RapidLed ??

[adamfinke]

I'm putting together my RapidLed setup for my 90g. My question is: Is there any lighting combinations that work well or just go with what Rapid has in the kit? This is the kit they have for a 90g. Thanks for the help.

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[h=2]Standard 90g Tank Dimmable Kit[/h]$475.00
This is our recommended set-up for a standard 90g (48" x 18" x 25") mixed reef tank. Since this is a dimmable kit you will need a reef controller or potentiometers + 10V AC adapter or your lights will not turn on. You'll also need a soldering iron/solder, a place to hang the lights from, and some screws to install the hanging kit. If you would like a different color set-up feel free to list your color choice under "LED Color Ratio", there is no additional charge to swap/substitute colors. The ratio we have listed is roughly 15-16k in color temperaure. If you have any special requests (ie. different angled lens, different colored wire) please feel free to list that under the notes section when checking out. This kit will ship via UPS Ground within the US.

• 2 x 6" x 20" Drilled/Tapped Heatsinks or 2 x 1.4" x 48" Drilled/Tapped Heatsinks

• 2 x 20" splash guards (only if getting the 20" heatsinks)

• 18 Cool White Cree XP-G R5 LEDs

• 20 Royal Blue Cree XT-E LEDs

• 6 Violet UV LEDs

• 2 Red Cree XP-E LEDs

• 2 Green Cree XP-E LEDs

• 48 x 60 degree lenses (we recommend hanging the lights about 12" off the water, if it's much closer than that then go with 80 degree lenses instead)

• 4 Mean Well ELN-60-48D or 4 Mean Well ELN-60-48P drivers (Please make sure to adjust the SVR2 to the correct output levels on these drivers!)

• 1 Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive (for the lenses) and 1 tube of Thermal Grease (for the LEDs)

• 2 Y-shaped Hanging Kits

• 8 water resistant wire nuts

• 4 power cords (US + Canada orders only)

• 15' Black Bulk Wire

• 15' Red Bulk Wire

 

[Dave A]

There are many combinations that work well. There are many others that will work if your goal is to grow coral, but don't look very good when viewing the tank.
Generally, combinations using Cool White fall into the second group. Cool White is nothing but more Royal Blue light with enough green and yellow mixed in to make it look kinda white-ish. Switching to a Neutral or Warm white will add more orange and red light that are required by many pigments and will have the added advantage of giving you a much more natural looking light.
A few other things you may want to change. There is no reason at all to ever use a green LED. All white LEDs emit green light and most of them have a significant portion of their output in this part of the spectrum. Green is the least useful part of the spectrum in photosynthesis and your whites will give you a ton of it, why would you want to add green LEDs?
Red LEDs are important, probably the third most important part of the spectrum after violet and RB. That said, the number you will need will vary depending on the type of White LEDs you choose. Warm whites are warm because they include plenty of red in their output, you may not need to add red LEDs at all if you use warm whites. Neutral whites include a little red as well so you'd only need to supplement them with a few Deep Reds (>650nm) to cover that end of the spectrum correctly. Cool whites have no red at all and very little orange. I'd start with 6 reds and be prepared to add a couple more.
Violet is just as important to photosynthesis as RB. Chlorophyll A is, by far, the prevailent pigment in our corals and it will do best with light in the 405-450nm range, along with a little deep red ~660nm. I'd want a lot more than 6 of them over a 90 gal, in fact, I have 10 of them on my 90 and I'm thinking of adding a few more. I have my doubts about that site's "UV/Violet" LEDs. UV is what we call light that is below 400nm and is invisible to the human eye, violet is 400nm to about 430 or 435nm and is visible to the human eye but will appear to be dimmer than it really is because our eyes don't respond to it very well. That site says their "UV/violets emit 410-420nm (which is violet, not UV) but thet also show a spectrograph that indicates the dominant frequency is around 405nm and most output is 400-410nm. I'd want to be sure of what I was getting, 410-420nm is great, but I don't think I'd bother with the ones in that spectrograph.
Royal Blue is commonly considered to be the most important part of the spectrum for our corals. As mentioned above, Chlorophyll A utilizes light in the 405-450nm range, so I'd be looking for emitters in that range. The ones you linked are listed as 450-465nm, this is less than ideal. I've used them myself, but I won't be using them in the future, I'm just not impressed with them and their output is geared more toward Chlorophyll B (found in macroalgae) than Chlorophyll A.
I'd suggest adding some blue LEDs, or maybe cyan, since several pigments can use light in the 460-500nm range. I've found that blue can become overpowering fairly quickly so no more than 10% of your LEDs in this part of the spectrum.
I'm not convinced that 48 LEDs is enough for a 90 gallon tank. A lot will depend on the current you run through the emitters and several of the LEDs listed can only be run below 700mA so at least one driver will need to be run at an appropriate current level. You certainly don't want to run any LEDs at their maximum current, this will reduce their life expectancy quite a bit. I'm currently running 66 LEDs over my 90 gal with 90 degree lenses at about 8" and, as I mentioned above, I'm thinking about adding more violet LEDs.

 

[adamfinke]

Are you running rapid? I was also looking at the maxspect razor. I have a wood canopy that I will be mounting them in. I really appreciate your help.

 

[Djannel]

I would love some more info on this as well.


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[fragmatic]

Same set I built. 'cept I built them on the 36" rails. If you have room for all of them put them on. Figure out your locations so they mix. Wire them in series and divide evenly between drivers. I later nixed the lenses. You will have plenty of light without them IMO. And the lenses are a PITA, when you bump them they fall off and need re-glued, frequently. Besides I like the effects and coverage better without the lenses. Did you get the dimer pots? If so I wired two drivers to each and made sure the blues and whites were on opposite dimer pots.