Received ICP-MS results back....scary

[FreshSaltyGuy]

Hi All,

I now I have insite to some issues I've been seeing. Based off this test is this telling me the RoDI resin need to be replaced or the filters themselves? I can't see how the filter because I have been using them for maybe 1 year and it's a 300 gpd iSpring RCB3P to system and I could have sworn it should last longer using it to fill my 220 gal with 75 gallon sump and my smaller 35 gallon tank and using it as ATO water. iSpring says they should be good for up to 30,000 gallons?? How long do your filters last or how long should I expect on average? I have to be honest I've been a little lazy and haven't hooked up TDS meter built will now.
Also, I have a good iSpring whole house filtration system and one of the filters on it is for heavy metals. So I'm really confused how going through that and then again through my RoDI I have such high #'s.
So I guess time to change filters and resin right?
I already ordered CupriSorb and a few other things, but need to order filters before doing water change so doing that now.
Thanks!

 

[SoFlo Reef]

Going to need more details. What water are you testing? Is that freshly filtered water after it has gone through all stages of the unit? Also, are sure there is DI resin in that filter? Looking it up, that appears to be just a reverse osmosis unit - not RODI. Have you ever replaced the filters in those canisters? The reverse osmosis membrane (in the white canisters on the back side) should last 2-3 years, but the pre filters in the blue canisters typically need to be changed every 6 months. If you have never changed any of them you likely need to change at least the first three stages, and possibly the RO membrane as well.

 

[FreshSaltyGuy]

The water test is from Oceamo from Reef Moonshiners. It is the the RoDI water directly from the filter spout. I have the DI resin filter off to the side out of the pic. I changed that about 8 months ago, but again it seems like I'm only gone through a few thousand gallons. I have never replaced the filters in the blue canisters. I'm thinking maybe I should, I also have the new DI resins that I will replace the old one with and then I guess we will see from there. Changing those 4 things should get rid of Zinc & Silicone right? Wouldn't the RO Membranes catch the zinc and silicone too? There is 3 of them in line on the back side? Should I replace them they are about 1 year old, but it says they last 2-3 years?

 

[Devisissy]

Chuck it all in the bin and get a Spectrapure and never look back.

 

[FreshSaltyGuy]

Chuck it all in the bin and get a Spectrapure and never look back.

Why would I do that when all I have to do is replace filters lol and the iSpring I have is a commercial version that outperforms anything with good filters.

 

[Js.Aqua.Project]

Out of curiosity, in your photo all I see is sediment and resin filters, where is the RO membrane?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

The 30,000 gallon claim does NOT EVER relate to DI resins.

Can you describe what filters are present, what water you are testing and what ALL of the values are?

Are you monitoring TDS? That is the only easy to tell when the DI depletes.

This has more:

Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Systems to Purify Tap Water for Reef Aquaria by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

 

[Epic Aquaculture]

Why would I do that when all I have to do is replace filters lol and the iSpring I have is a commercial version that outperforms anything with good filters.

The TDS monitor is the key. RODI membranes won't remove the silicates. You can use a silicate specific cartridge to do that such as the Spectrapure Silica Buster. Your DI resin should be changed when the TDS monitor shows whatever number you determine to be your target. I personally change it when TDS hits 10, but some do it as soon as it hits 1. It's really up to you. I change out my membranes every January. You can go longer than that but I wouldn't go more than 2 years. The usage of these items is dependent on how bad your water is. Here in the Phoenix area our water has very high TDS (800+ where I am located) so I go through my resin and membranes faster than those in lower TDS areas.

 

[Devisissy]

The TDS monitor is the key. RODI membranes won't remove the silicates. You can use a silicate specific cartridge to do that such as the Spectrapure Silica Buster. Your DI resin should be changed when the TDS monitor shows whatever number you determine to be your target. I personally change it when TDS hits 10, but some do it as soon as it hits 1. It's really up to you. I change out my membranes every January. You can go longer than that but I wouldn't go more than 2 years. The usage of these items is dependent on how bad your water is. Here in the Phoenix area our water has very high TDS (800+ where I am located) so I go through my resin and membranes faster than those in lower TDS areas.

Your water down there is liquid concrete. I was amazed and annoyed.

 

[Devisissy]

Why would I do that when all I have to do is replace filters lol and the iSpring I have is a commercial version that outperforms anything with good filters.

Because it's designed for drinking water. Spectrapure is reef specific directly out of the box. Is it more expensive yes, but will it last you forever yes. You would have had not only auto flush, but inline TDS and full product support both through email and on this forum as the owner lives in Arizona. Which literally has the hardest water known to man, perfect for testing product.

 

[Pod_01]

Spectrapure is reef specific directly out of the box.

Out of curiosity, what makes it reef specific?

Is it the DI portion? The RO portion does not change regardless of the application.

 

[jda]

There are membranes that do a pretty good job with silicates. AXEON come to mind. They are worth a look even if you have to outside of BRS and other reef-related companies.

 

[Troylee]

The TDS monitor is the key. RODI membranes won't remove the silicates. You can use a silicate specific cartridge to do that such as the Spectrapure Silica Buster. Your DI resin should be changed when the TDS monitor shows whatever number you determine to be your target. I personally change it when TDS hits 10, but some do it as soon as it hits 1. It's really up to you. I change out my membranes every January. You can go longer than that but I wouldn't go more than 2 years. The usage of these items is dependent on how bad your water is. Here in the Phoenix area our water has very high TDS (800+ where I am located) so I go through my resin and membranes faster than those in lower TDS areas.

Wow! I thought Vegas was bad at 575 lol..

 

[Devisissy]

Out of curiosity, what makes it reef specific?

Is it the DI portion? The RO portion does not change regardless of the application.

Your right. But one company sets up the units for mainly house use, and one is geared directly to reef. So the extras and abilities are different. Having to add on TDS inline and back flushing, membranes, all that gets to be spendy. Why not just buy a unit that has everything a reefer would need? Most water drinking systems come with filters for remineralization. Sure that is easy enough to change, but you wouldn't need to if you bought one for reef. Or like this unit...no ro membrane. So customer has to add one, when he could have just I dunno bought one designed for reef. It looks like it came with a small reservoir, great for morning coffee, but small and inefficient for reef keeping.

 

[SoFlo Reef]

The system you have is fine for your needs, but yes the prefilters more than likely need to be changed if you have never done it. They should really be changed out every 6 months on a schedule. You most likely have a sediment filter then dual carbon blocks. Look for replacements in the 0.5-1 micron range, absolute rated if you can find them. If your water has high chloramines consider a chloramine specific carbon block for the third stage.

You want to test the water coming from the RO membrane, before it enters the DI stage. This will give you insight as to the integrity of the membranes. If the TDS is higher than 10 or so (ideally below 5) your membranes likely will need to be replaced as well. The prefilters protect the membranes, so if they are not changed out regularly, you can prematurely foul the membranes and they won’t last close to the 2-3 years you can expect with proper maintenance.

You can buy a cheap, handheld TDS meter to do this rather than an inline one. They cost <$20.