Reasons why zoas stay closed?

[glb]

I know zoas are supposed to be easy to keep, but I’ve never had much luck with them. Right now I have 3 colonies that are closed but don‘t seem to be dying. Water parameters are Alk: 8, Ca: 430, No3: 8, PO4: 0.02, ph: 7.9, temp: 78, salinity: 34. In the past month I had the no3 and po4 zero out, causing what looked like a small dino outbreak, but could have been diatoms. I dosed po4 and no3 and those numbers are now looking good for a softie/LPS tank. Also, about two months ago, I changed all the t-5 bulbs at once after two years (big mistake). This is when the initial problem started. I raised the fixture and decreased the lighting time to about 5 hours/day to help the tank adjust to the higher PAR. I dipped my biggest colony in Revive a few weeks ago. The only thing that came off of them was those little starfish with long red/white legs (I think they’re good cuc’s). I haven’t added any new livestock in months so I don‘t think any unwanted hitchhikers have gotten into the tank. I don’t see any nudibranches or other critters munching on them.
I know I’ve had some issues the past few months. Could these explain why the zoas aren’t happy? What else could be causing them to stay shut? Any help is greatly appreciated!!! Pictures to follow.

 

[WIReefer]

Your parameters all look pretty good to me. What I have noticed is zoas like a dirtier water. But it seems like there has been a lot of changes and swings recently in your tank. I would just give it time and keep everything stable. It wouldn’t hurt to rent a par meter.

 

[Bfragale]

I had the same issue. Turned out my electric blue damsel fish liked to pick in them when I wasn’t looking. Took me months to figure it out. Then months to catch him. Once he was gone zoas look “amazing”

what fish do you have? Your prams look good to me. I’m thinking something maybe bugging them?

 

[glb]

I had the same issue. Turned out my electric blue damsel fish liked to pick in them when I wasn’t looking. Took me months to figure it out. Then months to catch him. Once he was gone zoas look “amazing”

what fish do you have? Your prams look good to me. I’m thinking something maybe bugging them?

I have two clownfish, a Midas blenny, diamond goby, ruby fairy wrasse and a chromis. I’ve had all of them for a while and they seem to leave the corals alone. I agree that something is bothering them. I have hermit crabs that love to crawl on them but I’ve had them for a while. I have vermitid snails on the rocks that I remove on a regular basis. I try to keep the areas around my corals clear of them. If I had dinos, diatoms or cyano, would any of those irritate zoas? Thanks for your help!

 

[Saltyreef]

My zoas started melting randomly after my nitrate went up from undetectable.
I still had .02 phosphate with near undetectable nitrate and my zoas loved it.

Are you dosing any aminos or trace elements?
I like aquavitro fuel.

 

[glb]

My zoas started melting randomly after my nitrate went up from undetectable.
I still had .02 phosphate with near undetectable nitrate and my zoas loved it.

Are you dosing any aminos or trace elements?
I like aquavitro fuel.

I’m only using Reef Roids about once a week right now. Do you think aminos or trace elements would help?

 

[Saltyreef]

I’m only using Reef Roids about once a week right now. Do you think aminos or trace elements would help?

It depends on what your husbandry is like already.
Do you replenish trace elements through scheduled water changes already?
Is reef roids the only food you use?

 

[glb]

It depends on what your husbandry is like already.
Do you replenish trace elements through scheduled water changes already?
Is reef roids the only food you use?

I do daily water changes totaling 5g/week (10%). I have korallen zucht LPS amino acid concentrate but it tends to drive up the nitrates pretty quickly. I was using a small dose. Maybe I could add that back in.

 

[glb]

Ps I use regular Instant Ocean sea salt and dose alk and ca daily.

 

[Saltyreef]

Seems like youre on the right track. Id work on keeping nitrates down and possibly dosing iodine (not lugols)

 

[Bfragale]

Your fish list, husbandry, and parameters seem good to me. I dont see anything glaring out that looks like it could be the issue.

I think if they were covered in algea that would affect them, but if there is just some in the system it shouldn’t, at least in my experience.

I dunno man lol-

 

[glb]

Your fish list, husbandry, and parameters seem good to me. I dont see anything glaring out that looks like it could be the issue.

I think if they were covered in algea that would affect them, but if there is just some in the system it shouldn’t, at least in my experience.

I dunno man lol-

Lol

Your fish list, husbandry, and parameters seem good to me. I dont see anything glaring out that looks like it could be the issue.

I think if they were covered in algea that would affect them, but if there is just some in the system it shouldn’t, at least in my experience.

I dunno man lol-

Lol tell me about it. I think I’ll just hang in there and see if they improve. I work so hard at this and I still haven’t had great success with coral. I’ve had this tank for 3 years and had a nano for about 7 years so I’m not a newbie. It just seems like you get everything just right then any little thing knocks everything out of whack. Is this an unforgiving hobby or what?? Ps I’m a chick, lol

 

[Grossman90]

My zoas looked the best at .22 phos and 15 nitrates. I never dosed anything. Let my tank be and it does great. The moment i tried to reduce phos a little it ticked zoas off. Stability is key. Zoas are a pain though. High end stuff will randomely melt. Low end stuff is always bullet proof which makes people think zoas are easy when it's really only the low to mid end stuff that's easy. If zoas are closed i do furan 2 dip for 12mins. Half packet per cup of water. GL

 

[glb]

My zoas looked the best at .22 phos and 15 nitrates. I never dosed anything. Let me tank be and it does great. The moment i tried to reduce phos a little it ticked zoas off. Stability is key. Zoas are a pain though. High end stuff will randomely melt. Low end stuff is always bullet proof which makes people think zoas are easy when it's really only the low to mid end stuff that's easy. If zoas are closed i do furan 2 dip for 12mins. Half packet per cup of water. GL

Thanks!

 

[Tater_kamik]

I had a damsel that was harassing zoas and hammers, didn't realize it till it was too late. I did notice that most of my zoas did better when my water was dirtier. When it was cleaner the growth rate slowed and most spent more time closed up.

 

[glb]

I had a damsel that was harassing zoas and hammers, didn't realize it till it was too late. I did notice that most of my zoas did better when my water was dirtier. When it was cleaner the growth rate slowed and most spent more time closed up.

Thanks! My nutrients are up and the zoas are starting to reopen again. It’s so true in this hobby that waiting and watching is usually the right way to go rather than making lots of changes to fix a problem.

 

[Adamantium]

Seems like youre on the right track. Id work on keeping nitrates down and possibly dosing iodine (not lugols)

Can I ask why you suggest not dosing lugol's? Isn't it a source of iodine and iodide?

 

[Saltyreef]

Can I ask why you suggest not dosing lugol's? Isn't it a source of iodine and iodide?

Randy does not recommend it. But likely fine.

To be fair, he doesnt really recommend iodine dosing at all as hes seen no benefit from its use lol

 

[NeonRabbit221B]

You can dip them in an iodine/iodide dip for a few minutes. That always helps my zoas bounce back.

 

[Adamantium]

Randy does not recommend it. But likely fine.

So, if I understand correctly, it would react with other elements in the tank and cause issues? I see so many people say they're dosing it successfully.