Rebirth: ReeferEric's 210G Peninsula
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- Thread starter ReeferEric
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Jurg
Valuable Member
This looks awesome! Aquascape is sweet, I really like the shallow look with the tonga pieces branching off. Good thing I didn't go to macna with you guys, I would have went crazy. Can't wait to see this setup.
OP
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Hey Maria! Fixed the Apex so you don't see Apex. lol
Thanks... to you! Rocks worked out great, I still have about half of it left. Some will go in the sump, the rest you can have back!!! Yeah, MACNA was an expensive trip. I still owe @joshporksandwic money. I owe you frags so when your ready just give me a ring.
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Got some more stuff done after the local FMAS Tank Hop today. Saw some nice set ups and got a few ideas.
I managed to wash the new sand so it wouldn't be so murky once it gets put in. Hopefully I have enough sand to put down a 1/4" layer before the tiles go on top. Filled the tank with less then 1/2" of water to make sure the pitch was correct and the shim job was done right. So far so good but once that tank is filled we'll know more about it being leveled.
Other project I got to today was sanding and flame polishing the acrylic sump. The edges were just too sharp for me, easily cut due to the sharpness. I did a quick sand on the edges and then hit it with my torch rig. Not too bad for amateur work as this is the first time I've attempted to polish acrylic using this method. Works pretty good but I should have sanded down the lines from cutting more. No matter, it looks 100x better then before.
Hard to see but the baffles got a quick polish, no sanding done.
Tomorrow I will probably try and finish the drain section of the plumbing & put in the insulation under the sump. Once that is done, filling with tap water and setting up the Vortech MP40QDs. This will run for a few days to make sure no issues come up. Hopefully ZERO leaks! The skimmer will have to wait for Monday when I call them.
-Lights will need to be hung, this will take some processing to come up with something that will work out great or can be improved on later.
-Sump light, either T5 retro kit with LEDs or turn it into a full refugium. Roughly 40"x20" of real estate!
-Install lights for under the stand.
-Route some of the wiring under the tank.
I managed to wash the new sand so it wouldn't be so murky once it gets put in. Hopefully I have enough sand to put down a 1/4" layer before the tiles go on top. Filled the tank with less then 1/2" of water to make sure the pitch was correct and the shim job was done right. So far so good but once that tank is filled we'll know more about it being leveled.
Other project I got to today was sanding and flame polishing the acrylic sump. The edges were just too sharp for me, easily cut due to the sharpness. I did a quick sand on the edges and then hit it with my torch rig. Not too bad for amateur work as this is the first time I've attempted to polish acrylic using this method. Works pretty good but I should have sanded down the lines from cutting more. No matter, it looks 100x better then before.
Hard to see but the baffles got a quick polish, no sanding done.
Tomorrow I will probably try and finish the drain section of the plumbing & put in the insulation under the sump. Once that is done, filling with tap water and setting up the Vortech MP40QDs. This will run for a few days to make sure no issues come up. Hopefully ZERO leaks! The skimmer will have to wait for Monday when I call them.
-Lights will need to be hung, this will take some processing to come up with something that will work out great or can be improved on later.
-Sump light, either T5 retro kit with LEDs or turn it into a full refugium. Roughly 40"x20" of real estate!
-Install lights for under the stand.
-Route some of the wiring under the tank.
OP
OP
Got the drains done today. Started the fill with tap water as well to make sure there were no leaks.
Had a few minor leaks on threaded fittings but more teflon tape fixed that. No glued joints leaked. Had a leak on one of the bulkheads with the overflow system. It seems that the gasket on the flange was not sealing correctly, I tried to tighten more, loosen it, and remove and install again. Nothing worked, finally broke down and installed another set of gaskets on the outside overflow box between the glass and box itself. This got it to stop completely, will be letting the system run for a day before I empty it just to make sure its not leaking.
Sump filled to the top to ensure no leaks or possibility of a blown seem. The refugium area did bow out a little but the mid brace on the stand kept it from going any further. I did add shims between the acrylic and stand to keep it from bow out, this should fix it without having to go with some sort of bracing since it is so long.
The beam animal drain set up is as quiet as can be, only the inside overflow box makes noise from the water rush into it. Siphon break via locline works as well as the check valve, barely any water gets back into the sump via the return.
