Red sand

[g_acosta_02]

Can anyone tell me what is this on my sand? Have tried everything and nothing seems to work. From lights out to barely feeding to chemiclean , vibrant even siphoning the sand blowing the sand and it keeps coming back.
So I ask myself does the sand in the aquarium have to get replaced? Don’t know what to do any more

 

[MelancholyBlenny]

Looks like Cyano, any white light pictures?

 

[Spare time]

Like the above stated, white light pics would help. Do you use RODI water? Have you swapped out the filters recently or know the tds? What are the nitrate and phosphate levels? Have you tried adding a mix of copepods?

 

[g_acosta_02]

Looks like Cyano, any white light pictures?

White light pic are going to have to wait until tomorrow just left for work

 

[dedragon]

cyano likely due to low flow on the sandbed. Do you remember what sand you used? smaller grain sizes can get blown around very easily given the flow we use in reef tanks

 

[g_acosta_02]

Like the above stated, white light pics would help. Do you use RODI water? Have you swapped out the filters recently or know the tds? What are the nitrate and phosphate levels? Have you tried adding a mix of copepods?

Yes I use rodi water so tds is 0 nitrate 0 phosphate 0.25 and negative on the copepods but was think about it

 

[g_acosta_02]

cyano likely due to low flow on the sandbed. Do you remember what sand you used? smaller grain sizes can get blown around very easily given the flow we use in reef tanks

For flow I run 2 hugger hg 951 wave makers. Can’t remember what sand I used the tank has been running for 4 years

 

[Spare time]

I would consider possibly raising the nitrates. There are some cyano bacteria that can thrive in the absence of available nitrogen because they can take it from the atmosphere. Might be something to consider if it is a type of cyano.

 

[Spare time]

cyano likely due to low flow on the sandbed. Do you remember what sand you used? smaller grain sizes can get blown around very easily given the flow we use in reef tanks

I have had cyano growing on the tips of a partially dead sps coral in very high flow lol

 

[g_acosta_02]

White light pic are going to have to wait until tomorrow just left for work

Yes I use rodi water so tds is 0 nitrate 0 phosphate 0.25 and negative on the copepods but was think about it

Here is white light pic

 

[Spare time]

What test kits do you use? If it is API, then you need a better phosphate test kit. Their nitrate one is fine.

 

[Double monti 61]

Looks like coralline growing on the glass that is good try to remove the other algae during water changes and add some invertebrates to stir the substrate.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Can anyone tell me what is this on my sand? Have tried everything and nothing seems to work. From lights out to barely feeding to chemiclean , vibrant even siphoning the sand blowing the sand and it keeps coming back.
So I ask myself does the sand in the aquarium have to get replaced? Don’t know what to do any more

This is indeed cyano. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[g_acosta_02]

What test kits do you use? If it is API, then you need a better phosphate test kit. Their nitrate one is fine.

I use API

 

[g_acosta_02]

This is indeed cyano. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Will the hydrogen peroxide harm the corals? I have tried everything you said the snails the hermit crabs expect the peroxide

 

[vetteguy53081]

Will the hydrogen peroxide harm the corals? I have tried everything you said the snails the hermit crabs expect the peroxide

Not at all - Mainly water- It serves as an oxidizer

 

[g_acosta_02]

Not at all - Mainly water- It serves as an oxidizer

Ok so do I have to remove the carbon or turn off the skimmer and ur light?

 

[dedragon]

I have had cyano growing on the tips of a partially dead sps coral in very high flow lol

not to say it cant nutrients are obviously going to be one of the main factors, I just suspect the low flow given how small grain size looked in the photo and it allows cyano to accumulate more

I use API

time to upgrade. Red sea and salifert are good low cost options, hanna is great ime for low level testing of nitrate and phosphate