Red slime/hair algae

[Zachvet]

How do you reign in red slime and hair algae from a previous bloom? I haven taken all the steps now to prevent it but I still have exsisting slime and hair. The tank is 75 gallons and I do about 10-15% weekly water changes. pH around 8-8.2. Nitrites/nitrates/ammonia always test 0.
Calcium 420-450. Mag 1350-1400. Alk 10-11.

Over the past 6 months I have:
Installed a skimmer
Started using 100% RO/DI water
Reduced LED light time to 10 hours a day (I’m concerned about reducing further being I have SPS/LPS in the tank - thoughts?)

I don’t have a sump/refugium because the tanks stand doesn’t have an open bottom for me to build one. I’ve considered buying a HOB refugium to grow beneficial macro algae but they are spendy and I’ve already sunk several hundred dollars into trying to control this.

I hate using chemicals but I wonder if that’s the next step?

 

[Zachvet]

My clean up crew is also slowly being picked off by someone in my tank though I don’t for sure know who. I have a very aggressive dottyback, a tomini tang, and 2 clowns. I also have a decent sized tiger pistol (dotty back killed its goby) My LFS thinks it may be the clowns. That said, I bought a royal urchin this week and he’s settled in and started to chow down. Maybe he will help with time?

 

[flchamp89]

Some pictures would help. Your params may be due to the algae. I think with most algae it's the little things. I always increase my maintenance. Manually attacking it is generally a plus. Diligence and stability is what comes to mind.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Sounds like youre describing cyano. Pictures needed as it could be dino. depending on water quality which is supporting either bacteria, that could be taking down your CUC.
Your numbers seem good, but maybe a second opinion with water test at a trusted LFS to compare readings?

 

[Auquanut]

Sounds like youre describing cyano. Pictures needed as it could be dino. depending on water quality which is supporting either bacteria, that could be taking down your CUC.
Your numbers seem good, but maybe a second opinion with water test at a trusted LFS to compare readings?

Totally agree. Definitely need pictures. Also, how long ago did you start using RO/DI water? Were you using tap water before that?

 

[Subsea]

How do you reign in red slime and hair algae from a previous bloom? I haven taken all the steps now to prevent it but I still have exsisting slime and hair. The tank is 75 gallons and I do about 10-15% weekly water changes. pH around 8-8.2. Nitrites/nitrates/ammonia always test 0.
Calcium 420-450. Mag 1350-1400. Alk 10-11.

Over the past 6 months I have:
Installed a skimmer
Started using 100% RO/DI water
Reduced LED light time to 10 hours a day (I’m concerned about reducing further being I have SPS/LPS in the tank - thoughts?)

I don’t have a sump/refugium because the tanks stand doesn’t have an open bottom for me to build one. I’ve considered buying a HOB refugium to grow beneficial macro algae but they are spendy and I’ve already sunk several hundred dollars into trying to control this.

I hate using chemicals but I wonder if that’s the next step?

In my experiences, zero nitrate is not a good thing. It eliminates desirable competition & encourages nuisance algae and bacterial slims like Cynobacteria.

 

[Zachvet]

Sorry, it’s for sure cyano bacteria and hair algae I’m not so worried about identifying them. Cyano in pockets on the rock and hair algae on the back of the tank. It’s not nearly as bad as some infestations are but it’s still bothersome - especially the cyano when it gets on my birdsnest Frag. I’ve got a couple pics from 2 weeks ago but can get some of today when the lights are fully up and running.

RO/DI started about 3 months ago. Tap water before. I’ve been removing a good chunk of it during every waterchange and it does appear to be getting better.

 

[RomoFL]

That looks exactly like my 20g.. going through the same thing. Watching this thread.

 

[Indytraveler83]

I’m going through the same battle too, watching to see what comes of this.

I’m trying to shift my lights more toward blues and very little white, I think I remember reading that the coral benefits from the blues but the nuisance algae doesn’t as much. I’ll let you know if it helps me at all.

 

[Zachvet]

I’m going through the same battle too, watching to see what comes of this.

I’m trying to shift my lights more toward blues and very little white, I think I remember reading that the coral benefits from the blues but the nuisance algae doesn’t as much. I’ll let you know if it helps me at all.

I was thinking this too. I Only have my white light on for 5 hrs/ day and that’s mostly for my viewing pleasure. Maybe I ought to reduce that instead of reducing the blue?

 

[Subsea]

“I don’t have a sump/refugium because the tanks stand doesn’t have an open bottom for me to build one. I’ve considered buying a HOB refugium to grow beneficial macro algae but they are spendy and I’ve already sunk several hundred dollars into trying to control this.”


