Radiums vs. Non Radiums.
- Thread starter KingRicky
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IMO no, the extra cost is not justified. To some it is. I would love to hear someone explain why our MH bulbs cost soo much more than industrial lamps (lower k temps). Is the manufacturing process that much different? or is it just a volume (sold) issue.
True. But a lot of that has to do with the age of the bulb. Just like our bulbs, industrial bulbs color shift after time. Hell, even the CF bulbs in my household fixtures look yellow after a year or so.
Part of the added cost, part of it is different materials, but most of it is that the manufacturers know that they can mark the bulbs up more because they're hobby related and they know that us morons will pay that kind of money.
To me, an extra $10 for a Radium is worth it to not have brown corals....
Sikryd
hmm...Sweet!
Same here.
I am a nickle and dimer, BIG TIME. Although there are a few things I learned in the hobby the hard way...you get what you pay for, and this isn't the hobby to go cheap - unless you have to.
I've seen GREAT color out of all kinds of bulbs. The BEST color I have seen is with radiums. This obviously can be for a variety of reasons. Although I am in the camp that says I would rather eliminate the possibilities and the guesswork.
Hence me going with 14k Phoenix's and not debating the reasons why everyone uses them or trying to spend a bunch of money finding another combo that works. I leave that to the guys with extra $ and time.
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ddiver
Fragging Extraordinaire
I just switched from 250 DE Phoenix' on a Infinity fixture to radiums on Lumenmax Elites ran by a Bluewave ballast and the difference is like night and day..the radiums are twice as bright and I'm glad I made the switch..
DDiver, are your radiums DE as well?
Sikryd, you'll like the Phoenix bubls. There were my 1st MH bulbs I used. I switched to 20K XMs recently as my phoenix bulb finally ended its term. XM's aren't bad at all, not as bright as the phoenix, and has more blue than the phoenix.
Sikryd, you'll like the Phoenix bubls. There were my 1st MH bulbs I used. I switched to 20K XMs recently as my phoenix bulb finally ended its term. XM's aren't bad at all, not as bright as the phoenix, and has more blue than the phoenix.
this is it, i don't even believe the material argument at all, i recently got 20K bulbs for $10 of ebay...i know you get what you pay for...but the point is they look great and the PAR is okay, same materials, it has to be that they are jamming us, I can understand a markup but come on, hopefully these cheaper bulbs become more popular and drive the name brands down.
would the Lumatek 400 dimmable ballast go well with the 250w 20k Radiums?
Lumatek 400W 120/240V Dimmable / Multi-Wattage (250W, 400W) Ballast
Lumatek 400W 120/240V Dimmable / Multi-Wattage (250W, 400W) Ballast
ddiver
Fragging Extraordinaire
nope, like Ike said they don't make 250 DEs.
i run mine on the BlueWave magnetic ballast and its the perfect coloration..not too blue like most people say at all IMO..
iani
Valuable Member
The best ballast for the 250w 20k radium is a m80/hqi ballast. The only company currently making them in the US that I know is Hamilton.
texsun
Community Member
Just picked up an EVC 250w DE bulb (supposedly the same as Helios). I really like the color. It's slightly less blue than the Phoenix but red and orange pop like they were under actinics. Prior to this my favorite was the Reeflux 12k
I am thinking about switching to a 20K radium on my Sunpod 150W DE...i am currently running a Phoenix 14K but looking for more pop.
Would a 20K radium run on the sunpod (internal electronic driving ballast) without problems?
Would a 20K radium run on the sunpod (internal electronic driving ballast) without problems?
JR's Reef
Joey08
Ricky why are you wanting to change? As you know I got rid of mine to change over to T5s and I get better color with T5s than I did with radiums. The growth slowed on SPS but picked up on LPS/zoas.Im okay with that due to the cooler temp my tank runs.
That is going to be a biggie also your tank is going to run warmer and your going to have to find away to keep it cool. I think you run 4 T5s? I would add 2 more and run 5 blue+ and 1 white or a fiji purple. IMO I would I would stick with the T5s and just change bulbs. You can change all your bulbs and add 2 more for just about the same that your going to spend on 2 radium bulbs alone
That is going to be a biggie also your tank is going to run warmer and your going to have to find away to keep it cool. I think you run 4 T5s? I would add 2 more and run 5 blue+ and 1 white or a fiji purple. IMO I would I would stick with the T5s and just change bulbs. You can change all your bulbs and add 2 more for just about the same that your going to spend on 2 radium bulbs alone
Just picked up an EVC 250w DE bulb (supposedly the same as Helios). I really like the color. It's slightly less blue than the Phoenix but red and orange pop like they were under actinics. Prior to this my favorite was the Reeflux 12k
Can you post pics, I've been thinking about trying the EVC 250 DE's 20Ks
Can you post pics, I've been thinking about trying the EVC 250 DE's 20Ks
Jeremy R.
Community Member
The Radiums are too blue for may tastes. But for those that want the blue look then the Radium is hard to beat. I have tried/tested many lamps over the years and I continue to stick with the Reeflux 12k. This past weekend I tested the 12k reeflux and the Radium on a 250w dimmable CV ballast overdriven. The par was very close to the same. The only difference was the apparent color and the Reeflux looked brighter. So don't be fooled that the radium lamp looks dim because more than likely its producing more par than imagined especially for a 20k. So to the OP if your looking for a real 20k blue looking tank where everything seems to pop in color then look into the Radium and make sure you run it on a recommended ballast.
ficklefins
Super Duper Moderator
Yes, it will run on that fixture. I've got that exact same setup on my Biocube 29
