Rearranging Red Sea stock plumbing?

leeatmg

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Hi everyone… First post, though I've been lurking for a while. I have learned a lot from reading everyone else's posts, and hope to be able to contribute someday!

I am about to begin a Reefer 350 build, and I am planning to hard plumb everything. One of the comments that has been made repeatedly about the V3 sump is that the layout is inconvenient if you are planning a manifold.

My question is this - I think one thing that would help would be swapping the location of the return pipe (which is on the left in the weir) and the drainpipe which is on the right. This would allow a straighter connection to the return pump with fewer elbows, and still allow the stock ATO to remain in place for use as an ATO or refugium. The main complication is the return output in the box, which could be extended to connect to the relocated return pipe inside the box.

Does anyone see an issue with this idea?

Thanks...excited to get started and begin my own build thread!

---Lee
 
Hi everyone… First post, though I've been lurking for a while. I have learned a lot from reading everyone else's posts, and hope to be able to contribute someday!

I am about to begin a Reefer 350 build, and I am planning to hard plumb everything. One of the comments that has been made repeatedly about the V3 sump is that the layout is inconvenient if you are planning a manifold.

My question is this - I think one thing that would help would be swapping the location of the return pipe (which is on the left in the weir) and the drainpipe which is on the right. This would allow a straighter connection to the return pump with fewer elbows, and still allow the stock ATO to remain in place for use as an ATO or refugium. The main complication is the return output in the box, which could be extended to connect to the relocated return pipe inside the box.

Does anyone see an issue with this idea?

Thanks...excited to get started and begin my own build thread!

---Lee
If you are going to custom plumb the tank underneath then move the upper pipes where you want.
BTW using Red Sea part 42221 will allow you to customize things like you want easier.
To use that part, you unscrew the tube nipple and then you can thread on a 3/4” pipe coupling and go from there. Make sure you use thread tape and sealing paste.

Here is the part I’m referring to. Don’t worry about the description of it you’re not using it for it’s original purpose.
 
Thanks! I plan to use that part, though I have considered having a piece of PVC turned down a bit on a lathe to fit inside the bottom of the stock return pipe and gluing instead of using the adapter. Leaning towards the adapter just for ease of use if nothing else.

My main concern with switching the upper pipes is making sure the drains still work properly and the return still has adequate flow. I can't see any reason either would be an issue so I think I'm going to try it.

Thanks for the reply...getting close to starting but want to have all the ducks in a row.

---Lee
 
Something I forgot to mention.. on my tank the return line is dedicated to a specific location. Meaning the overflow box has been designed to have the return pipe come through a particular place.
If you move things around you will need to rework the top/overflow as well.
 
I have seen some mods done where the connection from the return in the overflow box to the outlet has been redone with larger diameter pipe, which made me think that as long as there is enough headroom in the box to run a pipe from right to left across the top of the two drains and not interfere with the drains, it should work. So that's the plan if I do the switch.

Thanks again..I see you are in Arizona? Whereabouts?

---Lee
 

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