Rate my Red Sea Reefer v3 manifold

[West1]

I'm near the end of my dryrock brute cycle and now it's time to figure out the manifold. I have only seen one V3 sump manifold (pump on same side of Return Line).

I'm using a Deepwater bldc 5 pump and the first 12" of sch80 is 1". Once I hit the 1" T, it reduces to 3/4" (I purposely used 3/4" threaded on Return Line in case I ever need/want to upgrade to 1" sch80).

My plan is to try the Triton method with chaeto as first chamber. I do plan to start running GFO and carbon with the 3/4" manifold until my chaeto grows large enough to sustain without GFO.

I've only glued the return section, the manifold can be modified.

Suggestions, concerns and comments are welcome!

 

[John3]

I just got done putting together my 350 with V3 sump. I filled it with fresh to check for leaks and played with the valve. I hate the stock valve and I’m already switching over to a Spears gate valve. Something you might want to consider at this point.

 

[West1]

I just got done putting together my 350 with V3 sump. I filled it with fresh to check for leaks and played with the valve. I hate the stock valve and I’m already switching over to a Spears gate valve. Something you might want to consider at this point.

I have the 3/4 gate valve, that's getting done next

 

[West1]

TTT

 

[sharpimage]

looks fine. you really didn't need the valve in the middle, and make sure you can get a hose on the right side barb and your good to go

 

[bdeppen]

Looks pretty legit. Nice clean plumbing.

 

[bdeppen]

looks fine. you really didn't need the valve in the middle, and make sure you can get a hose on the right side barb and your good to go

This actually isn’t a bad idea in case he needs to add more lines to the manifold in the future.

 

[sharpimage]

This actually isn’t a bad idea in case he needs to add more lines to the manifold in the future.

Since the elbow and tee's are touching, it might be difficult to add ore in the future.

 

[West1]

looks fine. you really didn't need the valve in the middle, and make sure you can get a hose on the right side barb and your good to go

Ty.
The middle valve was placed in case I need to add or clean the rest of it. I think the union is not needed tho.

 

[Futuretotm]

Hey do you have a part list for your manifold?

 

[Jason23]

Any updates pics of the setup? I’m trying to make a manifold atm but I have the ato sitting on top still with possible ato/refugium conversion

 

[Futuretotm]

Yes it is possible, I have more pics in my thread

 

[Jason23]

Yes it is possible, I have more pics in my thread

Nice how is it working out for you. And don’t realize we talked about the control board diy a while back ago lol

 

[Jason23]

Yes it is possible, I have more pics in my thread

Does your ato fit?

 

[Futuretotm]

Does your ato fit?

yup it does, although I plan to use one of the partitions as a fuge rather than the ato

 

[Jason23]

yup it does, although I plan to use one of the partitions as a fuge rather than the ato

Awesome. I was thinking that to but I don’t like how I have to use tha chamber in front of skimmer I wish I could switch it around

 

[aggrofish]

Bump. Looking to make a manifold for the V3 sump. How did this turn out? What did you need up connecting to it? Anything you would have done different? not gonna lie, might just copy this...

 

[West1]

Bump. Looking to make a manifold for the V3 sump. How did this turn out? What did you need up connecting to it? Anything you would have done different? not gonna lie, might just copy this...

Still running it and everything is good.
My advice is put the clips in holding the manifold first. Then glue the rest of the PVC to the T where the return pump, tank return and manifold meet. Put all pieces with as little bending pressure as possible. The last thing you want is the glass of the bulkhead to crack.