Random RTNing am I nuking my tank with light?

[a.t.t.r]

He should lower intensity, not remove lights. Two lights at lower intensity are much better than one at higher - because you get multi-directional light, and not nearly as many issues with shading inside colonies. This is why pretty much every lighting manufacturer (except kessil) keeps moving towards wider spacing of diodes. (and why big halide reflectors are better)


I currently run 4 gen3/4 XR15s over a 24" cube. It works great. Much better than when I was running a single XR30

What intensity you running those at?

 

[92Miata]

What intensity you running those at?

40-50% If I remember correctly.

So probably similar par as running an XR30 at full blast - just way better distributed.

 

[a.t.t.r]

That seems way too low for par numbers with those two lights at very high intensities but I could be wrong

Could you also list the par meter model, your water parameters (nitrate, and phosphate) , and the flow setup?


I would predict bleaching, not tissue necrosis from light being too intense, as the light wouldn't kill the coral immediately, but could result in the zooxanthellae dying and the coral being bleached for a bit followed by death

Model is Qmss-e apogee

 

[Spare time]

Model is Qmss-e apogee

This might be helpful. Some others more familiar with the unit may chime in here. If I understand it correctly, the numbers you read may be lower than the real value.

Is there a conversion factor for using an Apogee QMSS-E PAR meter on LED's?

Hey guys, I know there are often correction conversions that need to be made to correct PAR numbers when measuring LED's. I used a QMSS-E. Is there a conversion factor I need to plug into my numbers?

www.reef2reef.com

 

[a.t.t.r]

This might be helpful. Some others more familiar with the unit may chime in here. If I understand it correctly, the numbers you read may be lower than the real value.

Is there a conversion factor for using an Apogee QMSS-E PAR meter on LED's?

Hey guys, I know there are often correction conversions that need to be made to correct PAR numbers when measuring LED's. I used a QMSS-E. Is there a conversion factor I need to plug into my numbers?

www.reef2reef.com

Yeah seems the meter they are talking about is the same one. So besides the 8 percent offset (which is nothing). I’m looking at the sensitivity curve. Which at 400 nm can be as low as 40 percent of value.

 

[a.t.t.r]

About 200 par at peak where Montis are and 300-400 where acros are. And this is again using an old meter and at time of measure I would say apx 14k equivalent color temp.

 

[North Borders]

I have a Reefer 250 and I'm running 2 XR15's about 14" off the water at 66% intensity. To give you an idea. 2 XR15s at 100% is likely wayyyy too much. Id dial it back to 45-50% and very slowly increase. Like no more often than every 3 to 4 days and only a couple % at a time, and definitely not to 100%. Id probably stop in the 60s personally.

 

[c0kefree]

For what it’s worth, i believe those par numbers are way off. My single radion xr15 9” above the water line is ~320 par at ~5” deep in my 20g without the diffuser at 100%.
at 60% i get ~200 at the same area.

 

[a.t.t.r]

For what it’s worth, i believe those par numbers are way off. My single radion xr15 9” above the water line is ~320 par at ~5” deep in my 20g without the diffuser at 100%.
at 60% i get ~200 at the same area.

I’m at 50 percent running the vibrant color template now.

350 at 100 percent at 5 inches seems low tbh