Red Sea Reefer 170 Manifold Help

[PugsAndFish]

I'm building a manifold for my Red Sea Reefer 170. The manifold will be used to 1) input and control flow into the ATO which will be turned into a refugium 2) possibly power a reactor for carbon/gfo.

With space limited due to the small footprint of the tank, I did my best to use space efficiently while making sure the weight of the plumbing is supported. Which of the following options works best in your opinion or should I go about this an entirely different way?


A. I am using only 1 valve for the ATO fuge. I'd run a reactor on it's own pump. I would hard plumb all the way straight down. Benefit is more space in stand but I may need to run a second pump for the reactor. This is the most simple option .

B. Both valves going across. Return pump soft plumbed. Back valve is accessible even though picture makes it seem like it isn't. Only concern is the weight of plumbing is not supported.

C. Probably my favorite option along with option A. I would be able to run a reactor off my return pump. I can also support the weight of the PVC with clamps up top unlike options B and D. The only possible negatives are 1) The extra 90s which I'm not sure if that even matters 2) The barb for the hose from the return pump to hard plumb is a little farther but I don't know if that matters either.

D. This is like option B but plumbing is going front to back rather than side to side. Same concern - not sure if weight of plumbing will be an issue.

 

[jsker]

Did you get your answer?

#reefsquad

 

[Dr. Reef Verified Sponsor]

whatever you do dont plumb manifold facing down. I have same setup of manifold facing down and over time hard deposits and buildup from tank starts to clog the facing down extensions and time to time i have to open the threaded pieces and clean them. Its natural for deposits to settle facing down due to gravity and no water pressure. My suggestion facing up so debris can continue to flow down the pipe.

 

[Crabs McJones]

I voted C. You'll lose a little flow with the 90's but that can be solved by getting a higher flow reform pump

 

[PugsAndFish]

whatever you do dont plumb manifold facing down. I have same setup of manifold facing down and over time hard deposits and buildup from tank starts to clog the facing down extensions and time to time i have to open the threaded pieces and clean them. Its natural for deposits to settle facing down due to gravity and no water pressure. My suggestion facing up so debris can continue to flow down the pipe.

What about just facing horizontally like in B?

 

[Dr. Reef Verified Sponsor]

B will work

 

[rkpetersen]

I'd use A, and put the reactor on its own pump. With all those bends and Ts (especially with C) you'll have to upgrade your pump considerably to achieve the same flow. (Each 90 degree elbow adds 1 foot of head pressure.)

 

[PugsAndFish]

I'd use A, and put the reactor on its own pump. With all those bends and Ts (especially with C) you'll have to upgrade your pump considerably to achieve the same flow. (Each 90 degree elbow adds 1 foot of head pressure.)

I oversized my return just in case but I do like option A more and more due to the space saving. Is there a way to stabilize and support PVC that is all vertical like A? I'm concerned about weight of the plumbing on the bulkhead.

 

[FortLivingRoom]

I oversized my return just in case but I do like option A more and more due to the space saving. Is there a way to stabilize and support PVC that is all vertical like A? I'm concerned about weight of the plumbing on the bulkhead.

I’m researching manifolds for my 170 and wondering what you went with?

 

[Leon Gorani]

I'm building a manifold for my Red Sea Reefer 170. The manifold will be used to 1) input and control flow into the ATO which will be turned into a refugium 2) possibly power a reactor for carbon/gfo.

With space limited due to the small footprint of the tank, I did my best to use space efficiently while making sure the weight of the plumbing is supported. Which of the following options works best in your opinion or should I go about this an entirely different way?


A. I am using only 1 valve for the ATO fuge. I'd run a reactor on it's own pump. I would hard plumb all the way straight down. Benefit is more space in stand but I may need to run a second pump for the reactor. This is the most simple option .

B. Both valves going across. Return pump soft plumbed. Back valve is accessible even though picture makes it seem like it isn't. Only concern is the weight of plumbing is not supported.

C. Probably my favorite option along with option A. I would be able to run a reactor off my return pump. I can also support the weight of the PVC with clamps up top unlike options B and D. The only possible negatives are 1) The extra 90s which I'm not sure if that even matters 2) The barb for the hose from the return pump to hard plumb is a little farther but I don't know if that matters either.

D. This is like option B but plumbing is going front to back rather than side to side. Same concern - not sure if weight of plumbing will be an issue.

Hey I am looking to do the same type of manifold as you have shown here, I am looking for parts and wanted to ask where you bought your parts. If possible could you send links or let me know the names of the piping and fittings you used? Also what parts did you use to make the connection at the overflow box? I would really appreciate it, thanks!

 

[PugsAndFish]

Hey I am looking to do the same type of manifold as you have shown here, I am looking for parts and wanted to ask where you bought your parts. If possible could you send links or let me know the names of the piping and fittings you used? Also what parts did you use to make the connection at the overflow box? I would really appreciate it, thanks!

I bought the colored PVC from Bulk Reef Supply. I think all of the fittings were from BRS as well.

You can save a few bucks by shopping online or at the hardware store but I found that BRS had nicer looking fittings/plumbing (although functionally they are the same as any PVC). I unfortunately don't remember the sizes. I don't have the tank anymore so I can't recall. Here is the BRS - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/pumps-plumbing/plumbing.html

For the fitting that I put on the bulkhead to convert the Red Sea fitting to standard PVC, I THINK I used this - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/schedule-80-male-pipe-adapter.html. Not 100% sure. I followed this guy's video so it should help -

 

[Leon Gorani]

I bought the colored PVC from Bulk Reef Supply. I think all of the fittings were from BRS as well.