According to Matt the acrylic builder, "Ghost baffles." It was an idea I had came up with from sump design I had made for my other system. It allows enough space under the baffle for water to go under it, mainly water with no bubbles. This also creates flow on the bottom of the chamber so detritus does not settle. Also, this increases water volume in each chamber which to me is important in the return section. All too often people make the return too small, this chamber drops quickly and the ATO kicks on more frequently.
Running 100% with no leaks. I'll try and upload a few videos on YouTube and post here.
Had a few minor leaks on threaded fittings but more teflon tape fixed that. No glued joints leaked. Had a leak on one of the bulkheads with the overflow system. It seems that the gasket on the flange was not sealing correctly, I tried to tighten more, loosen it, and remove and install again. Nothing worked, finally broke down and installed another set of gaskets on the outside overflow box between the glass and box itself. This got it to stop completely, will be letting the system run for a day before I empty it just to make sure its not leaking.
Sump filled to the top to ensure no leaks or possibility of a blown seem. The refugium area did bow out a little but the mid brace on the stand kept it from going any further. I did add shims between the acrylic and stand to keep it from bow out, this should fix it without having to go with some sort of bracing since it is so long.
The beam animal drain set up is as quiet as can be, only the inside overflow box makes noise from the water rush into it. Siphon break via locline works as well as the check valve, barely any water gets back into the sump via the return.
According to Matt the acrylic builder, "Ghost baffles." It was an idea I had came up with from sump design I had made for my other system. It allows enough space under the baffle for water to go under it, mainly water with no bubbles. This also creates flow on the bottom of the chamber so detritus does not settle. Also, this increases water volume in each chamber which to me is important in the return section. All too often people make the return too small, this chamber drops quickly and the ATO kicks on more frequently.
Running 100% with no leaks. I'll try and upload a few videos on YouTube and post here.
OP
OP
Made some videos! Sketchy but I know I can do better if I tried, maybe someday I will take out the DSLR cameras.
Trying to fill it up with a full sump, had to do this a few times.
Bean Animal set up is quiet and no bubbles, love this set up! The noise in the back ground is from the other tanks, they need to be dialed in. I went with the Herbie method on them.
Trying to fill it up with a full sump, had to do this a few times.
Bean Animal set up is quiet and no bubbles, love this set up! The noise in the back ground is from the other tanks, they need to be dialed in. I went with the Herbie method on them.
OP
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Didn't get much done today but something is better then nothing. Fell asleep after getting home from work and then work after.
Anyways, I made a bracket for the DCT-15000 pump as well as the Vortech pumps. As of right now I will be going with 2 MP40QDs but might opted for 4 if the flow pattern doesn't look right. Pictures tomorrow.
Anyways, I made a bracket for the DCT-15000 pump as well as the Vortech pumps. As of right now I will be going with 2 MP40QDs but might opted for 4 if the flow pattern doesn't look right. Pictures tomorrow.
OP
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Thanks!
I'm just like everyone, but I do enjoy building and get something out of it.Man you're great
We'll see, gotta make sure it can handle SPS before I go all out on this system.
No update tonight, took the girlfriend out for pre-birthday dinner. I have to brainstorm and think of some ways to hang the light and if need be get them to raise and lower mechanically.
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Skimmer came in, pictures later tonight. Working on figuring out how to hang these lights over the weekend. Another trip to Home Depot.
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Good news, bad news. Well it's more like it sucks.
The skimmer looks great but it won't fit under the stand without pulling the sump out. One of the first mistakes I've made so far. I should have known better but it will be ok. The only bad thing is that when the body needs to be cleaned, I will have to shift the sump and then get the skimmer out. Once in a blue moon, my BK Mini 180 finally got a cleaning last week but that was due to algae growth on the inside body.
Here are a few pictures of it:
This thing is massive. Checked for clearance and on the sump/under the stand it has a little over 1" of play room. Just enough to pull the skimmer cup out and clean it. I'll definitely need a skimmer waste collector to empty before removing the cup.
Pump will be easy to clean since it just disconnects from the silicone tube holding it to the body.
