For flow, using my hot mag pro with carbon filter (did have the micro filter for a bit, but that didn't help) which trickles tithe top. Then have fluval sea 425 gph powerhead. And the hob skimmer creates some water agitTion too.
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As far As rock, I started with 10lbs cured live and 25 lb dry Marco rocks.
First off do you know if the clowns you have are captive bred or wild caught? Wild caught fish do have a tendency to be less hardy...
If they are not eating flake, try some good frozen food like PE Mysis or Hikari Mysis. After rinsing the food, add some Kent Garlic Extreme and feed the fish a few minutes later. The garlic can help spike feeding response in fish. Make sure you see the fish eat before they are bagged up at the LFS. Any good LFS will do this for you to ease concerns. If they won't, then find a different LFS.
When the LFS tests the water for you there is a difference between "fine" and "good". I would recommend getting your own kits and doing all of the testing yourself so you have a better understanding of what is happening in your tank.
With that much live rock, you really don't need the canister filter. If they are not cleaned frequently they can become a detritus trap and add nitrates to the tank. This is more of a concern with reef tanks, but it is worth checking and keeping on top of.
What are your acclimation procedures when you buy the fish? Do you do the drip method or just temp and toss in?
Also do you know the salinity of the water at the pet store? Many stores keep their fish around 1.019 - 1.021. If you were at 1.028 and didn't do a very long drip acclimation, you could have causes osmotic shock in the fish which will damage their internals. It is safe to drop the salinity quickly as in hyposalinity treatments, however when raising the salinity it needs to be done gradually and over time. It is at least worth checking into to see where they are at in their tanks.
I second the question on the cycle as well. How long did it go fishless to allow the biological filtration to become mature?