You can save a few bucks by shopping online or at the hardware store but I found that BRS had nicer looking fittings/plumbing (although functionally they are the same as any PVC). I unfortunately don't remember the sizes. I don't have the tank anymore so I can't recall. Here is the BRS - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/pumps-plumbing/plumbing.html

For the fitting that I put on the bulkhead to convert the Red Sea fitting to standard PVC, I THINK I used this - https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/schedule-80-male-pipe-adapter.html. Not 100% sure. I followed this guy's video so it should help -

Hey so I just got my pieces in and I have been working on my hard plumbing, the only thing I’m worried about is how the adapter has a little bit is space on one side, I think it’s due to how the threads line up. But do you guys think this is okay to leave as is? I’m attaching some photos. On my drain pipe it looks like there is more of an angle at the spot where it is connected to the Red Sea pipe. The threads do thread in normally but it looks like it is just angled, not sure why, I will buy new pieces from BRS and see if it is better.
Thanks

 

[PugsAndFish]

Hey so I just got my pieces in and I have been working on my hard plumbing, the only thing I’m worried about is how the adapter has a little bit is space on one side, I think it’s due to how the threads line up. But do you guys think this is okay to leave as is? I’m attaching some photos. On my drain pipe it looks like there is more of an angle at the spot where it is connected to the Red Sea pipe. The threads do thread in normally but it looks like it is just angled, not sure why, I will buy new pieces from BRS and see if it is better.
Thanks

Hmmm. I'm not sure. Did you try rescrewing it to see it lines up? I'm not a plumbing expert by any means, so hopefully someoone else can give some input

 

[FortLivingRoom]

Hey so I just got my pieces in and I have been working on my hard plumbing, the only thing I’m worried about is how the adapter has a little bit is space on one side, I think it’s due to how the threads line up. But do you guys think this is okay to leave as is? I’m attaching some photos. On my drain pipe it looks like there is more of an angle at the spot where it is connected to the Red Sea pipe. The threads do thread in normally but it looks like it is just angled, not sure why, I will buy new pieces from BRS and see if it is better.
Thanks

You definitely will want to remove that ball valve and replace with a gate valve. It won’t allow you to fine tune the drain properly. Mine had the gaps like that too. The BSP thread has a different angle than NPT threads so it doesn’t fit quite right just make sure to use a few wraps of Teflon tape. My still leaked and I got so frustrated I actually superglued it lol. But I don’t think most people have to do that if you use the right amount of wraps of Teflon. I tried using the real thick Teflon with only two wraps and I think that was my problem.

 

[Leon Gorani]

You definitely will want to remove that ball valve and replace with a gate valve. It won’t allow you to fine tune the drain properly. Mine had the gaps like that too. The BSP thread has a different angle than NPT threads so it doesn’t fit quite right just make sure to use a few wraps of Teflon tape. My still leaked and I got so frustrated I actually superglued it lol. But I don’t think most people have to do that if you use the right amount of wraps of Teflon. I tried using the real thick Teflon with only two wraps and I think that was my problem.

a gate valve instead on the drain? I already glued that all besides the very top piece lol, so should I redo it?
I have to order a gate valve and more pieces then. okay thanks for that info, I got help on another forum with someone who did the same thing as me and they said to use plenty of teflon tape. I got the thick gray kind.

 

[FortLivingRoom]

a gate valve instead on the drain? I already glued that all besides the very top piece lol, so should I redo it?
I have to order a gate valve and more pieces then. okay thanks for that info, I got help on another forum with someone who did the same thing as me and they said to use plenty of teflon tape. I got the thick gray kind.

If it’s not leaking you’re good. I suppose if you’re able to tweak it right for your overflow it’s ok, but gate valves are better for fine tuning.

 

[Leon Gorani]

If it’s not leaking you’re good. I suppose if you’re able to tweak it right for your overflow it’s ok, but gate valves are better for fine tuning.

okay haha I might just redo it all, I want to make it easier to adjust. crazy question, but would it be possible to glue together that gray thread connection that is angled? not sure if anyone has done that. using the same pic glue as the other plumbing? not sure what material the black Red Sea part is in the thread so idk if that is a good idea

 

[Leon Gorani]

If it’s not leaking you’re good. I suppose if you’re able to tweak it right for your overflow it’s ok, but gate valves are better for fine tuning.

also I am creating a return manifold. should I use gate valves or ball valves for each reactor connection? I think I have 2 ball valves, I ruined 2 more lol so i'm buying more. I wasted so much money hahahaha thanks for the help I really appreciate it

 

[FortLivingRoom]

okay haha I might just redo it all, I want to make it easier to adjust. crazy question, but would it be possible to glue together that gray thread connection that is angled? not sure if anyone has done that. using the same pic glue as the other plumbing? not sure what material the black Red Sea part is in the thread so idk if that is a good idea

Idk I don’t think you should glue the threaded piece but I’m no plumber.

 

[FortLivingRoom]

also I am creating a return manifold. should I use gate valves or ball valves for each reactor connection? I think I have 2 ball valves, I ruined 2 more lol so i'm buying more. I wasted so much money hahahaha thanks for the help I really appreciate it

Yes ball valves for accessories, but may want to use gate valve for UV so you can get flow just right. Here is the manifold I built for my 170, but this was my first tank. It was a new replacement tank because the old tank failed. I used old plumbing with new orings but I had leaks where Red Sea pipes meet the bulkhead so I abandoned the manifold, just too much for a beginner like me, I still have it in case I decide to try again.