The skimmer looks great but it won't fit under the stand without pulling the sump out. One of the first mistakes I've made so far. I should have known better but it will be ok. The only bad thing is that when the body needs to be cleaned, I will have to shift the sump and then get the skimmer out. Once in a blue moon, my BK Mini 180 finally got a cleaning last week but that was due to algae growth on the inside body.
Here are a few pictures of it:
This thing is massive. Checked for clearance and on the sump/under the stand it has a little over 1" of play room. Just enough to pull the skimmer cup out and clean it. I'll definitely need a skimmer waste collector to empty before removing the cup.
Pump will be easy to clean since it just disconnects from the silicone tube holding it to the body.
OP
OP
As for the hanging of the lights, I'm still thinking of something. I want an electric winch type but kind of don't care for it due to the fact that I have to run power wires to the unit. However, I did start on it tonight. I'll be using PVC board to attach the hanging kit on the ceiling. Reason being is because the board is much stronger then sheetrock and with multiple mounting points, this will help distribute the weight so one hole will not take all the weight.
Mounting to the ceiling will be on the 4 corners. Center will be the wire that goes down to the light fixture. I need to figure the total weight of the fixture before I buy more hardware. Hard to see but on the board I've marked the center already.
Setting up the laser to pin point with accuracy where the mounting points on the ceiling will be. My OCD with straight lines is very apparent. Did a quick sharpie on the ceiling according to the laser and they all seem to be on point. All corners are squared, measurements are dead on. I'm extremely happy with the results. In the next few days I will be mounting the panels and then the lights. Need to order new bulbs soon as well.
Mounting to the ceiling will be on the 4 corners. Center will be the wire that goes down to the light fixture. I need to figure the total weight of the fixture before I buy more hardware. Hard to see but on the board I've marked the center already.
Setting up the laser to pin point with accuracy where the mounting points on the ceiling will be. My OCD with straight lines is very apparent. Did a quick sharpie on the ceiling according to the laser and they all seem to be on point. All corners are squared, measurements are dead on. I'm extremely happy with the results. In the next few days I will be mounting the panels and then the lights. Need to order new bulbs soon as well.
gettaReef
Valuable Member
Nice laser level....I need to get one. Just hung a fixture over my tank last week and had to pull out the old plumb bob....ugghh. worked like a charm but not an easy task when needing to hang 15+ feet. After a while I had to swallow my pride and get the wife to lend a steady hand
OP
OP
LOL I'm the same way. Rather do as much myself before asking for help. Help comes and everything gets rushed or they want to go do something.
I have to go back to Lowes or Home Depot to get some type of pulley system. Only thing I don't like is it won't be hung on studs.
OP
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Another trip to Lowes, found some hardware on sale and took advantage. The hanging kit will be an overkill by a long shot.
This incorporates pulleys in case I want to install some sort of motorized system later on to lower and raise the unit. More then likely this will be done after I'm bored and there is nothing else to change. lol
The pulley adapter pictured below is the key to this set up. The mount will go on a piece of aluminum and then on the white PVC board. OR maybe I can weld on longer threads so they can pass through the PVC board and then I can secure it from the backside.
Assembly that will be connected to the light fixture. Weighed in at 40lbs with the LED bars, drivers, and so on. Each pulley can handle 25lbs so mathematically, it will be ok. Borderline risky but fine to go with. Suspension will be approximately 4-5ft off the water line. More details once I get working on it. Tomorrow I'll be trying to stuff the skimmer in the sump and more then likely empty the tank to start with the saltwater fill.
This incorporates pulleys in case I want to install some sort of motorized system later on to lower and raise the unit. More then likely this will be done after I'm bored and there is nothing else to change. lol
The pulley adapter pictured below is the key to this set up. The mount will go on a piece of aluminum and then on the white PVC board. OR maybe I can weld on longer threads so they can pass through the PVC board and then I can secure it from the backside.
Assembly that will be connected to the light fixture. Weighed in at 40lbs with the LED bars, drivers, and so on. Each pulley can handle 25lbs so mathematically, it will be ok. Borderline risky but fine to go with. Suspension will be approximately 4-5ft off the water line. More details once I get working on it. Tomorrow I'll be trying to stuff the skimmer in the sump and more then likely empty the tank to start with the saltwater fill.
OP
OP
That's why I have you... to fix them for me. LOL
