Red Slime Remover or Chemiclean

Take care of the problem leading to the cyano, It is not that hard to take care of. Cyano is doing you a favor and alerting you to a problem or a up coming larger problem, it is also absorbing those nutrients like phosphate and not allowing them to bind to your live rock or substrate.. Cyano is a bacteria and your reef needs bacteria and chemicals dont discriminate on what bacteria they kill... by learning how to cure cyno will help prepare you for other problems down the road.
 
Chemi-clean is an oxidizer, which works by increasing the level of dissolved oxygen in the water, limiting photosynthesis and strengthening aerobic bacteria. When using it, it's very important to keep the water flow strong, and have plenty of air (via protein skimmer, air stone, etc) in the aquarium. It does limit the photosynthesis of zoxanthellae algae within corals, but normally not enough, or long enough, to cause any damage. The lack of photosynthsis and competition from aerobic bacteria, causes the cyanobacteria to die off.

Red Slime Remover is an antibiotic. It kills the bacteria, but also kills beneficial bacteria. If you're between a rock and hard place with cyanobacteria, I would choose chemi-clean over red slime remover. Phosphate levels of .25 ppm are most likely fueling the outbreak. You will want to add either a GFO reactor to your tank, or something to keep phosphates down. Instead of either chemi-clean or red slime remover, I would try Brightwell Aquatics Phosphate E - Brightwell Aquatics - Phosphat-E, along with Pura Phosloc in either a HOB filter, or reactor. PURA PhosLock GFO Phosphate Removal Media.

This will kill the cyanobacteria naturally, without the need for chemicals, and remove the phosphates, so it doesn't keep coming back.
 
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Take care of the problem leading to the cyano, It is not that hard to take care of. Cyano is doing you a favor and alerting you to a problem or a up coming larger problem, it is also absorbing those nutrients like phosphate and not allowing them to bind to your live rock or substrate.. Cyano is a bacteria and your reef needs bacteria and chemicals dont discriminate on what bacteria they kill... by learning how to cure cyno will help prepare you for other problems down the road.

@shred5 I totally agree on what you are saying. I'm just still a little bit puzzled of what is the catalyst of my problem. I can tell you that Im always doing water changes every 2 weeks or monthly depending my levels, cleaning the filter every week, cleaning my aquarium walls just named. I been reading around and it seems that red slime hit everyone differently.
 
@shred5 I totally agree on what you are saying. I'm just still a little bit puzzled of what is the catalyst of my problem. I can tell you that Im always doing water changes every 2 weeks or monthly depending my levels, cleaning the filter every week, cleaning my aquarium walls just named. I been reading around and it seems that red slime hit everyone differently.


You need to find the source.
Most common places to start:
A tank that has not fully cylcled. In this case they are completely normal.
Tap water used for top off and saltwater changes.. If this aint taken care of you are just continually dumping more nutrients in the tank.. A good Reverse osmosis system with a D/I sections should help here.
Over feeding.
Over crowding.
Not having a good nutrient export... IE use a better skimmer or use gfo..
Bad live rock or base rock.. I have seen allot of dead rock being sold that is loaded with phosphates so much so I dont use it anymore. I used to tell people to use it and loved it but lately the rock does nothing but release phosphates.

Most of the people who have been in this hobby a long time do not recommend using any chemicals, we have seen to many people nuke their tanks or end up with a worse probelm down the road or even worse cyano problems because it will be reintroduced again.. It is extreemly common bacteria and almost everyone has it in their tanks even if they dont see it. So even if you use Erythromycin which I guarantee will kill cyno along with other strains of bacteria you will get cyno again unless the original problem is solved.

What do you thinks happenes when you kill cyno? It releases those nutrients back into the water.
 
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Cyanobacteria (red slime algae) is a sign of imbalance. Shred is right, something is causing it, and until you find out what and correct it, cyanobacteria will be a re-occurring problem. Your phosphates are high, and very high by some's standards. I noted some ways to reduce that. Also, check you flow. If there are areas that aren't getting flow, especially that could trap uneaten food or debris, this allows anaerobic bacteria to multiple and this can lead into a mat of cyanobacteria. When you say you are cleaning the filter, what type of filter do you have? Some filters require monthly media changes, but you shouldn't have to "clean" the filter on a regular basis. If you could, list your aquarium's equipment specs.

As shred mentioned, once the cyanobacteria is gone, the nutrients fueling it are still present. Something else will step up and use the nutrients the cyano was, to grow.
 
Chemi-clean is an oxidizer, which works by increasing the level of dissolved oxygen in the water, limiting photosynthesis and strengthening aerobic bacteria. When using it, it's very important to keep the water flow strong, and have plenty of air (via protein skimmer, air stone, etc) in the aquarium. It does limit the photosynthesis of zoxanthellae algae within corals, but normally not enough, or long enough, to cause any damage. The lack of photosynthsis and competition from aerobic bacteria, causes the cyanobacteria to die off.