@Zachvet

I have a standard HOB refugium which I use as a pod refugium to feed mature tank recycled nutrients. However, the Aquaclear 110 filter at 400GPH with Mars 300W grow light with a total cost < $150 may be a viable solution. It is a very powerful algae filter as well as pod refugium.

AquaClear Experiment in Mariculture

I like algae filtration. I used it in reef tanks since day 1, some 48 years ago. After slowing down from oilfield days as a subsea engineer, I spent some time working at municipal waste water treatment plant using activated sludge to achieve complete treatment of humane waste. This...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Zachvet]

“I don’t have a sump/refugium because the tanks stand doesn’t have an open bottom for me to build one. I’ve considered buying a HOB refugium to grow beneficial macro algae but they are spendy and I’ve already sunk several hundred dollars into trying to control this.”


@Zachvet

I have a standard HOB refugium which I use as a pod refugium to feed mature tank recycled nutrients. However, the Aquaclear 110 filter at 400GPH with Mars 300W grow light with a total cost < $150 may be a viable solution. It is a very powerful algae filter as well as pod refugium.

AquaClear Experiment in Mariculture

I like algae filtration. I used it in reef tanks since day 1, some 48 years ago. After slowing down from oilfield days as a subsea engineer, I spent some time working at municipal waste water treatment plant using activated sludge to achieve complete treatment of humane waste. This...

www.reef2reef.com

Ok that’s good to know. I’d really love a leopard wrasse so I’d love a refugium to keep pods. Currently I’m also eying a 120g upgrade so if I decide to do that I’d be able to build a refugium below the tank. IF I do that it would be a few months before fully transitioning to the new set up and I’d skip a HOB refugium for the current set up.

Maybe my best bet is to upgrade to 120, build a nice refugium and in the meantime up my maintenance to w/c 2x weekly while physically removing as much as possible.

 

[Indytraveler83]

I was thinking this too. I Only have my white light on for 5 hrs/ day and that’s mostly for my viewing pleasure. Maybe I ought to reduce that instead of reducing the blue?

I’m by no means an expert- but I reduced my whites to 5 hrs at 5%, leaving my blues exactly where they were.

For me anyways, it’s a bit difficult as my coral is thriving, even the typically temperamental goniopora, so I don’t want to change too much.

I’m also reducing feeding and have a sizable CuC on order from reefcleaners.

 

[dwest]

Sorry, it’s for sure cyano bacteria and hair algae I’m not so worried about identifying them. Cyano in pockets on the rock and hair algae on the back of the tank. It’s not nearly as bad as some infestations are but it’s still bothersome - especially the cyano when it gets on my birdsnest Frag. I’ve got a couple pics from 2 weeks ago but can get some of today when the lights are fully up and running.

RO/DI started about 3 months ago. Tap water before. I’ve been removing a good chunk of it during every waterchange and it does appear to be getting better.

I think it’s doing well. As your corals grow, they will compete better with the algae and tomini will get bigger and hungrier as well. I would try to understand what’s up with cuc so more snails can be added. Other than that, I think you are on your way.

Honestly, long term, I’d be more worried about the GSP taking over. Might want to segregate them on their own rock away from others. Good luck.

 

[Idoc]

Low nitrates and high phosphates are a recipe for cyano.

Start dosing some nitrates into the system or you are likely to have a dino explosion! I know from experience when my system wouldn't keep nitrates present (or phosphates for that matter)... it's been almost a year battle to erradicate them!

 

[Zachvet]

Low nitrates and high phosphates are a recipe for cyano.

Start dosing some nitrates into the system or you are likely to have a dino explosion! I know from experience when my system wouldn't keep nitrates present (or phosphates for that matter)... it's been almost a year battle to erradicate them!

How do you suggest I dose for nitrates?

 

[Subsea]

Use potassium nitrate. Both potassium & nitrate are major nutrients. When I had Ward Labs analyze Red Ogo the ratio of nitrogen to phosphate was 30:1, which was no surprise. However, I was surprised with 15:1 ratio of potassium to nitrogen.

 

[Idoc]

How do you suggest I dose for nitrates?

I use sodium nitrate from Loudwolf. I make up a mixture and then slowly add a couple millilitres daily until testing shows it staying around 5ppm nitrates. You'd have to experiment with how much to add depending on your tanks total volume... just do it slowly.

 

[FlowGod]

When I had cyano it helped when I increased my flow in my tank

 

[Zachvet]

When I had cyano it helped when I increased my flow in my tank

I saw your username responded and I thought that might be your suggestion lol. I think I could use a bit more flow in certain areas as one of my powerheads is going bad.