RBTA: Would love some help and advice

[Adam Goldberg]

Hello all,
my question is- what can I do to Improve my RBTA's health.
This is my first post. Thank you for viewing and or reading. I am new to the hobby and have started a 10 gallon reef tank. If I use any incorrect lingo please correct me. I am eager to learn and can take constructive criticism. I currently have a nuvo marine 10 gallon tank and am running it with a kessil a80, Eshopps nano protein skimmer, and hydor pump 240gph. Inhabitants: one Rainbow Rose Bubble Tip Anemone, and one soft coral pictured (idk the name). As I said I am new to the hobby, and well I made a stupid mistake. When cycling my tank I topped my tank off with salt water (I now know that was stupid) I did not buy a test kit until I purchased my RBTA and coral. I bought a cheap 15 dollar hydrometer. At first my RBTA and coral (coral is current pic) looked great!

After noticing that my RBTA detached itself I took my water to be tested.

I felt sick to my stomach when the shop owner told me it was 1.038! I purchased a much more expensive hydrometer and I slowly lowered the salinity to where it is at now at 1.028 (I realize this is still way to high but because I want your advice I am waiting). Now my RBTA has moved to the bottom of the tank and seems ill. This also occurred after I added some more live rock. I made sure he was in a similar position afterwards but he still moved to the bottom of the tank.

I realize he may be stressed.I also have taken a picture of my light to make sure it's at the appropriate settings.

The lighting in most of the pictures is all the way white just to improve your view of the tank. Thank you so much for reading this and potentially posting. I understand I have made some serious errors but the goal of this post is for me to learn and improve. So please tell me anything you think is relevant. If I have added any unnecessary information I apologize, however, if you need anymore information please ask!

Thanks Again!

AG

 

[Adam Goldberg]

sorry my pictures didn't post

 

[Adam Goldberg]

 

[njtiger aquariums]

Ok first off the other soft coral looks like a Kenya tree.

By what I can tell your nem looks ok, maybe a little stress but ok. I would continue to slowly lower you salt level to 1.025/1..026. How long have the nem been in the tank? Did you lower the light and ramp it up over days after adding the nem and coral?

 

[DSC reef]

Honestly the nem doesn't look to bad. Just lower the salinity with RO top off slowly and leave it be. Don't try to intervene or feed it. We've all made mistakes, it happens.

 

[AcroNem]

The leather coral is a Capnella species, or Kenya tree leather. Your anemone really doesn't look bad. It seems to be adjusting to your system but appears inflated and otherwise okay. In the picture where I could see the mouth it isn't gaping either so for now just slowly adjust your salinity back to normal and let it figure out where it wants to be. If you have more questions don't hesitate

 

[Adam Goldberg]

Thank you all so much for replying.
I did not ramp up the light. I just turned it on to about 25% from day one. I have been feeding him 8-10 drops of Photo feast twice weekly. The light is on 6-7 hours a day. Is that too much? Thank you!

 

[AcroNem]

Thank you all so much for replying.
I did not ramp up the light. I just turned it on to about 25% from day one. I have been feeding him 8-10 drops of Photo feast twice weekly. The light is on 6-7 hours a day. Is that too much? Thank you!

That's probably fine for light, but watch how it's responding if its color is getting lighter or if it's expanding way too much. For food, out to feast/phytoplankton will help the microfauna and some corals in your system but when you start feeding your nem I'd suggest something a little larger. Mysis shrimp, Pacific plankton, small krill, chopped up silversides will all be accepted.

 

[Adam Goldberg]

That's probably fine for light, but watch how it's responding if its color is getting lighter or if it's expanding way too much. For food, out to feast/phytoplankton will help the microfauna and some corals in your system but when you start feeding your nem I'd suggest something a little larger. Mysis shrimp, Pacific plankton, small krill, chopped up silversides will all be accepted.

Thank you! I have had him for one week. At what point would you recommend feeding him (Mysis shrimp, Pacific plankton, small krill, or chopped up silversides?) Also- If introduce a clown fish will I still feed him those things listed or allow the clown to take control?

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

Just a couple basic questions for ya..

1. How old is your tank?
2. Do you have and ATO (automatic top off)?
3. Where did the live rock you added later come from?
4. Is your tank completely cycled?
5. What are your other parameters?

The reason I ask these questions are simple.

1. when you introduce the new live rock into your system it could have started a mini cycle. That could be another reason your BTA isn't happy.

2. BTAs really do not like any changes in your tank so if you don't have an ATO then it would be a nice add on for you... and you can find one relatively cheap. This would keep your SG constant which the BTA really likes.

3. If your tank is relatively new then I could still growing the necessary good bacteria needed to keep your tank stable. So that there are no parameter swings, which in a nano tank come fast and furious..

4. Any kind of deviations in your parameters can make them moody. Not just your basic ones (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph) but also calcium, alk, and magnesium.

The best advise I can give you for the BTA is do everything in your power to keep the tank stable. Temp swings, parameters moving up and down, even the lights being readjusted can effect them. Especially in a tank the size of yours... The smaller the tank the faster your numbers can go crazy. On a good note the BTA doesn't look bad as stated above. I would use the advice given and just monitor him and your parameters.

 

[Adam Goldberg]

Just a couple basic questions for ya..

1. How old is your tank?
2. Do you have and ATO (automatic top off)?
3. Where did the live rock you added later come from?
4. Is your tank completely cycled?
5. What are your other parameters?