Red Slime Remover is an antibiotic. It kills the bacteria, but also kills beneficial bacteria. If you're between a rock and hard place with cyanobacteria, I would choose chemi-clean over red slime remover. Phosphate levels of .25 ppm are most likely fueling the outbreak. You will want to add either a GFO reactor to your tank, or something to keep phosphates down. Instead of either chemi-clean or red slime remover, I would try Brightwell Aquatics Phosphate E - Brightwell Aquatics - Phosphat-E, along with Pura Phosloc in either a HOB filter, or reactor. PURA PhosLock GFO Phosphate Removal Media.

This will kill the cyanobacteria naturally, without the need for chemicals, and remove the phosphates, so it doesn't keep coming back.

@reeffirstaid That's mad info right there. Thank you so much :) . I'm going to work in getting a GFO reactor as well Im going to check the products that you recommended, cuz my phosguard bag is not doing the job.
 
You need to find the source.
Most common places to start:
A tank that has not fully cylcled. In this case they are completely normal.
Tap water used for top off and saltwater changes.. If this aint taken care of you are just continually dumping more nutrients in the tank.. A good Reverse osmosis system with a D/I sections should help here.
Over feeding.
Over crowding.
Not having a good nutrient export... IE use a better skimmer or use gfo..
Bad live rock or base rock.. I have seen allot of dead rock being sold that is loaded with phosphates so much so I dont use it anymore. I used to tell people to use it and loved it but lately the rock does nothing but release phosphates.

Most of the people who have been in this hobby a long time do not recommend using any chemicals, we have seen to many people nuke their tanks or end up with a worse probelm down the road or even worse cyano problems because it will be reintroduced again.. It is extreemly common bacteria and almost everyone has it in their tanks even if they dont see it. So even if you use Erythromycin which I guarantee will kill cyno along with other strains of bacteria you will get cyno again unless the original problem is solved.

What do you thinks happenes when you kill cyno? It releases those nutrients back into the water.

@shred5 I'm thinking that one of the reason like said could be because is that my aquarium is too new, plus I don't have a GFO unit on my tank. I got a bag of phosguard in my aquarium but it seems that is not doing the job well.
 
赤泥:书呆子:是因为真菌失衡赤泥的产生,赤泥本身就是一种细菌膜,
我隔离你,你正在使用的tds,如果超过10,所以请使用ro机的试水,
而你不知道有足够的蛋白质分离器输出,需要更多的输出,
而你平时大量饲养,没有足够的水,光线是不够的,
而你已经水石没有一个很好的,导致发生,
大量的红泥去除方法,通常用于:
每100升水,采用了先锋6胶囊粉末,在汽缸,三天后,在50%的水,
加入硝化细菌后,活性炭,在30%每4天水,每次换水补充消化细菌,共五次,活性炭棒改为3个月,改每月一次..
 
Chemi-clean is an oxidizer, which works by increasing the level of dissolved oxygen in the water, limiting photosynthesis and strengthening aerobic bacteria. When using it, it's very important to keep the water flow strong, and have plenty of air (via protein skimmer, air stone, etc) in the aquarium. It does limit the photosynthesis of zoxanthellae algae within corals, but normally not enough, or long enough, to cause any damage. The lack of photosynthsis and competition from aerobic bacteria, causes the cyanobacteria to die off.

Red Slime Remover is an antibiotic. It kills the bacteria, but also kills beneficial bacteria. If you're between a rock and hard place with cyanobacteria, I would choose chemi-clean over red slime remover. Phosphate levels of .25 ppm are most likely fueling the outbreak. You will want to add either a GFO reactor to your tank, or something to keep phosphates down. Instead of either chemi-clean or red slime remover, I would try Brightwell Aquatics Phosphate E - Brightwell Aquatics - Phosphat-E, along with Pura Phosloc in either a HOB filter, or reactor. PURA PhosLock GFO Phosphate Removal Media.

This will kill the cyanobacteria naturally, without the need for chemicals, and remove the phosphates, so it doesn't keep coming back.

@reeffirstaid thank you for your recommendation. I'm going to order some Brightwell Phosphate-E online today. im always down to try something that kills cyanobacteria naturally. I just go a question Im already using Phosguard in a media bag, do you think that phosguard will do the job the same way as Phoslock? Also, Do you have any recommendation GFO reactors
 
I prefer Microbe-lift Special Blend over both of these products.

@jackson6745 So Microbe-lift is bacteria in a can, Am I right! Do you know by any chance how microbe-lift affect the living creatures already establish in a tank? I found some info on the internet and the only thing that I see is that the product is use in new tanks to accelerate the cycle on them.
 
Yep, it's a bottled bacteria that smells like rotten eggs. It helps lower nutrients and improves water clarity. I use it indefinitely in my reef and don't have cyano despite heavy feedings and a very heavy bio-load. Lots of guys have used this product effectively to rid their tanks of cyano.In the end you are left with a more mature reef capable of handling a larger bio-load.
 

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