all channels. They do have them up higher off of the water. It is a 12-15k look (hard to define).

You will just go crazy trying to find a 14k Phoenix or 20k Radium setting. It will not happen. They are just different. You might like them better, or worse, but they will not be the same.

Thanks. You don’t know how high off the water they have them do you?

I’m fine with the “blue” look, just would like it a little more white. I upped the 2 white channels to 30 and that didn’t really do much. Maybe I’ll try 40 and see.

 

[ectoaesthetics]

As for an Apex setting for the PHX14, one would just set the white to 24%, the red to 30%, the green to 17%, and everything else to 100% in the Apex window. There might be a button or something now, but there wasn’t the last time I was playing with my Apex/Neptune lighting (which was a long time ago lol).

 

[jda]

They have them more than foot off of the water. Some more.

Most of the best LED tanks that I have ever seen have their panels at 100% on all channels and up really high off the water line.

 

[blackizzz]

Obviously running the LEDs higher off the tank, and at a higher intensity will help increase coverage and colour blend while decreasing spotlight effect as well

Doesn't WWC run their radions like 2 feet above the tanks?

 

[jda]

On some tanks. Please do not try and be like WWC... they also run theirs for many, many hours more than most folks and they have different needs and goals than a reefer. Therman or Dr. Joshi are better examples, IMO.

I am not saying that you cannot learn anything from WWC, Jason Fox, Vivid, etc, but just picking and choosing parts of their approach without taking it all can be dangerous.

 

[nbd13]

Thanks guys.

I have my radions with diffusers and about 18” off the water. I have a PAR meter and may mess with that a little.

Maybe I will adjust the setting a little as the “blue” look is not for me. Seems like these “colors” people are getting are just from pictures taken under the more “blue” light. 10-12 years ago I would still get great colors with my MHs and T5s.

I do like not having to run a chiller from the heat that the MHs used to give off.

Thanks again!