Redish brown Algae all over tank help zero phosphate

[Fredrxn]

Hello guys...

Haveing trouble with the tank its been up for about 3 months...I have redish brown algea that has air bubbles in it....the dry rock is starting to get green algea to.....is this part of the ugly stage will it go away on its own or should I try to remove it.....
Filter floss is clogging up every day with redish brown algea smells really bad ....I been dosing nitrates and phosphate I can't get phosphate to go above zero...here's a video and a few pics...thanks in advance


Nitrate 2.10
Phos zero
Salt lvl 1.025
Calcium 416
Kh 7.10

Tested with hanna checkers

 

[Timfish]

For starters I'd stop dosing anything and just start dropping in some pellets for the cleaner shrimp. I'd also get some hermits or emerald or A sally lightfoot crab mostly just to add some additional life to the tank. I would also get some quality maricultured live rock, be sure to get it air shipped or shipped overnight to minimize dieoff. Besides microbuial stuff that can't be cultured like nitrifying bugs there's cryptic sponges that remove hydrophyllic stuff as well as the hydrophobic stuff skimmers remove but do do it 1000X faster than the bacterioplankton skimmers remove. To help understand the importance of establishing healthy microbial populations see AquaBiomics article here. I would also recommend Forest ROhwer's "Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas". These 4 videos I think you might find informative.

Forest Rohwer "Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas"

Changing Seas - Mysterious Microbes

Nitrogen cycling in hte coral holobiont

Richard Ross What's up with phosphate"

 

[Fredrxn]

For starters I'd stop dosing anything and just start dropping in some pellets for the cleaner shrimp. I'd also get some hermits or emerald or A sally lightfoot crab mostly just to add some additional life to the tank. I would also get some quality maricultured live rock, be sure to get it air shipped or shipped overnight to minimize dieoff. Besides microbuial stuff that can't be cultured like nitrifying bugs there's cryptic sponges that remove hydrophyllic stuff as well as the hydrophobic stuff skimmers remove but do do it 1000X faster than the bacterioplankton skimmers remove. To help understand the importance of establishing healthy microbial populations see AquaBiomics article here. I would also recommend Forest ROhwer's "Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas".

I have 4 fish in tank

 

[Fredrxn]

For starters I'd stop dosing anything and just start dropping in some pellets for the cleaner shrimp. I'd also get some hermits or emerald or A sally lightfoot crab mostly just to add some additional life to the tank. I would also get some quality maricultured live rock, be sure to get it air shipped or shipped overnight to minimize dieoff. Besides microbuial stuff that can't be cultured like nitrifying bugs there's cryptic sponges that remove hydrophyllic stuff as well as the hydrophobic stuff skimmers remove but do do it 1000X faster than the bacterioplankton skimmers remove. To help understand the importance of establishing healthy microbial populations see AquaBiomics article here. I would also recommend Forest ROhwer's "Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas". These 4 videos I think you might find informative.

Forest Rohwer "Coral Reefs in the Microbial Seas"

Changing Seas - Mysterious Microbes

Nitrogen cycling in hte coral holobiont

Richard Ross What's up with phosphate"

Ok thanks

 

[vetteguy53081]

Its cyano. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week period, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Timfish]

Excellent! I didn't see any in your pics. Fish poop is a lot better than dosing just nitrate and phosphate. I would be feeding them at least several times a day. If it helps I sometimes use these techniques to remove algae when doing water changes.

 

[Fredrxn]

Its cyano. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week period, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Ok

 

[Fredrxn]

Its cyano. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week period, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

What bacteria do you recommend