The reason I ask these questions are simple.

1. when you introduce the new live rock into your system it could have started a mini cycle. That could be another reason your BTA isn't happy.

2. BTAs really do not like any changes in your tank so if you don't have an ATO then it would be a nice add on for you... and you can find one relatively cheap. This would keep your SG constant which the BTA really likes.

3. If your tank is relatively new then I could still growing the necessary good bacteria needed to keep your tank stable. So that there are no parameter swings, which in a nano tank come fast and furious..

4. Any kind of deviations in your parameters can make them moody. Not just your basic ones (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph) but also calcium, alk, and magnesium.

The best advise I can give you for the BTA is do everything in your power to keep the tank stable. Temp swings, parameters moving up and down, even the lights being readjusted can effect them. Especially in a tank the size of yours... The smaller the tank the faster your numbers can go crazy. On a good note the BTA doesn't look bad as stated above. I would use the advice given and just monitor him and your parameters.

Thank you for replying! I have had the tank for 1 and 1/2 months. I added the nem and coral 1 week ago. The live rock I added was from the same fish store that I originally purchased the live rock in the tank prior. According to my local fish store owner it is cycled completely. If it helps: I did take my water in during the entire time weekly to be tested and the parameters stayed constant. I just wasn't testing for SG. I assumed it was stressed from the dramatic drop in SG but I wanted to make sure. I'm not confident enough to read my parameters but I have included a photo of my test strip and hope that it helps. I will look in to auto top off immediately. Thank you.

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

Thank you for replying! I have had the tank for 1 and 1/2 months. I added the nem and coral 1 week ago. The live rock I added was from the same fish store that I originally purchased the live rock in the tank prior. According to my local fish store owner it is cycled completely. If it helps: I did take my water in during the entire time weekly to be tested and the parameters stayed constant. I just wasn't testing for SG. I assumed it was stressed from the dramatic drop in SG but I wanted to make sure. I'm not confident enough to read my parameters but I have included a photo of my test strip and hope that it helps. I will look in to auto top off immediately. Thank you.

I would highly recommend getting you a test kit and start using it my man. Even if you have to get your LFS to show you how. You never know when something is gonna go wrong and your gonna need to check those on the spot. If I can't give you any other advice than that then that's important. You always need to be able to check them. I check mine in my 29 gallon Nano reef weekly and my FOWLR monthly (unless something seems off then I will test more often).

 

[Adam Goldberg]

I would highly recommend getting you a test kit and start using it my man. Even if you have to get your LFS to show you how. You never know when something is gonna go wrong and your gonna need to check those on the spot. If I can't give you any other advice than that then that's important. You always need to be able to check them. I check mine in my 29 gallon Nano reef weekly and my FOWLR monthly (unless something seems off then I will test more often).

Is there a difference between my test strip and a kit? Sorry if this is a really basic question

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

What does the strip check for? In a test kit you will be able to check specifically one thing at a time. Individually.. this give you more control over what you looking at. Instead of one generic test. Like let's say you come home one day and your clown fish is acting funny. Gasping for air, swimming into thglass or whatever. Then you whip out the old test kit and see if there are any ammonia spikes.. or if your PH has dropped really low. There are all kind of scenarios where having the kits will be better for you in the long run. Especially if you wanna keep the BTA happy

 

[DSC reef]

Is there a difference between my test strip and a kit? Sorry if this is a really basic question

Questions are what were here for, no such thing as a stupid or basic question. Test kits are much more reliable. That in turn will help you keep chemistry stable knowing the correct parameters.

 

[Adam Goldberg]

What does the strip check for? In a test kit you will be able to check specifically one thing at a time. Individually.. this give you more control over what you looking at. Instead of one generic test. Like let's say you come home one day and your clown fish is acting funny. Gasping for air, swimming into thglass or whatever. Then you whip out the old test kit and see if there are any ammonia spikes.. or if your PH has dropped really low. There are all kind of scenarios where having the kits will be better for you in the long run. Especially if you wanna keep the BTA happy

Thank you for explaining! My kit tests for KH, PH, NO2, and NO3. So it sounds like I need to get the kit and test for everything. Thank you again for your time!

 

[Adam Goldberg]

Questions are what were here for, no such thing as a stupid or basic question. Test kits are much more reliable. That in turn will help you keep chemistry stable knowing the correct parameters.

Thank you for taking the time to explain!

 

[DSC reef]

I recommend salifert for calcium, mag, alk. I also use Hannah checker for alk. API will be ok for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. Salifert makes a nice nitrate test kit as well.

 

[Reef_Tank_Fan_SC]

I use API for the basic stuff but I use Red Sea for my Mag, Cal, and Alk. I have been thinking about switching to the Hanna Checkers also

 

[GoPitt88]

The more you ask and read, the better. We all were newbies at one point This is a great forum to learn from. Everyone here is nice and encouraging. Try not to get discouraged and if you ever make a mistake, learn from it and move on. You'll be amazed at how much you will learn.

The strip you picture above that shows multiple kinds of tests is fine, IMO, when cycling, but once you have zero ammonia and zero nitrites for a while, and start getting nitrates, then you should probably get an API Master reef test kit that tests for Calcium, Alkalinity, Phosphates, and Nitrates. The more your tank matures, the more stable it will be. After a while, as you read about other, more sophisticated testing options, you may try those as well. Another good resource online for info is BRSTV (Bulk Reef Supply TV). They have videos online about almost every subject.

Happy Reefing!!!!