Raising temperature

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Cory

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Would it be okay to raise my tanks temperature to 35 celcius for a day?
 
To kill dinos
 
Temperature tolerances of toxic dinoflagellate cysts: application to the treatment of ships' ballast water

Abstract
Using toxic dinoflagellates and their resistant resting cysts as model organisms, we demonstrate the potential of heat treatment as a method to minimise the transport of harmful aquatic organisms via ships' ballast water. Vegetative dinoflagellate cultures of Gymnodinium catenatum could be readily killed using temperatures as low as 35 °C and treatment times in the range 30 minutes to 5 h. The resistant resting cysts (hypnozygotes) of G. catenatum were killed after 2 h at 35 °C and the cysts of Alexandrium catenella were killed after 4.5 h at 38 °C . A careful assessment of various waste heat sources on the BHP bulk carrier ‘Iron Whyalla’ has confirmed the practicability of this approach, and a successful pilot heat treatment plant was trialled on-board ship in April 1997.
 
dissolvedoxygen_fresh-salt.jpg
 
Heres some quotes ive found it seems risky anything over 90f.

It's all relative but I do believe that conditioning your tank to take more drastic temperature levels is a good thing if you can do it. I have a 24g at my office that had a 150W MH +36W T5 actinics on it and it would run from 78F to 88F every day. We got hit by a hurricane a couple of years ago (I live in South Louisiana) and the office was out of power for 3 days. The tank had minimal circulation (Koralia 2 on batter backup) and reached temps of 93F. I only lost one of my two clownfish. All of my mushrooms, hammer coral, frogspawn, zoas, and SPS survived with no lights and very high temps.

Now, I have LEDs on the tank and the temp barely breaks 79F in the middle of summer. I honestly don't think it would fare nearly as well given another hurrican episode like it went through.
My tank reached 88 Degrees 2 days ago and everything lived like it didn't even phase the corals. The average temp my tank fluctuates from 82-84 daily.
The tank ended up at 88* for at least a few hours. There were no negative indicators and that tank is a true mixed reef (acros, zoas, leathers, ricordeas, caulastrea, BTA's, acans, etc.). I then (irresponsibly) brought it back to the usual 78* over the course of about 6 hours. Again, no negative repercussions whatsoever.
tank before I sold it the temp would be between 82-84 during winter and 84-86 during the summer. When it would hit around 120 outside I would have to put fans on the tank to keep it under 90. So I have no doubt your tank is running fine there.
I had a frag tank ran around 92 with lights on. Grew like crazy.
The tank temp rose to 88-90. I didn’t lose any corals or fish
Tanks were 90-92 degrees for 6 days last summer when central air broke down, no loses.
There are plenty of reefs in the world where the water hits 94 degrees every day at low tide, and it doesn't seem to do any harm.
 
If you do raise it to 35c (95f) I would take everything out of the tank except the water! That way when you bring it back down to normal everything will be alive instead of dead. I would look at some other option to conquer your dilemma.
 
I’ve seen a full LPS/softie reef crash somewhere in the low 90’s. Middle of winter and a neighbor’s apartment thermostat went haywire while he was gone for a weekend. Everything other than maybe o e fish died. On the flip side I knew a guy whose tank would hit 85-86 daily in the summer. SPS dominant reef that did great.

So, plausible yes, but I wouldn’t try it until I had exhausted other options.

Have you ensured your phosphate isn’t bottomed out?
 
It seems unlikely to me to be able to selectively kill only dinos. The first sentence of the researchers paper says they selected them as a model for how to kill everything in the ballast hold.
 
Bro, don’t do that. You’re gonna kill your coral, fish, bacteria, algae, et cetera. Yeah maybe other people’s aquariums survived like that for a little while but that was by the grace of God... don’t test God... XD
 
Temperature tolerances of toxic dinoflagellate cysts: application to the treatment of ships' ballast water

Abstract
Using toxic dinoflagellates and their resistant resting cysts as model organisms, we demonstrate the potential of heat treatment as a method to minimise the transport of harmful aquatic organisms via ships' ballast water. Vegetative dinoflagellate cultures of Gymnodinium catenatum could be readily killed using temperatures as low as 35 °C and treatment times in the range 30 minutes to 5 h. The resistant resting cysts (hypnozygotes) of G. catenatum were killed after 2 h at 35 °C and the cysts of Alexandrium catenella were killed after 4.5 h at 38 °C . A careful assessment of various waste heat sources on the BHP bulk carrier ‘Iron Whyalla’ has confirmed the practicability of this approach, and a successful pilot heat treatment plant was trialled on-board ship in April 1997.

I just read the answers to your question. I agree, experimenting on an entire system is a bit too risky. But let’s play with the idea anyway.

If the dinos are in the water column, could you pass the system water through a short loop where it is heated and then cooled before returning to the aquarium? High temperature for a short time might work. It would definitely disturb everything else passing through the heated coil, but how is that different from a UV light?

If the dinos are on surfaces and don’t spend much time in the water column, you need a local treatment. Speaking of UV, has anyone tried holding a water proof UV lamp over a patch of dinos to kill them? For A local heat treatment, you would need a heated plate that you could hold against the dino patch to make locale bad for them.

Off topic a bit, but I wondered if anyone has injected a bottled bacteria into a dino patch to directly inoculate it at the site if infection. Ditto for a cyano patch.

Many problems to address with any new approach. Keep exploring or better yet try some experiments - outside the aquarium of course :-)

Dan
 
There is precedent in freshwater using temperature in conditions that it kills the parasite while still being just inside what the livestock can handle. At the risk of desensitizing the pest I would take my tank and give it a daily swing to say 84 °F, then the next week 85 °F, and go one degree higher every day. This would give the coral a month to get used to it. If you see a point at which the dinos die, you stop. If you see a point at which the livestock is suffering, you stop.

I think the dinos are surface based, which, ignoring the massive energy requirement to heat and cool all return water that much, would mean they survive. For surfaces I'm worried about surfaces you can't see. A laser would be a way to locally heat surfaces, but would almost certainly be far from eye safe at the power required to heat any decent area enough to kill off the dinos on a patch of rock.

I've seen some people encouraging diatom blooms as a way to eradicate dinos, so there may be a silicate or phosphate dosing solution to this that carries less risk to the rest of the livestock.
 
Yes i think 35 c may be too high for my liking. But i may try to reach 90f. Whats your thoughts on 90f?

My yellow tang was covered in the strings today lol.
 
I think it's pushing your luck, but not a guarantee either way (death for all vs. solving the problem). Any temperature above the low to mid 80's I would recommend approaching as described in post #17.

I'm also not convinced you cannot beat this in a reasonably short period of time with a nutrient shift. Have you performed phosphate/nitrate tests?
 

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